King keg acquired ... few questions on cleaning/maintenance

[lovelldr]

Hey guys.

After starting to brew a few kits now, and starting to get hooked, I put an advert of freecycle asking if anyone had any kegs they could offer. A nice gentleman nearby offered one to me, which I collected... Now, he told me that I just need to get some food grade tubing to connect the tap to the float. So, first question... Is this the same as the tube that I use to syphon the beer off with? I imagine so, but just want to check... Now, where's the most likely place to be able to pick some of this up from? If it is the syphon tube, I guess I could just pick one up from Wilkinson's (assuming local has that one in)?

Next, would I need to do any maintenance to it?

Here's a few pics of the kit:

Keg:

Screw-top & gas valve:

Float:

Above are pics of the kit. Now, obviously, I was gonna clean this out. First idea, was to get some thin bleach (any ideas on which is best? Saw on asda a "Smart Price Thin Bleach" at 29p, would that be ok? As all others said thick bleach) and then use that to clean it inside and out... Then, to bleach all the other bits, like the drum tap, the float, the screw top etc.

Then, I was gonna see how well the keg kept the pressure as was by filling with a little oxy cleaner, shaking up etc, and ensure there's no leaks etc. Is that all I'd need to do by everyone's thoughts?

Next, I assume (forgot to ask the bloke I got it from) that an s30 gas cylinder like this one would work ok for the gas? How long do these cylinders usually last for?

Any further tips of info people can give me... One thing that I'm sure I've seen somewhere, is that for pressuring beer, most kegs it's recommended to use up to 95g of sugar, but a king keg can take up to 120g. Is that correct?

Many thanks again in advance. Looking forward to getting to use this keg, and seeing the difference between bottles and kegs.

Oh, that's made me think... If I wanted to bottle a few from a ferment, could I batch prime in the keg, and then bottle from the keg (straight away)? Looking forward to being able to cut off a lot of time when it comes to finishing the beer off :)

 

[pittsy]

hi in short you have answered correct to every think you have asked yes to tube , yes to bleach , yes to priming amounts (120g) and yes to batch priming then transfering to a few bottles straight away , you have done your homework well

 

[Dieseljockey]

Well done you can move to the front of the class...

 

[lovelldr]

lol, cheers guys... Will need to nip shops to get all the required stuff tomorrow hopefully...

So, would I need to remove the s30 valve to give it a full clean to ensure it's fine and the washers are ok, or just leave it as is, and test whether it holds the pressure?

 

[pittsy]

prob best to remove it as you never know and what a shame if it got infected due to not doing it , you may need to replace the rubbers you can get a set for under £2 for the 3 of em out side, inside and large seal ring , they say you should replace em every year so they prob will need it

 

[crofty83]

What's the best way to replace the rubbers? The guy at my LHBS uses a 3 pin things that's spreads out the rubber before he puts it on

 

[pittsy]

they just push on sort of etc not hard to do

 

[lovelldr]

prob best to remove it as you never know and what a shame if it got infected due to not doing it , you may need to replace the rubbers you can get a set for under £2 for the 3 of em out side, inside and large seal ring , they say you should replace em every year so they prob will need it

And to take the s30 off, is an adjustable spanner the easiest thing to use? Where do you guys get the washers from? As when I had a quick look, just the one big 4" screw top one was about £4?!

 

[Dieseljockey]

The best thing is to shop around on the net, try all the sponsors, and take a look on Ebay.

 

[Kevin Wood]

I was looking for a replacement float tube for my King Keg and the LHBS said it was an odd size of tube, which they don't stock. :wha: They did sell me a replacement float, tube and insert that fits into the back of the tap for about £4. A costly couple of inches of hose, but it's at least a solution.

I don't believe for a minute that the hose is unobtainable separately. I keep meaning to measure up the tube and have a look round.

As to cleaning and using the barrel, you are on the right tracks, as said. :thumb:

I tend to completely strip mine down between brews, so remove the tap, and the injector valve from the lid, remove the large silicone sealing washer from the lid. Clean all the parts separately and check the condition of all seals. Replace any that look suspect then smear a little vaseline on all sealing surfaces and threads and reassemble.

It's well worth checking it's sealed while sanitising the barrel to avoid a panic if it starts leaking with a brew inside, in my opinion.

Assemble it ready for the beer then fill it maybe 1/4 full of your choice of sanitising solution. Seal the lid and discharge a CO2 cylinder into it to build some pressure. Roll the barrel around so the fluid covers the main lid and check for obvious leaks. Ditto the area where the tap is mounted. A solution of fairy liquid sprayed around these areas will be useful to spot gas leaks. Leave it a couple of hours and check it's held the pressure. Discharge the sanitiser through the tap to ensure the route through the pipe to the tap is sanitised then rinse thoroughly if you haven't used a "no-rinse" sanitiser and fill.

IMHO, if you take a little time to go through the above procedure they are 100% reliable and rarely need extra CO2 unless you're drawing a large amount of beer off at one sitting. :drunk:

 

[lovelldr]

Thanks for the info Kevin.

I think I read somewhere that the float that I have been given is an adapted float anyway (latstock beer float from looking around). Looking at all the pictures of the different latstock floats, they all seem to have a plastic kind of "housing". Is this needed? As mine didn't have one.

