help with boiler build please

[homebrewstu]

I am upgrading from cool box MT type 20l AG brews to something bigger and shinier. I am going for a big order on those french marmite jobbies. My intention is to go for 100l boiler with a final batch at around 70l or so.

I am not at all very handy but I think I can take on Q-max etc to make the FV, mash tun etc. Where I am stuck is on electrical skills and safety, mainly on the boiler but also putting together the HLT.

In addition to having no electrical skills I am concerned about the quality of the wiring in the flat. I am sure its fine but I am fearful of melting sockets etc as people have alluded to on this and other forums. The safe bet is to use only one element in each of the HLT and boiler. Would I be waiting for ever to boil? Mossbrew for example has only a 3kw element on the HLT http://www.mossbrew.pwp.blueyonder.co.u ... /index.htm.

I would be prepared to buy an off the shelf hlt and boiler but there dont seem to be many around. Also, when I have seen 100l boilers its still needs wiring up.

Anyone had similar reservations or can reassure me?

 

[timbim]

I'm in general very skeptical of the plastic bucket/kettle element boilers. Cheap but unsafe imo.

There are a few threads around about boilers, I've had one running recently, and Aleman and someone else who I can't currently remember have both done How To's on boilers from the SS pots. My plan (when I get round to it) is to follow Aleman's HowTo vaguely, using one of the insulated stockpots. If you use them, you can fit a waterproof junction box into the space between the skins for all the wiring, making it neat and safe. The 3kW pigtail element is probably the best choice, links to it abound around here.

3kW is the maximum power element you can run from a 13A socket. You could use two elements wired independently and plugged into separate sockets. Don't use the same socket for both as many aren't designed to cope with 26A across the two. If you've only got one ring, then it might be wise to only run one element to avoid overloading the ring if anything else was running at the same time as the boiler. If your fusebox is near the brewing area, it might make sense to get an electrician to install some new sockets on a new radial. If you think the electrics are seriously dodgy, for peace of mind it might be worth having a PIR completed, which will highlight any faults.

Whatever you do, ensure that the circuit(s) you use to power your boiler have adequate RCD protection (30mA, 30ms minimum) through whatever means, be that RCD/RCBO in the fuse box, an RCD that plugs into the socket or sits inline in the cable between the plug and the boiler. Might just save your life if anything goes wrong.

 

[screamlead]

Just converted one of my blue plastic barrels into a boiler over the weekend.
I found that the kettle elements i got are 2.4KW and that the kettles were a bit thicker walled than my barrel is - so stuck it all together and have sealed both sides with sealant to 300c which i think should be ok.
Did a leak test by filling half full then tested the elements - they work fine no problem however noticed a slight leak on one so now drained and in the sun to dry out so i can apply more sealant as wouldnt like the inside of the element bits to end up full of water/wort etc.

Anyone else had the thinner walled barrel problem? and if so how did you sort it??

All cables are fine too and i have 2 separate rings to my attic/rooftop etc so things should be ok there too = only built it really 1, to see if i could do it here and 2, as a backup incase i run out of gas on brew days. :thumb: