I'm a tool.

[JapanBrew]

They don't bother but if you started selling home brew beer, you'd get in trouble.
The requirements to open a microbrewery is really hard. The big guys forced the government to do this to keep the market cornered. But many are fighting it and the past 5 years, 40 breweries opened.

 

[JapanBrew]

Ok. Update now that I'm compensating for alcohol, my OG was 15.5 brix. After 2 weeks in, took a reading and it showed 6.5 brix. From look of it, you'd think that's still sweet as a pie. But, I punched in the numbers and it adjust to 0.7 brix. That makes the FG a blistering low 1.003. Is that right? Looks like a 8% IPA to me. Any input?

 

[MrRock]

Ok. Update now that I'm compensating for alcohol, my OG was 15.5 brix. After 2 weeks in, took a reading and it showed 6.5 brix. From look of it, you'd think that's still sweet as a pie. But, I punched in the numbers and it adjust to 0.7 brix. That makes the FG a blistering low 1.003. Is that right? Looks like a 8% IPA to me. Any input?

If the readings were accurate then 1.003 looks correct, although I use it more as a guide to tell me if I'm in the ballpark of fermentation finishing and whether I've had consistent readings over a few days.

Compare your result with a hydrometer reading when you're ready to bottle and it should be there or thereabouts.

 

[JapanBrew]

I might have to break it out. If I can remember where I put the thing. Haha

 

[MrRock]

I stumbled across this chart recently which gives you a quick way to work out the rough SG from a refractometer Brix reading during fermentation.
It's basically doing the same thing as the various calculators but with less faff, I've stuck it on my brewing fridge for easy reference when taking readings.

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/uploads/ineo/PDF_Version_2008_07_03_Refractometer_Chart___During_Fermentation___Brix_to_SG.pdf

 

[JapanBrew]

I'm sorry but I can follow c++, v basic and most codings involving any covertering language for SQL. That chart made me cross eyed. Please, really please explain that chart.

 

[MrRock]

I'm sorry but I can follow c++, v basic and most codings involving any covertering language for SQL. That chart made me cross eyed. Please, really please explain that chart.

I'll try!

Starting gravity runs vertically on the far left & right, current reading horizontally at the top & bottom.
Use the bottom half for current readings of 3 to 7.2, the top half for 7.4 to 11.8. Find your current reading along the top or bottom and run your finger up or down until you intersect with your OG from the left or right.

So taking your numbers, your current reading was 6.5, so lets round up to 6.6 as it goes up in 0.2 increments (4th along from the bottom left) and run your finger up to your OG, so lets pick 15.6. Where the two cross, that's your current SG which says 1.003.
You'll see if you rounded down to 6.4 & 15.4 instead, then you'd get 1.002, so close enough for a ballpark.

If that makes no sense, hopefully this screenshot will help:

 

[JapanBrew]

That is really cool. I'll keep that nearby. Thanks.

 

[yeastinfection]

so am i right in thinking that if i didnt use the refract for my og then i cant really use it for my fg, other than to see if its stopped fermenting?

 

[JapanBrew]

You can use anything for your OG. But to figure you're FG, you need to calculate with the alcohol. So need to plug in the OG. That chart works well. Or you can use software.

 

[MrRock]

so am i right in thinking that if i didnt use the refract for my og then i cant really use it for my fg, other than to see if its stopped fermenting?

If you used a hydrometer for your OG, you can convert that to Brix easy enough with a calculator like this http://www.brewersfriend.com/brix-converter/

Anything before fermentation starts is easy, it's only during and after fermentation that using the refractometer becomes a bit more tricky, which is why you need a fancier calculator that takes that into account, or something like the chart above.

If you just want to see if fermentation has finished, it's even easier as it doesn't really matter what the reading is, so long as it's the same over a few days and you can then use a chart, calculator or hydrometer to double check that you are at or around your FG.

 

[JapanBrew]

And here I go again!

I'm just going to get this post up for the dumbest things I do. Chime in. Let me have it but post your "dah" moments as well.

Most of us know yeast need nutrients. So they make that. I've got a pack (all written up in Japanese of course) and for the last 3 brews been throwing in a pinch at the 10 minute point. First batch got down to 1.5 brix. Hmm, the yeast had at that batch is what I thought. Second ended at .9 brix. Now we're in way to dry territory! Third went minus. So had to go through my records. I see nothing wrong. So I grab my ingredients. Look at the nutrient packaging at its saying ENZYME! Aaaaaa! Anybody want SUPER dry beer!?