Got some syphon tube from wilko's in my lunch break, so will give it a test when I get home to check whether it fits ok...

 

[Kevin Wood]

The float assembly in your link is exactly what came with my king keg from new, and what I bought recently to replace the hose. :thumb:

The float is in two parts: a white plastic ring, into which the pipe fits, which sits just below the surface and picks up the beer, and a clear plastic cap that fits on top of it. This actually traps the air that makes it float, so it is required, otherwise it will sink.

I think the original pipe is silicone rather than the polythene pipe that's often sold as syphon hose. Not sure if the polythene hose will be flexible enough.

I will try and measure the pipe when I get home if you like?

 

[lovelldr]

The float assembly in your link is exactly what came with my king keg from new, and what I bought recently to replace the hose. :thumb:

The float is in two parts: a white plastic ring, into which the pipe fits, which sits just below the surface and picks up the beer, and a clear plastic cap that fits on top of it. This actually traps the air that makes it float, so it is required, otherwise it will sink.

I think the original pipe is silicone rather than the polythene pipe that's often sold as syphon hose. Not sure if the polythene hose will be flexible enough.

I will try and measure the pipe when I get home if you like?

Thanks for the offer. But I went to LHBS (well, chemist that has a few HB bits in), and checked, and they had a new float system in stock, so for £4.39 I went ahead and got it... Got the S30 gas from there as well. Looking on internet/ebay, have seen them available for £18.99, so looks like it was a little bit of a rip off :p But when postage is added on, mine comes out slightly cheaper :p

Just ordered some o-rings and washers for the s30 valve...

Gonna bottle current batch as need to do this one tomorrow (well, assuming it's all finished). Batch after is a lager, so that will be bottled too... So I will keg the coopers dark ale when I've brewed it :)

Thanks all for the help and guidance. Just one last question I wanted to ask... What's the easiest way to remove the o-ring? Seems pretty tight fitting (which is the point I suppose, but just wanted to check so I don't damage the cap or anything). Also, does it need removing every time I sanitise? Or, just vaseline up when first insert to lid, and then sanitising of the whole lid will be enough for the o-ring?

Cheers again : :drink:

 

[Kevin Wood]

Just one last question I wanted to ask... What's the easiest way to remove the o-ring? Seems pretty tight fitting (which is the point I suppose, but just wanted to check so I don't damage the cap or anything). Also, does it need removing every time I sanitise? Or, just vaseline up when first insert to lid, and then sanitising of the whole lid will be enough for the o-ring?

Cheers again : :drink:

Do you mean the large clear O ring that seals the main lid?

I tend to use a pin. Push it down by the side of the seal and then lever it out. You have to be careful not to push the pin into the seal itself, but this makes it easy to remove.

As to removing it every time... I do, but you might get away with it if you don't.. Then again, you might spoil a batch. :hmm: I tend to take the safe option, especially as, in addition to being sure everything is sanitised well, you are also making sure it will hold pressure. Inspecting the seal, cleaning it and giving it a fresh smear of Vaseline gives you the best chance of avoiding something going wrong.

 

[lovelldr]

Do you mean the large clear O ring that seals the main lid?

I tend to use a pin. Push it down by the side of the seal and then lever it out. You have to be careful not to push the pin into the seal itself, but this makes it easy to remove.

As to removing it every time... I do, but you might get away with it if you don't.. Then again, you might spoil a batch. :hmm: I tend to take the safe option, especially as, in addition to being sure everything is sanitised well, you are also making sure it will hold pressure. Inspecting the seal, cleaning it and giving it a fresh smear of Vaseline gives you the best chance of avoiding something going wrong.

Yes Kevin, that's what I was referring.

Was thinking of using a jewellers style screwdriver, using one of the smallest flat edge ones... But just wanted to check that there wasn't an official way or something :p

As you say, probably best to take it out on each clean, if not just for adding the vaseline...

Talking of which, when I went to Wilkinsons, they didn't have any vaseline, but did have this. Assume it's the same thing, and so would be ok? Or is there a particular reason that it has to be vaseline. What got me worried, was when I was looking on ebay for the washers, and found this... Said it's "food grade", but at 20 times the price and possibly half the amount, has gotten me wondering whether there is a reason a certain type needs to be used?! I'd doubt it, but just wanting to check :)

 

[lovelldr]

Another thing I forgot to ask...

I've read on some sites that you should apply vaseline to the thread, and the washers. On others, I've seen that you should only apply vaseline to the o ring washer, and only a thin smear. So, what's best practice? And when it says applying it to the washers, is it just the o-ring washer? Or should I apply some to the valve sealing washer also?

Thanks again :)

 

[pittsy]

hi , just the o ring and thread thats so you can tighten it and it will seal also so you can undue it later , no wanted on other rubbers/washers also make sure the inside 1 is pushed all the way up otherwise when you add gas it pops off which will let all the gas out

 

[lovelldr]

hi , just the o ring and thread thats so you can tighten it and it will seal also so you can undue it later , no wanted on other rubbers/washers also make sure the inside 1 is pushed all the way up otherwise when you add gas it pops off which will let all the gas out

Cheers again. :thumb: