Keezer insulation question

[Jzrp]

Hi all

I’m currently building a keezer so I can switch from bottling to kegging, and have got as far as building and attaching a collar.

I have a question; most of the time people seem to use a foil backed foam insulation board to insulate their collar, which seems like a good idea. When I was in b&q, I could only find super thick foil backed board or thin and cheap uncovered foam insulation board.

I bought the uncovered version, just wandering if anyone else has used this and if it’s recommended to try and cover with kitchen foil or paint or anything on the internal face? Or is it totally useless and better off trying to hunt down something else?

 

[phettebs]

I used the wood collar only. I did not use a foil back or anything else. The wood will insulate just fine.

 

[Jzrp]

I used the wood collar only. I did not use a foil back or anything else. The wood will insulate just fine.

cheers, from what I’ve seen most people seem to include some kind of foam insulation but maybe it’s something that’s not that necessary

 

[RoomWithABrew]

If the wooden collar gets colder than the surrounding freezer parts then it is worth insulating it. Insulation may well reduce condensation as well.

 

[crowcrow]

I personally think people oversell the value of foil backed - that goes for keezer, camping, home insulation etc - in theory at least the reflective foil stops some radiant heat - but in practice foil has a worse thermal transfer than plain insulation foam. But I am no expert in this area!

Your plain board will be fine.

More important is the airflow on the heat transfer panels of your freezer - make sure these aren't covered - they need more airflow. An A+ freezer running efficiently might cost £30 a year to run, but if you cover the panels that do the heat transfer (as many people like to cover the whole keezer in wood) then it might cost £120 or more. Similarly using an 10yo free freezer from gumtree - might be free or next to nothing to buy, but it will only take a year or two running before you would have paid more in electric than you would to get a brand new freezer that runs efficiently.

 

[Redwulf]

I used 1" thick polystyrene to line the lid and collar on mine. seemed to work fine.

 

[Jzrp]

Cheers all, appreciate the replies

 

[Jzrp]

I personally think people oversell the value of foil backed - that goes for keezer, camping, home insulation etc - in theory at least the reflective foil stops some radiant heat - but in practice foil has a worse thermal transfer than plain insulation foam. But I am no expert in this area!

Your plain board will be fine.

More important is the airflow on the heat transfer panels of your freezer - make sure these aren't covered - they need more airflow. An A+ freezer running efficiently might cost £30 a year to run, but if you cover the panels that do the heat transfer (as many people like to cover the whole keezer in wood) then it might cost £120 or more. Similarly using an 10yo free freezer from gumtree - might be free or next to nothing to buy, but it will only take a year or two running before you would have paid more in electric than you would to get a brand new freezer that runs efficiently.

This is a good point, I got a cheap indesit chest freezer from FB marketplace to avoid splashing on a new one but you’re right might be less economical ultimately!

Will use the plain board then rather than spend on different.

 

[phettebs]

Condensation is a concern. I keep a small bowl of calcium chloride pellets in there keezer to absorb moisture. It works quite well.

 

[RoomWithABrew]

Regarding Condensation, cat litter is also meant to be good for absorbing it, just put it in a container with holes in the lid. When damp you can dry it out again in the oven or sun.
Covering up the sides of fridge freezer as @crowcrow says is bad. Looks good but traps heat into the keezer or fridge and makes compressor work harder so more noise and all part of the cost. If you do clad leave an airgap and ventilate it with a PC fan. Also why you shouldn't build your fridge in tight in a kitchen or tight up against the oven.
Have attached thermal picture of the front and side of the freezer showing the hidden heat exchanger lines.



Old fridges have the black grill on the back and no lines in the side so can be insulated which will improve an old fridges efficiency.
Pictures of my upright keg fridge commercial style glass door, no heat exchangers in the sides hence easy install of the taps & drip tray.


Big danger if you tried to fit taps into the front or side of the freezer ( hence another need for collar )
Similarly all chest freezers will benefit from extra insulation on the lid ( on the inside if you have space ) and insulation on the inside will shield the contents from the heat that is actually in the wall heat exchangers. But most of us don't have the space for that extra internal insulation.

