Muntons Flagship Hazy IPA

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Well I've just had the first pint, and it was worth the wait. Smells great, full of flavour. Best one I've done so far, worth the extra money. Will definitely do this again.
Did you use the kit yeast or verdant yeast
Can’t decide 🤪
 
Fair play seen a few use the verdant yeast and I have a couple of packs so tempted but from what it sounds like it’s banging with the yeast supplied 👍
 
I’ve just finished my Hazy, made with the yeast in the kit. Very enjoyable from first to last pint. Pressure fermented though so much of the yeast character would be masked.
I will likely pressure ferment
Did you add pressure from start or let build or no pressure for 48hrs to get some character then build to 10psi?
 
Yes did this bad boy used the so4 kit yeast fermented at 21c in ferm fridge kegged 2/3 with 1/3 in bottles started OG 1046 finished FG 1009 used the filter sock but had a firm thick yeast cake did not clog preferred the kegged beer to the bottled very much like Brewdog / cloudwater
9.9/10 best kit i've made without pimping. I made this one inline with instructions I saw the You tube vids and agree with the Partridge Bros pricy for a kit but well worth the money
 
Yes did this bad boy used the so4 kit yeast fermented at 21c in ferm fridge kegged 2/3 with 1/3 in bottles started OG 1046 finished FG 1009 used the filter sock but had a firm thick yeast cake did not clog preferred the kegged beer to the bottled very much like Brewdog / cloudwater
9.9/10 best kit i've made without pimping. I made this one inline with instructions I saw the You tube vids and agree with the Partridge Bros pricy for a kit but well worth the money
I think the extra money is well worth it too. Even using carbonation drops , it came in at 95p a 500 ml bottle. If I got served this in a pub, I would be more then happy .
 
I bottled this on Monday. ABV came out at 5%. I used the 1.2kg LME. Will be ready mid January in time for my birthday😋 Hoping it's going to be like Northern Monk's Faith beer which is so good on draft in their Leeds brewery.
 
Ok so brewed this a few months ago, fermenting at 20 deg for 3 weeks.
then legged and force carbed.
im about 1/2 way through the corny and it is beginning to clear.
I used kit yeast.
it’s good. But I’d say the tiny rebel cwtch is better. Though that might just be my taste preference. I’m on my 4th cwtch kit.
 
Ok so brewed this a few months ago, fermenting at 20 deg for 3 weeks.
then legged and force carbed.
im about 1/2 way through the corny and it is beginning to clear.
I used kit yeast.
it’s good. But I’d say the tiny rebel cwtch is better. Though that might just be my taste preference. I’m on my 4th cwtch kit.
I'll try one of these next time. Thanks for the tip 😜
 
Can I use a stainless steel mesh dry hop can instead of tipping the pellets in at the start and also at the end per the kit instructions? I want to avoid clogging my auto-syphon even though the kit comes with a filter bag. Also, other threads mention that hazy IPAs oxidise very quickly so should I bottle straight from primary with carb drops? I have batch primed my last 4 kits with good results but I'm wondering if this would increase the risk of oxidation for this kit.
 
Can I use a stainless steel mesh dry hop can instead of tipping the pellets in at the start and also at the end per the kit instructions? I want to avoid clogging my auto-syphon even though the kit comes with a filter bag. Also, other threads mention that hazy IPAs oxidise very quickly so should I bottle straight from primary with carb drops? I have batch primed my last 4 kits with good results but I'm wondering if this would increase the risk of oxidation for this kit.

This is something I often ponder. I always siphon from FV to barrel and then from barrel to bottles, yet I don't batch prime - I prefer to use a sugar stick in each bottle. The only reasons I do this is because (1) I put a mesh bag over the end of the tube into the barrel to catch all of the debris (and there's usually quite a lot) and (2) I don't have a tap on my FV so can't use my Little Bottler which I wouldn't be without. This gives me cleaner beer in the bottle, but no matter how careful I am, it always strikes me that I must be adding oxygen to the beer when siphoning to the barrel. I try and gently flow the beer down the inside of the barrel by tilting it at an angle, but there's inevitably some splashing.

I'd be really interested to know how much the experienced brewers on here think this could lead to oxidation - and possibly, the 'twang'.
 
Can I use a stainless steel mesh dry hop can instead of tipping the pellets in at the start and also at the end per the kit instructions? I want to avoid clogging my auto-syphon even though the kit comes with a filter bag. Also, other threads mention that hazy IPAs oxidise very quickly so should I bottle straight from primary with carb drops? I have batch primed my last 4 kits with good results but I'm wondering if this would increase the risk of oxidation for this kit.

I normally use a muslin bag or a SS hop cannister as you mention. With this brew, I just chucked the hops straight in the FV as the instructions suggest. I then used my auto-syphon with the supplied filter sleeve to transfer to my secondaryFV and bulk primed with 100g of dextrose. I then used to little bottler to bottle the lot with absolutely no issues.

I initially suspected I'd suffered some oxidisation as the beer looked darker than I expected. Having since seen other people's results, I think I was wrong. It certainly tasted great and extremely hoppy. I think it's probably the best kit I've done...
 
I try and gently flow the beer down the inside of the barrel by tilting it at an angle, but there's inevitably some splashing.
Allowing the beer to follow down the side spreads the beer out into a thin film, which increases surface area and will (theoretically) also increase the chances of oxidisation (this is how I was taught to decant wine in order to maximize oxidisation!). I have no idea whether this is better or worse than splashing though. 🤷‍♂️
 
Can I use a stainless steel mesh dry hop can instead of tipping the pellets in at the start and also at the end per the kit instructions? I want to avoid clogging my auto-syphon even though the kit comes with a filter bag. Also, other threads mention that hazy IPAs oxidise very quickly so should I bottle straight from primary with carb drops? I have batch primed my last 4 kits with good results but I'm wondering if this would increase the risk of oxidation for this kit.
I made this kit as per the instructions. At bottling, my routine is to add batch priming sugar solution to 2nd fv, siphon from primary fv as carefully as possible. I put one of the wire cages that come on champagne bottles inside the hop sock. This prevents the sock being drawn in towards the siphon and prevents it clogging. Fill into PET bottles and squeeze as much headspace air out b4 tightening caps. Very pleased with results and as a number of others have commented, possibly the best kit i have made and i have done most Festival and Youngs kits plus a good few Mangrove Jacks.
 
Thanks all for the advice. Started the kit today but over-chilled the wort, just waiting for it to hit 18°C before pitching. I'm going to use the hop can as I'm a lazy so & so and the advice has given me the confidence to stick with batch priming. Cheers!
 
Thanks all for the advice. Started the kit today but over-chilled the wort, just waiting for it to hit 18°C before pitching. I'm going to use the hop can as I'm a lazy so & so and the advice has given me the confidence to stick with batch priming. Cheers!
If you don't have a heater, you can point a desk fan at your fermenter and it'll help it warm up a bit quicker.
 
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