I'm not sure i'd go to 50l in reality. Just be a pain to store. at 40l batches I can do two cornies and a few bottles. That's the sweet spot for me I think.
Make yer mind up! You said 70L in post #1
I'm not sure i'd go to 50l in reality. Just be a pain to store. at 40l batches I can do two cornies and a few bottles. That's the sweet spot for me I think.
That's what I do, especially in the summer.I have a second home made immersion chiller which I'm planning to use on my next brew day which I'll put in line before the chiller in the wort, and will be in a bucket of water, so when the wort hits the mid 30's where the cooling rate seems to stall to a crawl, I'll chuck a bag or two if ice in the bucket to chill the water before it gets into the main chiller.
I've done this too. I used freezer packs, I set up a spare FV a few hours before wanting to chill, filled with water and ice packs. That way is allows the water to get to a really cold temperature before needed. I start the cooling with both immersion chillers in series, but with the first just on the floor. Then I'll put it in the chilled water when the chilling slows down.I've been looking into this recently as my immersion chiller quickly gets the wort down to the mid to high 30 degrees pretty quickly, but seems to take an age to get it down to the high or mid 20's and seems to stall there. I have a second home made immersion chiller which I'm planning to use on my next brew day which I'll put in line before the chiller in the wort, and will be in a bucket of water, so when the wort hits the mid 30's where the cooling rate seems to stall to a crawl, I'll chuck a bag or two if ice in the bucket to chill the water before it gets into the main chiller.
Maybe a plate or CFC might work better, but more expense right now so a second home made emersion chiller in a bucket of iced water might be a cheap option for now if it works.
To improve an immersion chiller you should use small bore tubing and lots of it. for best heat transfer, the flow needs to be turbulent. A slowish flow through a larger bore can result in laminar flow.
I think Iām going to alter it now!! I used a paint can to Mould the coils round the outside coil and a bit of 4ā soil pipe for the inner coil, so I need to find something with a large diameter to rejig it and have it all covered. Itās always going to be at the back of my mind otherwise!
have to agree with you Kelper, when i was working spent many an hour stripping, cleaning and rebuilding Alfa Laval plate coolers. Even in their much larger state a right pain in the wosits to get to seal 1st timeHaving cleaned a lot of industrial plate coolers, which can be dismantled, I would not want to use a welded plate cooler. The plates get a varnish on and lose efficiency. They need scrubbing to get really clean. We can use CIP (clean in place) equipment for intermediate cleaning but they still benefit from regular dismantling. To improve an immersion chiller you should use small bore tubing and lots of it. for best heat transfer, the flow needs to be turbulent. A slowish flow through a larger bore can result in laminar flow.
One poster said above (post #6) that he didn't want to put something into his wort after the boil. Most people put the immersion chiller into the boiling wort for the last few minutes and this sterilises the chiller. (no cooling water flowing)
And, with an immersion chiller, you can see if it's clean.
For the same reasons, I would not use a counterflow coil.
In my brewzilla instruction it mentions you could use the emersion chiller by pumping the wort through the coil with the coil sat in a bucket of cold water, so I guess approximating a counterflow chiller but without the counterflow. Anyone tried this?
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