Mold inside bottle

[dwhite60]

Would be interesting to put a time lapse camera on those and see what they do. Could just be particulate in the beer. Have you tried one? Lot's of moldy food is consumed in the world, a lot of it made intentionally.

I'd give it a try and see how it tastes. I would take a couple of the worst ones and put them somewhere I could check them every couple days to see if this stuff evolves.

 

[globe11123]

Would be interesting to put a time lapse camera on those and see what they do. Could just be particulate in the beer. Have you tried one? Lot's of moldy food is consumed in the world, a lot of it made intentionally.

I'd give it a try and see how it tastes. I would take a couple of the worst ones and put them somewhere I could check them every couple days to see if this stuff evolves.

I've left these bottles sit awhile because I used sugar with that batch as a mouse got at the brew enhancer

Was a very sharp taste 2 weeks in, not so much now but waiting for that to go down. I've separated two from that batch so far that have the white dots.

Might be down to me not sterilizing the bottles as well? They were rinsed and left to sit in the summerhouse then on the day of bottling swirled sanitizer in them. (I've got a bottle rinser now) Thinking about getting a bottle tree then I can rinse them after use, hang em then on the day of bottling use the bottle rinser with sanitizer.

Alot of these bottles have condensation in them also.

Only 2 out of the batch have that dots from what I could see.

 

[BrewMeHappy]

It's hard to say. I think I would put them to one side as dewhite60 says and see if gets worse. In the interim I'd start on the others and see if they taste ok.

 

[dwhite60]

Condensation in the bottles isn't a problem at all. It happens. Would probably be less with a smaller airspace. Next time.

I clean my bottles a day or two before bottling usually with just a twenty minute soak in the "One-Step" no rinse cleaner/sanitizer I use. Bottling day they get a quick swirl of sanitizer. You can overthink this stuff. Interesting in human nature that it's easier to think it's screwed up rather than think it's probably okay. I've learned to always expect the best, I'm rarely disappointed!

 

[Dutto]

Hmmm ... that looks as if it could be a bit nasty!

Personally, I would:

• Open a bottle and smell it.
• If it smelled okay then I would taste it.
• If it tasted okay I would drink it.
• If I didn't have any stomach cramps or extra trips to the toilet in the next 24 hours I would carry on and drink the lot as soon as possible.

If the bottle fails the smell, taste or toilet test then I would bin the ones with the making of a pellicle on the top and drink the rest as soon as possible (assuming that they pass all elements of the Test).

I had a really greasy pellicle (see photograph) after Dry Hopping. I bottled the brew as it tasted okay but drank it quickly "just in case"; with the exception of a single bottle that I forgot and took over to France and embarrassingly presented to @An Ankoù !!! I was quickly told that it tasted terrible. Mea culpa!

 

[An Ankoù]

I think the problem is entirely due to headspace. It's massive. Even if your bottles are sterile, you are likely to pick up airborne infections during the beer transfer: acetobacter, spores from moulds on overripe fruit etc. Even if you don't, your beer is going to be oxidised.
I once bottled a beer on which a white pellicule had formed and with a distinct whiff of vinegar although no vinegar taste was discernable in the beer. Leaving a minimal headspace, the bacteria is starved of oxygen and eventually dies during conditioning. But with your headspace, it would have thrived and tainted the beer. Same with moulds, I imagine. They need air to breath and you're giving it to them.
Cider nearly always grows a pellicule as it's well nigh impossible to get all the wild stuff off the apples before crushing and pressing them.

 

[globe11123]

Thanks for the info guys. When it comes to bottle is it OK to let the sit with the beer in until all are filled up?

Or should you put sugar in all the bottles then cap them as soon as they are filled?

Bottle cleaning & head space is definitely achieved with my newest batch. Just hope it turns out decent!

 

[An Ankoù]

Thanks for the info guys. When it comes to bottle is it OK to let the sit with the beer in until all are filled up?

Or should you put sugar in all the bottles then cap them as soon as they are filled?

Bottle cleaning & head space is definitely achieve with my newest batch.

Fill, leaving half an inch to an inch headspace, place the cap on the filled bottle and continue filling and placing caps, then crimp all the caps down.
Just found this on Google:
Mold requires water, food, and oxygen to grow. It also requires an environment with a temperature it can survive. While mold cannot spread without these conditions, its spores may survive in a dormant state ue air is rntil conditions are suitable. ... Mold grows best between 77° F and 86° F, especially if the air is humid.
Was also thinking that the conditions in a modern brewery are quite different to those in our kitchens or sheds. The air would be relatively clean in a brewery as nothing goes on except brewing, no food storage, no pots of tulip bulbs, no hams or pheasants hanging up, bins of food waste, etc etc.

