My homebrew tastes of homebrew - How to fix

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Rumpole_Stiltskin

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It's my secondtime trying to brew beer from off the shelf cans.

Tried once before about 20 years agoand thought I'd give it another shot.

Checked the gravity today and it's going to need a few more days I think.

Had a sup from the trial tube and like 20 years ago it's got what I can only describe as a homebrew taste/twang.


Any ideas as to how to get rid of this taste? What am I doing wrong?
 
There are a few things it could be, likely other members will know of a few others.

First, I always found the cheap single can kits had a bit of a homebrew taste. The kits around the £25 price tag are well worth the extra money as they can taste really great.

If you are adding sugar it is much better to add proper brewing sugar instead of white cane sugar. It is a little more expensive but again well worth it.

Dont use tap water. Either bottled water or use a good water filter, otherwise the chlorine will give a chemical taste. If you must use tap water then let it sit for a day before adding to the bucket.
 
Interestingly, I came across this post about pouring boiling water on the hopped malt possibly causing the twang:
https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/...g-summer-ale-review.23336/page-12#post-706712

For my next brew, I'll be doing what this user says and use bottled water at 65 degrees and see if that helps with the dressed twang

I tried that, it didn't help in the slightest.

Best way to avoid kit twang (I refuse to call it homebrew twang for a reason...)? Don't use kits. Even a Youngs AIPA kit I did had the dreaded twang, and by the time it faded so had the dry hop. Only kit I enjoyed was a Wilkos Golden Ale 1 can that I made with DME and a nice dry hop of 25g Falconers Flight, 25g Citra and 25g Amarillo hop pellets (the tea bag ones from CML). Given that you NEVER get kit twang in all grain, the blame can be squarely placed upon the liquid malt extract.
 
I personally believe that with a good cleaning & sterilising, bottled water, re hydrating yeast, steady brewing temperature & staying within that yeast temperature range, 2-4 weeks in the FV and 1 - 2 months conditioning the twang is very hard to detect, in some cases its gone altogether (i find 1-2 weeks in a cold fridge at the end helps)

Although it might seem obvious but pick a high quality kit with a proper amount of yeast (10-20g) such as the beerworks kits: https://www.lovebrewing.co.uk/beer/kits/beerworks-craft-brewery-series/
 
I think my own efforts have improved on this front. I've done the following: used half/half bottled & tap water (water here is pretty good though). I always add cold water to the extract first, then some hot to dissolve (ie never boiling water first) & finally I've tried partial mash + single can kit. That replaces (most of) the sugar that would normally be added. I think the latter has had the most significant effect. Personally, I don't mind it tasting "home made" (though it's home fermented really, rather than home made).

I suspect I'll be on to BIAB before long. Just need a bigger pot...
 
I tried 3/4 kits and they always had that 'taste', could be my brewing skills of course. Decided to give AG 1 go and give up if it still tasted rubbish. I started with a small (5L) batch, all you need is a big pan, fine sieve 1Kg of marris otter (£1-2) small bag of hops (£3-5) and some brewing yeast (£2-3). First attempt produced 4L of really nice beer and I haven't looked back since.
 
Interestingly, I came across this post about pouring boiling water on the hopped malt possibly causing the twang:
https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/...g-summer-ale-review.23336/page-12#post-706712

For my next brew, I'll be doing what this user says and use bottled water at 65 degrees and see if that helps with the dressed twang

Very interesting
I've always thought how harsh this would be and what harm this could do to the wort (hot side aeration possibly?)
And Richard makes some valid points also
Maybe with all these better practices it could put this twang business to bed once and for all

I did notice the last post about once you've done all grain you never look back but when time isn't on you're side weekends then kit brewing is the'next best thing

Bought the IPA kit from b&m last Sunday and will be taking all of these better practices on board

So 1)bottled or treated'tap water (AMS)
2) 65c Water added to extract for mixing
3) Rehydrate yeast
4) Good solid'temp control
5) 3 week in primary
6) 2 weeks warm and 2 cold conditioning time

(Maybe replacing'the dextrose'for a tin of holland'and barret malt that's been in the cupboard for a few months)

I'll keep this post updated to hopefully prove homebrew doesn't have to taste like homebrew (..with kits anyway)
 
Bought the IPA kit from b&m last Sunday
Will you do a review when it's ready? I'll probably get one just out of interest.

