Leaking S30 Valve - and follow up(s)

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Wherrypuzzled

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Barrelled a Wherry about 3 weeks ago and when trying it last Friday after 3 pints it was glugging out (bottom tap). First time ever I have not had sucessful Sec Ferm to carbonate - must have simply leaked away

So I gassed it up (large CO2 bottle not the 8g things) and beer was passable but I could hear valve leaking and it seems to be coming up the center of the valve

I decided that this PB being old needed a refurb and because my 2 KKs were on large CO2 valves I bought a new 2" lid for this Barrel with a Valve to match them and a new Tap. I followed the sage wisdom on here and used PTFE and Vaseline where appropriate

Nothing I searched for on Forum seemed to be appropriate so I am wondering what the panel think ? The Valve is Stainless steel and came ready fitted to the 2" lid and was new. I read somewhere that I should tighen the Nut using 2 spanners so I did not crack the lid. The Valve does not have a Band on outside of PB but there is a hole which I should think is a pressure relief hole

So I am wondering if the internal valve rubber has blown off (should have Cable tidied it on as that was a great tip I was given) and what are my options please.

Should I open the barrel to fault find or does it need an exterior Band over that hole ? I am of the opinion that the gas is coming up the hole within the valve though. If I do open it up and find a fault should I go for another second Ferm ? Will the beer be any good if exposed to oxygen or ok if I minimise the time I have the lid off - and any other tips people have

I will certainly fix the inner rubber with a cable tie in future and indeed if this had not been a completely new Lid / Valve I would have done it there and then.

As usual many thnaks in advance. Just tried Barrel and completely flat anyway
 
Hello Wherry,

The stainless steel version of the valve is the same in operation as the brass version but is constructed slightly differently. Here’s a pic.

D747B880-18DD-4A41-95B3-80E5909DA55C.jpeg

First off, you are going to have to remove the cap to have a look for the problem.

Don’t put a rubber band round the stainless steel collar with a hole, the pressure release rubber is actually behind the collar.

A6BA2BCF-5C0A-44FB-8FA1-90AB277D5CA7.jpeg

If the pressure is coming out of the top of the valve then either you have blown the non-return rubber (pink in the pic) off its pin or the non-return rubber is too long and needs trimming back slightly (this is rare).

If the pressure seems to be coming from the hole in the stainless collar, you need to replace the pressure release seal.

I recently bought a new keg and replaced the pressure release rubber as part of my preparation of the keg. See below the slack one I removed (on a brand new keg!) as compared to the new one I am about to fit.

41A1AEF9-8577-4C6D-A1B4-A679BF45C60B.jpeg
 
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Wiping a finger of spit or soapy water (to create a film) across the end of the valve will show you if the leak is coming from the gas inlet hole, which is very unlikely in my experience. Hazlewood’s photo of the stretched pressure relief band happens all too often and is the most likely culprit. There were some yellow ones in the Hop Shop which I have gone over to, but the jury is still out on whether they are any better.
 
Thanks again HB -another comprehensive answer.

I will strip it down and change what may be "dodgy" and / or shorten the non return rubber

Will report back if / when I find anything but your opinion on a second carbonation. Would it be just a waste of time and produce a sweet tasting mess - so I should gas up instead ?

Cheers again and thanks to to CD - I will use that to see exactly where the "leak" is coming from
 
OK thanks both again... Probably go with reprime this time but only because I have tasted my next Barrel which is Nelsons Revenge and it is great

36 pints to see off before I need the Wherry again. 2 Admirals Revenge in pipeline too and I will swap to that permanently lol
 
Brains finally kicked in in Wherry household. I still had old lid with Pin Valve so sterilised it - and greased it - then got priming sugar melted and removed new lid - tipped in sugar - put on old lid. So open to air less that 5 seconds and hopefully none the worse for it

Turning to the new lid I could see nothing wrong. The Non return rubber still intact - the pressure release rubber looked as HBs photo above and Gasket was intact. I took the valve out from the lid and there are 2 very slight lumps on the Lid (I can attach a photo if needed) right next to the Valve hole one on each side.

So I dont know anything more as to cause of leak and will have to go with it again next time I use that barrel and see if it recurs. Only speculation is maybe I didnt tighten the Nut in Photo 2 tight enough as I was afraid of cracking the lid OR it was not tight enough to crush down the "lumps"
 
Eminently sensible terrym. Next time round I will leave longer time before Barrelling Beer. After all I was adding new lid and new Tap to "old" Barrel so it would have made sense to "prove it" before filling with Beer (doh)

I will get Mrs Wherry to listen for leaks next time before filling it as I have very slight tinnitus which doesnt bother me at all but isnt ideal for hearing such leaks - but the soapy water will help as well

I have posted Photo of the "lumps" on lid underside - and maybe I should sand them off as well ?

Thanks again - I have noted your "signature" too as that will come in handy !
 

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Footnote... After 12 hours there was already a second Ferm going on in the barrel so...

... where the barrel had been flat it was now slightly carbonated. Will just work on new lid prior to next beer going in there
 
Those two bumps are your problem without a doubt. A really sharp chisel should shift them if you know how to use one.
 
Ha ha - my DIY reputation goes before me. Nver mind Mrs Wherry will do the job once she sees me struggling

Cheers again
 
Sand them off, as you suggested. Easy to make things worse with a chisel, hence my word of caution!
 
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