King Keg not holding pressure but no apparent leak

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Yeah that could be a good investment. Save on c02 athumb..

On another note, I've been looking around and cant find a decisive answer, if anyone could point me to a decent thread that'd be amazing. There's a bit of mixed information on priming sugar amounts after cold crashing. Because I have a PB does it matter all that much?
I was going to add some c02 when I eventually rack it, then warm it up to add priming sugar and another squirt :confused.: The amount of sugar given to me in the kit is 100g, which in the calculators requires a temp. of 3.5degrees C to obtain 2.5v of c02. Im not too sure now. Is t 2.5 too much as I can add C02 when required to the PB?
I found this site useful
http://howtobrew.com/book/section-1/priming-and-bottling/priming-solutions
 
Yeah that could be a good investment. Save on c02 athumb..

On another note, I've been looking around and cant find a decisive answer, if anyone could point me to a decent thread that'd be amazing. There's a bit of mixed information on priming sugar amounts after cold crashing. Because I have a PB does it matter all that much?
I was going to add some c02 when I eventually rack it, then warm it up to add priming sugar and another squirt :confused.: The amount of sugar given to me in the kit is 100g, which in the calculators requires a temp. of 3.5degrees C to obtain 2.5v of c02. Im not too sure now. Is t 2.5 too much as I can add C02 when required to the PB?
I assume your fermentation had finished before you started the cold crash phase. If that is the case you should use the fermentation temperature in the priming calculation. At lower temperatures your beer is less than saturated with CO2.
However that really doesnt matter as far as a PB is concerned. You should only add about 90g of table sugar or equivalent or you start to pressure stress the PB.
And if you pneumatically test your PB please be extremely careful and pressurise really slowly. The stored energy in a PB pressurised with air only is considerable and if the PB fails under test the consequences could be serious.
 
I assume your fermentation had finished before you started the cold crash phase. If that is the case you should use the fermentation temperature in the priming calculation. At lower temperatures your beer is less than saturated with CO2.
However that really doesnt matter as far as a PB is concerned. You should only add about 90g of table sugar or equivalent or you start to pressure stress the PB.
Yeah it had finished fermentation.
What do you mean that it doesnt really matter to PB's?
My plan is to add the 100g of dextrose supplied with the kit when the PB warms up to 10deg C, as this is what the charts I've been looking at recommend. But Im open to experienced brewers knowledge.
 
And if you pneumatically test your PB please be extremely careful and pressurise really slowly. The stored energy in a PB pressurised with air only is considerable and if the PB fails under test the consequences could be serious.
Ive got a gauge fitted to it so should give me some warning, I hope acheers.
 
Yeah it had finished fermentation.
What do you mean that it doesnt really matter to PB's?
My plan is to add the 100g of dextrose supplied with the kit when the PB warms up to 10deg C, as this is what the charts I've been looking at recommend. But Im open to experienced brewers knowledge.
PBs are not designed for high pressure. They are usually limited to a maximum working pressure of 15psig some even lower at 10psig. Practically speaking that means if you are using priming sugar it is unwise to add more than about 90g table sugar (or just under 100g dextrose) or you will start to pressure stress the PB. In any case more than that unless you have a fancy tap you will initially be dispensing mostly foam. Even more and you will hopefully vent CO2 through the RV (assuming the rubber band is working). So it really doesnt matter what the calculators advise since there is a finite limit for sugar addition. And it matters not whether you add that sugar at any lower than the carbing temperature since if you are relying on priming sugar to initally carb your beer, you need to elevate the temperature to get the residual yeast to wake up and work on the sugar, and at that temperature the PB internal pressure will be at its highest.
So carbing charts are really only applicable to priming in bottles since bottles do not have the same pressure restrictions that apply to a PB.
And finally why PBs are only really suitable for low carb beers like ales, not say lagers or wheat beers.
 
So carbing charts are really only applicable to priming in bottles since bottles do not have the same pressure restrictions that apply to a PB.
After reading some stuff about priming and looking at the charts or calculators I was beginning to think that it was different for PBs.
Is there another way to initially carb a PB, I have read that just using c02 isn’t enough. Would it be do able if the beer was cold enough? After I’ve cold crashed it’s still pretty damn cold.
 
The science says one mol of sucrose (MW 342) produces four mols of CO2 (total 176).
So 90 g of table sugar will produce about 46 g CO2. Which is about 6 x 8g bulbs.
So you can use bulbs or an S30 cylinder but priming sugar is much cheaper.
The choice is yours.
 
Ive got a gauge fitted to it so should give me some warning, I hope acheers.
My experience is if you leak test a 5 gallon PB empty using air from a 12 volt car tyre pump the pressure increases slowly but as @terrym says, there's a lot of energy in there. Far better to almost full the PB with water to reduce the air space. Inflates quicker so you need to watch it carefully, and if there is a leak the pressure will drop quicker.
 
On the priming front, I add 3 ounces of granulated white sugar to 16 fluid ounces of water and bring to the boil, leave to cool then put in the PB before racking my beer from the FV. Before I tighten the PB cap I give it a quick squirt if CO2 from S30 cylinder to displace some of the air, tighten the cap and pressurise to 3 psi then back in the fermentation fridge at 20 degrees C until the pressure stops increasing then drop temperature to 10 degrees C for conditioning time.
 
Put a new CO2 cylinder on and screw the holder down. But leave it in place as it will seal the leak. This will prove whether or not the rubber is leaking on the inside part of the S30.

To fix this you will need to renew this rubber seal. Part number 5 is torn or not covering the hole.

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On the priming front, I add 3 ounces of granulated white sugar to 16 fluid ounces of water and bring to the boil, leave to cool then put in the PB before racking my beer from the FV. Before I tighten the PB cap I give it a quick squirt if CO2 from S30 cylinder to displace some of the air, tighten the cap and pressurise to 3 psi then back in the fermentation fridge at 20 degrees C until the pressure stops increasing then drop temperature to 10 degrees C for conditioning time.
I wish I had a fermentation fridge. I’m a basic setup. Looking in to temp controllers and stuff. Still a newbie, and all the info is appreciated
 
OP has said it comes out from the pin valve when he removes the CO2 bulb. So it is the seal at '5' which is leaking.
Even though the seal looks intact, is this possible? I have removed bits of metal from the middle of the pin and can see more in there. Albeit smooshed cause I couldn’t get it out.
 
did you do the test I suggested?
Not yet no. I’m low on c02 bulbs and my mate has kindly lent me a spare valve, so I want to save them for now. When I place my next kit order I’ll be able to spare some to test it. For now I’m happy with the fact I can rack the beer clapa
 
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