Maybe replacing'the dextrose'for a tin of holland'and barret malt that's been in the cupboard for a few months
Loads of people think old extract is a creator of Le Twang so that could jinx things.
 
Will you do a review when it's ready? I'll probably get one just out of interest.


Loads of people think old extract is a creator of Le Twang so that could jinx things.
Yes review it after a month in the bottle
I'll stick with the dextrose that's provided then as I'd want to give the most accurate account
 
In my experience 4 months in the bottle will get rid of it, if it can be got rid of depending on the kit. I've never PB'd or kegged so can't comment on that type of storage. I think the age of the kit may well be a factor as well, I brewed a Muntons Traditional Bitter that I only realised was a year out of date after I'd emptied it into the FV (refund for kit and BE). The strength of the beer can also be a factor, stronger beers will take a lot longer to condition to their best taste. I bottled the Muntons Trad.Bitter on 27/02/18 and it's only coming into its own now.
 
Also a stable fermentation temp is a very important thing and I noticed once I was able to get a stable, controllable fermentation chamber a.k.a a fridge with an inkbird controller and heat mat I noticeda big improvement over 'twang' and what I termed as a home brwe flavour. Happy yeast = happy brewer!
 
When I used to do kits I found that with 1 can kits they didn't have the dreaded twang if I made them up to 4 gallons instead of 5 (thus increasing the flavour) and only using half a kilo of white sugar instead of a kilo.
I never found 2 can kits very good.
Switch to BIAB ASAP and actually get beer that tastes as good as or even better than pub beer.
 
Many people brew under fairly uncontrolled conditions and then try and drink the brew well before it's had time to mature and condition. The OP states ...

Had a sup from the trial tube and like 20 years ago it's got what I can only describe as a homebrew taste/twang.

Get a grip people!

The only reason I taste the FG sample (after a minimum of two weeks fermenting) is to ensure that it isn't "off" (i.e. it doesn't taste like vinegar or smell of old socks) before I bottle or keg the brew.

At this stage, it may give an indication of future delights but it is in no way a time to make a decision on what the brew will be like after another month of carbonating and conditioning.

My advice is therefore "Wait at least a month and then taste it." :thumb:
 
Interestingly, I came across this post about pouring boiling water on the hopped malt possibly causing the twang:
https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/...g-summer-ale-review.23336/page-12#post-706712

For my next brew, I'll be doing what this user says and use bottled water at 65 degrees and see if that helps with the dressed twang

About boiling water causing a twang, hasn't the lme already been boiled to reduce it to lme from wort? - if so how would it being diluted with boiling water cause a twang unless... its the boiling water contacting the lining of the can/ plastic pouch which may not be foodsafe at 100 degrees?
 
The twang comes with the kit... ought to be included in the list of ingredients. It's nothing to do with maturation time - I'm already well stuck into a crystal clear pale bottled 3 days ago; zero hint of the twang. I've never had the twang in 35 years of AG, but the odd kit I've made for some zany reason or another have ALL had it to some degree. So there's the answer, take it or leave it.
 
About boiling water causing a twang, hasn't the lme already been boiled to reduce it to lme from wort? - if so how would it being diluted with boiling water cause a twang unless... its the boiling water contacting the lining of the can/ plastic pouch which may not be foodsafe at 100 degrees?
Things like this are normally boiled at negative pressure so it doesn't need as much heat, but I still think its unlikely boiling water causes it. There are lots of possible off flavours but I think the main one is just as gunge said just kits.
 
Things like this are normally boiled at negative pressure so it doesn't need as much heat, but I still think its unlikely boiling water causes it. There are lots of possible off flavours but I think the main one is just as gunge said just kits.
I think DoJ was referring to the homebrewer's usual method of extracting (pun retrospectively intended ;) ) every last drop from the tin by rinsing with boiling water, not the production method.
Although, surely if that were the reason, manufacturers would warn against such practise rather than encourage it in their instructions? Then again, they say to bottle after a few days and drink after 2 weeks, so maybe I've answered my own question...
 

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