 

[kodak79]

The foil is a vapour barrier as the insulation doesn't work particularly well when it gets wet.

 

[foxbat]

Hi all

I’m currently building a keezer so I can switch from bottling to kegging, and have got as far as building and attaching a collar.

I have a question; most of the time people seem to use a foil backed foam insulation board to insulate their collar, which seems like a good idea. When I was in b&q, I could only find super thick foil backed board or thin and cheap uncovered foam insulation board.

I bought the uncovered version, just wandering if anyone else has used this and if it’s recommended to try and cover with kitchen foil or paint or anything on the internal face? Or is it totally useless and better off trying to hunt down something else?

I lined mine with B&Q insulation boards then sealed the gaps between them with silicone and stuffed the uneven edges at the bottom where they'd been cut with loft insulation and taped them in place with some insulation tape:

I also stuff the gaps around the holes where the tap shanks come through with loft insulation.

 

[crowcrow]

The foil is a vapour barrier as the insulation doesn't work particularly well when it gets wet.

My polystyrene cups in the 90s seemed to keep my coffee pretty hot without the foil backing, but as I say, I am certainly no expert.

(my personal solution was to not drill at all into the keezer and run 3/16 inch tubing through lid, just cracked open, with silicon to seal it up nicely.)

 

[crowcrow]

I lined mine with B&Q insulation boards then sealed the gaps between them with silicone and stuffed the uneven edges at the bottom where they'd been cut with loft insulation and taped them in place with some insulation tape:

I also stuff the gaps around the holes where the tap shanks come through with loft insulation.

Looks very tidy!

 

[RoomWithABrew]

Don't try lemon squash in your polystyrene cups it seems to make them fail in a very messy way.
@foxbat That collar looks tidy. Make sure your stuffed holes with loft insulation ( I assume wool) are well sealed otherwise condensation could get on the wool and before you know it you'll have some nice colonies growing there.

 

[foxbat]

Don't try lemon squash in your polystyrene cups it seems to make them fail in a very messy way.
@foxbat That collar looks tidy. Make sure your stuffed holes with loft insulation ( I assume wool) are well sealed otherwise condensation could get on the wool and before you know it you'll have some nice colonies growing there.

Condensation has been an issue in summer when I've got lagers on and the keezer is at 6C but it tends to condense on the metal internal sides. I've got a computer fan in the well at the bottom of the keezer that helps a lot and I've been wiping the sides down with a VWP soaked cloth between kegs. Every now and then I pull out the rock-wool insulation and replace it. I like your cat-litter-in-a-box idea, I'm going to try that.

 

[foxbat]

Looks very tidy!

Thanks! The collar itself is made from an MDF skirting board piece. I took one look at the warped and twisted softwood boards for sale in B&Q etc. and walked away. The MDF board is as straight and flat as a die. I mitred the ends and glued them together with some of that construction adhesive ('strong stuff', 'sticks like sh*t' etc.). I thought I might have to drill and bolt them afterwards but no, that glue is ridiculously strong. An MDF primer to seal it and then some gloss black sanded down between coats finished it nicely. It's not perfect 'piano black' but it's close.

 

[DrunkDelilahBrewery]

Hi all

I’m currently building a keezer so I can switch from bottling to kegging, and have got as far as building and attaching a collar.

I have a question; most of the time people seem to use a foil backed foam insulation board to insulate their collar, which seems like a good idea. When I was in b&q, I could only find super thick foil backed board or thin and cheap uncovered foam insulation board.

I bought the uncovered version, just wandering if anyone else has used this and if it’s recommended to try and cover with kitchen foil or paint or anything on the internal face? Or is it totally useless and better off trying to hunt down something else?

Try this tape.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Brackit-Al...ld=1&keywords=foil+tape&qid=1620203127&sr=8-5
It works well.

 

[HarryFlatters]

I didn't bother with collar insulation, the timber is about 50mm thick so I didn't think any additional insulation would help.

 

[RoomWithABrew]

@foxbat
Apparently you put the cat litter in a sock and can then just hang or place it somewhere in the keezer, not in a box.