John Guest line removal sraping

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As I attempt to build my keezer, having not used JG fittings before, I wanted to see just how easy it was to remove line from the pushfit fittings. I was able to push back the dark grey collar (in the direction of the arrow on the image below) to then attempt to pull out the line, but it took some real force, and I noticed the end of the beer line ended up getting scratchd where the blades in the JG fitting were hold in it in place (see image below, boutlined with rectangle). If it makes a difference, this is 3/8 line in to 3/8 female to threaded fitting for quick disconnect.
Should it take this much force to remove, and should it normally scrape the end? The same happened with a different push fit fitting I tried with a JG stem too. I have read they can be fiddly to get the collar back and pull, but I am sure I pushed it back as far as it could go.
line.jpg
 
Yes it does tend to scratch the end, but I've not had one leak as a result (so far).
It shouldn't need a lot of force... what they recommend is to push in the grey collar, then push the pipe IN an bit, then pull it out.

I think overall the idea is that you can get them apart, but you don't really want to be doing it often. You can always cut the last inch off the pipe I guess
 
Yes it does tend to scratch the end, but I've not had one leak as a result (so far).
It shouldn't need a lot of force... what they recommend is to push in the grey collar, then push the pipe IN an bit, then pull it out.

I think overall the idea is that you can get them apart, but you don't really want to be doing it often. You can always cut the last inch off the pipe I guess
Great, thanks for that. I'll try pushing pipe in a little following the pushing of the collar.
Cheers
 
The connectors are good until you snap off the little grippy tabs inside the collar then they're useless because the gas/liquid pressure just pushes the pipe out through the internal o-ring.

I wish they'd sell packs of those collars separately but it seems you have to chuck the whole thing out and buy new again.
 
If you look inside you can see the o-ring that seals the pipe is deeper in than where it stratches so it's only the pipe nearer the end than the scratchy ring that matters. You can try and limit the scratching by pressing the collar in as much as you can. I've got a suzuki spanner that fits around 3/8" pipe and pushes perfectly when it's time to disconnect - saves a lot of broken nails. Oh, and a little push/twist in before you try separating them.
 
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Cheers @BlackRegent - I do have that tool, though it's a little small for 3/8". IT seems to be a better fit for 3/16" though.

True, it is a bit tight for 3/8. I think it's designed for the 5/16 line that Kegland seems to use as standard but it does seem to work on 3/8 if you push it on a bit firmer
 
As I attempt to build my keezer, having not used JG fittings before, I wanted to see just how easy it was to remove line from the pushfit fittings. I was able to push back the dark grey collar (in the direction of the arrow on the image below) to then attempt to pull out the line, but it took some real force, and I noticed the end of the beer line ended up getting scratchd where the blades in the JG fitting were hold in it in place (see image below, boutlined with rectangle). If it makes a difference, this is 3/8 line in to 3/8 female to threaded fitting for quick disconnect.
Should it take this much force to remove, and should it normally scrape the end? The same happened with a different push fit fitting I tried with a JG stem too. I have read they can be fiddly to get the collar back and pull, but I am sure I pushed it back as far as it could go.
View attachment 35875
It helps to push the tube in while holding the collar back
 
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