HERMS FALSE BOTTOM OR COPPER MANIFOLD with litle brown pump?

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Newtons Shed

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Hi,
Just wondering for my herms keggle system, powered by the solar project/little brown pump, what are peoples thoughts on a false bottom compared to manifolds? I've never had the pump set up and on the old gravity fed system I simply took the mash tun copper manifold and hop strainer off the H&G plastic brewery and incorporated them onto the keggle build. I know the plate chiller that was also gravity fed used to block but I think this was due to the hop strainer coming undone off the inside of the tap and the syphon effect stopping too. I just not sure if the current maniflds are upto it and not at testing stage yet I just see quite a few issues with them blocking and wasn;t if just sticking a Y filter would solve any issues too?

Thanks
Andy
 
manifold on a boiler, false bottom on a mash tun.

my preference anyway

i always recir first manually to avoid bits getting in the pumps and chillers, then when runnings are bit less connect the pumps.

like the idea of Y filters but fear the surface area would be too small and they would block
 
what are peoples thoughts on a false bottom compared to manifolds? I
Manifolds are fine for low flow rates but if using a HERMS or RIMS you should only really consider a false bottom due to increased surface area v flow rate and heat exchange wanted.
I know the plate chiller that was also gravity fed used to block but I think this was due to the hop strainer coming undone off the inside of the tap and the syphon effect stopping too.
If you're plate chiller has ever blocked due to ingress of particulate you shouldn't be using a PC, unless it's a GPHE. If folk buying PC's ever looked at the operational specs v what HB shops want you to see you'd never buy one. They really require a pre filter, preferably 0.25mm, but up to 0.5mm, otherwise 'stuff' can jam in them and block them up.
I've lost a sealed PC, due to hop ingress so speak from experience, you may be lucky but is it worth it.
 
Sorry for the confusion but yeah I was just asking which way to go either a false bottom or copper manifold to filter the grain bed in a herms system and to filter hops.

Thanks Vossey makes sense, what's a GPHE pc?

Also re pre filter is that in addition to a hop filter and re the surface area would the same apply for the hop strainer ie use a false bottom in the boiler too?

How does the drain on false botom work? does the out let sit sandwich between the porforataied fb? ie one sheet of ss outlet to tap and then another ss sheet on top and the 2 crimped together? Or does the fb just sit near the bottom and the wort under the fb is fed to the tap?
 
Where are all these abbreviations comming from V, its like reading something at work.............. :lol:
S
P.S. I'm off now to see what I can get from the PM..................no not him, the Plumbers Merchant. :)
 
:rofl: you guys...a GPHE is a gasketed plate heat exchanger, you can take them apart to clean them and it's what a lot of breweries use...the downside, they're very expensive, unless you find one cheap on e-bay :whistle:
 
:rofl: NLWYHSV, (Now look what you have started V) . Had to do a google to see what Mrlard was on about. :D
Did well at the PM, tried a new one after getting my pants loosened last local shopping trip. Compression Tee for 2 quid, they were three last week at B.E.S. plus postage. (Don't know what B.E.S. stands for, :? but a big online P.M. usually ok on price, that is untill I found my new man) ;)
S
 
I use a false bottom in my mash tun and boiler. They are made from stainless mesh with 1.5mm holes not sure abut the centres, but I can look it up if needed. Bought the mesh from ebay as sheet and cut it into a circle with a jigsaw. Both are raised of f the base of the pots with stainless studs.
I have strainers fitted upstream of both solar pumps to protect then and the plate hear exchange, but the filtration of the false bottom is very effective, such that I brew with the strainer baskets removed.
I recirculate through a HERMS so clarity is excellent and touch wood, never had a stuck mash or a problem with cooler since using false bottoms.
I certainly recommend their use.
 
Cheers guys - looks like I need to make a false bottom for the MT and boiler then.

Next question side or bottom drain? Ideally as I already have one hole drilled at the side and the boiler is heated by gas ring under it, I'd want keep the side drain. The taps are about an inch from the bottom, so could I just have the f/b above the tap and leave the tap as is which is just a tank connector with tap on end or would I need a pick up tube going through the centre of the fb? If so would the syphon effect work as the pump is not self priming. Thinking about it my current set up with the manifold sits lower than the tap and that seems to syphon out.

Also how tightly fitted around the edges do they need to be? I guess tight enough to stop any grain going down the side?

Could I use something like a seive or splatter guard at the right size circumfrance or a washing up bowl with a load of holes drilled whilst I get set up before going ss mesh.
 
In my first coolbox mash tun ( side tap ) I fitted a 9inch ss false bottom purchased from Homebrew Company above. It had a top connector on it which was connected to the main tap with silicone tubing which sat slightly above it. I put a ring of Vosseys silicone tubing around its edge ( fixed in several places with thin copper wire to stop it unravelling with the heated water )
It worked well and the " dead space " was only around 1.5 litres. Runnings were clear and the fb held up 5kg + of grains without any problem. ( the most weight I brewed with at that time ) It was easily removed at the end of the day and cleaned, although it wasn't really necessary as I use to just pour in a few litres of boiling water at the end of cleaning session and let it run out.
Had no problems after I fixed the tubing in place with thin copper electrical wire.
 
False bottom in the Mash Tun i agree, but not necessary in the boiler, you only need a "Hop Stopper".

Pic of my hop stopper.

P1020115a.jpg
 
I am thinking of using the larger MT manifold in the boiler rather than the smaller hop strainer from H&G in the boiler although these are cut slits rather than drilled holes.

I'm also thinking of trying to make a bery cheap fb not ss and thinking of using large seive or splatter guard or washing bowl with holes drilled and found this;

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Metaltex-Alumin ... 93&sr=1-67

but no idea on the mesh size and if it's suitable?
 
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but will it hold the weight of all the grains in a brew ?
 

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