Mash/sparge volumes (preferably for Brewdevil/Brewmonk/Klarstein/Hopcat)

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MickDundee

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I took delivery of a lovely shiny Brew Devil this week (double discount via Angel Homebrew) and, fingers crossed, my first brew day will be tomorrow (not decided what yet, probably either a Celeia hopped English pale or a pale lager).

In the past I’ve always just winged my mash and sparge volumes - mash with as much as will fit in the boiler, remove the bag then after squeezing work out how much sparge water I need to make the pre-boil up to around 30L and add a litre or so on.

However now I’m in an all in one system (and will be sparging over the boiler with less visibility over how much liquor I have), I should probably put more thought into it. I’ve never really thought about things like grain absorption etc.

What kind of volumes do others mash and sparge with? Approx 3L per kilo of mash liquid seems to be the norm but what about sparge water?
 
I took delivery of a lovely shiny Brew Devil this week (double discount via Angel Homebrew) and, fingers crossed, my first brew day will be tomorrow (not decided what yet, probably either a Celeia hopped English pale or a pale lager).

In the past I’ve always just winged my mash and sparge volumes - mash with as much as will fit in the boiler, remove the bag then after squeezing work out how much sparge water I need to make the pre-boil up to around 30L and add a litre or so on.

However now I’m in an all in one system (and will be sparging over the boiler with less visibility over how much liquor I have), I should probably put more thought into it. I’ve never really thought about things like grain absorption etc.

What kind of volumes do others mash and sparge with? Approx 3L per kilo of mash liquid seems to be the norm but what about sparge water?
I have looked at getting one. I know that they have a Facebook group with all the details on volumes and setting up the controls
 
What price did you get the 30 litre for if you don't mind me asking
£285 including delivery.

It was reduced to £299 on Angel Homebrew (https://www.angelhomebrew.co.uk/en/...html#/73-wort_chiller-none/76-hop_spider-none) and then they were offering 10% off everything with the discount code Jan10 until yesterday which took it down to £270, and postage was £15.

Just been on the website and I believe that: 1) they are still promoting the discount code, and 2) there’s only one left in stock so be quick if you’re interested!
 
Hi Mick use 19ltr to mash in and around 12 ltrs for sparging to get 28ltr before boil off, I found that you are better with higher mash volumes on these all in one systems. Mine is the old Ace and have done 65 brews with it upto now and I love it I just have to re-calibrate my temp by 1 degree for more accuracy on each brew which is easy just press 2 buttons together and the the temp calibration comes up then press plus one yours maybe the same so just check your temps on the first brew to see how accurate it is
 
Hi Mick use 19ltr to mash in and around 12 ltrs for sparging to get 28ltr before boil off, I found that you are better with higher mash volumes on these all in one systems. Mine is the old Ace and have done 65 brews with it upto now and I love it I just have to re-calibrate my temp by 1 degree for more accuracy on each brew which is easy just press 2 buttons together and the the temp calibration comes up then press plus one yours maybe the same so just check your temps on the first brew to see how accurate it is
Thanks, I’ll use your volumes as a starter then and see how I get on.
 
Hi Mick also there is a opinion that these systems you should not use them at full power for long periods as 1. it can burn at the bottom and 2 it shortens the life of the heating elements, I use mine at a maximum of 1900 and I have got to 65 brews upto now so I think it does help. I relate it to anything that is run at full bore (car engines etc)all the time it is better to back it off for a longer life
 
I have 3 options 900w 1600 2500 I use the 900 for mash temp 2500 to bring to the boil then knock it back to 1600 to maintain a rolling boil
My old boiler is 1600w and I was looking forward to having a stronger element - I will do this
 
Hi Mick you could compromise and use a higher power to reach the boil then set it lower to maintain it I would think that should be ok I think it is where people are leaving it on full power during the boil. I use 1900 to reach the boil as it suits my style of brewing. I can do a mash of 45 mins a mash out of 10 mins and a 45 min boil and it takes me a total of approx 3 1/2 hours from start to finish. I then do no chill so it does shorten the brew day, in all I let it cool for 1/2 hour and then transfer to my FV for further cooling but thats just me I know a lot still use a chiller but it wastes water and adds time on in my opinion but just transpose your usual brewing method and I am sure with your experience you will find what suits. Good luck
 
Got my brew on just now, it’s sort of a user upper. 2.3kg of pale malt, 2.2kg of Europils and 200g of crystal. I’ve got 200g of 2017 Celeia leaf that I bought from someone who gave up brewing so I’m doing a single hop English pale with Liberty Bell Yeast. 9 mins left of my mash and everything has been smooth so far.
 
Let us know how the brewday ended Mick it sounds as if it is going good
Thanks to your tips I’ve hit just under 30L of wort on the boil which is superb. I’ve stuck the first hop addition in in an old grain bag, hoping I’ll be able to fish it out to add the next lot as I’m paranoid about blocking the pump. I’m excited to see what my efficiency is going to be because, previously, even after I bought my grain mill I’d only been hitting 60-65%.

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That is the same system as mine Mick albeit a updated version I think you can store recipes in yours. I think you will be surprised with the eff as I get no less than 70% ( do all my recipes to 70%)and usually a little higher depending on the recipe, You will now be able to fine tune to suit your method it is always great to get the first brew with a new system under the belt. The recirc should help the eff too
 
I’ve hit 70% efficiency, which I’m happy with. It’s an improvement on my BIAB efficiency at least. I’ve also based my efficiency on 20L in the fermenter and it actually looks like a lot more than I used to get so possibly I’ve got more than 70% or I used to get less than 65%. Either way I’ll need less grain.
 
HI Mick, I've just got a BrewMonk and have done two brews so far. Loving it.

I've been mashing with 19lt and sparging with 12lt - just fine. I'd comment that I have found mesh bags / hopsocks ineffective in retaining T90 pellets and have just ordered a hop spider.

Enjoy

Martin
 
I’ve hit 70% efficiency, which I’m happy with. It’s an improvement on my BIAB efficiency at least. I’ve also based my efficiency on 20L in the fermenter and it actually looks like a lot more than I used to get so possibly I’ve got more than 70% or I used to get less than 65%. Either way I’ll need less grain.

The consistency will be the big improvement for you I reckon. I noticed a big increase in the quality of my beer when I dialled in my numbers. Sounds so needy, but it's a lot of fun when you hit your numbers.
 
If you use a hop spider which I do stir it a couple or three times during the boil to stop especially pellet hops clogging together and stopping infusion. I know some have had problems with hop spiders and lower flavour from the hops but I have never noticed much difference with stirring them and all you would have to do if so is add slightly more hops. I think the problem with some is if you are doing big hop amounts in the boil I can understand but if you do a reasonable boil amount and a large dry hop you should be Ok
 
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