 

[globe11123]

Fill, leaving half an inch to an inch headspace, place the cap on the filled bottle and continue filling and placing caps, then crimp all the caps down.
Just found this on Google:
Mold requires water, food, and oxygen to grow. It also requires an environment with a temperature it can survive. While mold cannot spread without these conditions, its spores may survive in a dormant state ue air is rntil conditions are suitable. ... Mold grows best between 77° F and 86° F, especially if the air is humid.
Was also thinking that the conditions in a modern brewery are quite different to those in our kitchens or sheds. The air would be relatively clean in a brewery as nothing goes on except brewing, no food storage, no pots of tulip bulbs, no hams or pheasants hanging up, bins of food waste, etc etc.

Would it matter that I keep the bottles in a room around 20-22C for the whole time?

 

[An Ankoù]

Would it matter that I keep the bottles in a room around 20-22C for the whole time?

No, that should be fine. Most beers are conditioned lower than that, around 15C, but Duvel conditions at around that temperature. Once the oxygen in the headspace is gone, it's gone. The yeast in the beer should take the lions share of it. You can get oxygen scavenging caps, but I've never noticed any difference in the beer.

 

[globe11123]

I think I might invest in a second bucket for the next batch with a tap. So priming and bottling is easier. Is there anything I can change with my current process to get the best product I can?

I have been using a single FV, usually waiting 10-12 days before bottling. Then siphoning into bottles and measuring out the sugar.

 

[dwhite60]

They make bottle fillers. Tube that has a little spring valve on the end. You connect it to your siphon hose.

Press the valve on the bottom of the bottle and beer flows. When it's level with the top lift the filler to close the valve. When you remove the filler your fluid is at the correct height in the neck.

Google is your friend.

 

[Ale House Rock]

I think I might invest in a second bucket for the next batch with a tap. So priming and bottling is easier. Is there anything I can change with my current process to get the best product I can?

I have been using a single FV, usually waiting 10-12 days before bottling. Then siphoning into bottles and measuring out the sugar.

A second bucket with a tap and a filling wand would be a good investment. You might also want to weigh up the pros and cons of batch priming. Fwiw, i only
ever added sugar to individual bottles once. Batch primed ever since.

 

[globe11123]

Got myself a second bucket with tap, filling wand and a bottle tree

What techniques can I use to have less sediment in my next batch? First batch I did there was quite alot, then newest batch not as much but still I have to waste the bottom of the beer because I'm not sure if the sediment agrees with me

 

[Dutto]

Cold Crash the brew to 6*C to 10*C for a couple of days before bottling.

Don't worry about sediment because:

1. If you leave the brew to Condition for a few weeks it will stay at the bottom of the bottle.
2. Some brews actually recommend that you "roll the bottle" before pouring.
3. After a few more sessions your guts will not only get used to the presence of yeast they will demand it to keep you "regular".

Enjoy!

 

[globe11123]

Cold Crash the brew to 6*C to 10*C for a couple of days before bottling.

Don't worry about sediment because:

1. If you leave the brew to Condition for a few weeks it will stay at the bottom of the bottle.
2. Some brews actually recommend that you "roll the bottle" before pouring.
3. After a few more sessions your guts will not only get used to the presence of yeast they will demand it to keep you "regular".

Enjoy!

Thank you for your wisdom feeling a bit dodgy today, been like this a few times over the last few weeks but don't want to blame the home brew! My new passion!

 

[dwhite60]

Less sediment can be achieved by using a yeast that is more flocculant. Flocculation is how the yeast stick together, settle out, and compact in the bottom of whatever vessel it's in. Tighter it packs in the bottom of your fermenter the harder it is to stir up when bottling. Same goes for what's in the bottom of the bottle.

S-04 is pretty good. Coopers yeast in the gold satchel is great. Let your primary sit for two weeks before bottling. Dry hopping is, to me, asking for issues unless they're in a bag of some sort.

 

[globe11123]

Less sediment can be achieved by using a yeast that is more flocculant. Flocculation is how the yeast stick together, settle out, and compact in the bottom of whatever vessel it's in. Tighter it packs in the bottom of your fermenter the harder it is to stir up when bottling. Same goes for what's in the bottom of the bottle.

S-04 is pretty good. Coopers yeast in the gold satchel is great. Let your primary sit for two weeks before bottling. Dry hopping is, to me, asking for issues unless they're in a bag of some sort.

I've just been using the yeast given in the kits. But yeah I noticed my second batch which is a coopers Canadian blonde larger has very little sediment in it and is very clear! Going to start a Coopers Irish Stout tomorrow

I don't think I'm ready yet to delve into dry hopping but that's somewhere I want to get too!