Haze in every AG

[Smokey.]

Since moving over to AG I seem to get a haze in every beer I make. It gets better over time but it's usually 6-8 weeks later is this normal? If not where may I be going wrong? My procedure towards the end of the brew is put chiller in boiler for last 15 mins add hops. Add pectolase at last 10 mins. When time is up turn off boiler and switch on chiller. Chill down to 20-30 degrees C and leave for 10 mins. Run off into fermenter.

 

[Moley]

Add pectolase at last 10 mins.

Tell me you meant to say Protafloc....

 

[luckyeddie]

Perfectly normal - but PECTOLASE????.

One of the biggest bugbears many people have over home brew as opposed to pub swill (especially with lagers) is the occasional lack of 'brightness'. The big breweries force-filter their beers and also kill the yeasts and force-carbonate, whereas you are using entirely natural processes.

You can do your secondary fermentation in the fridge over a long time - this will reduce 'chill haze' which is the cloudiness that develops when you run your beer through a cooler or pop a bottle in the fridge for a few hours to get it down to drinking temperature. This process is called 'lagering' - and it does not need to be restricted to just lagers. I do it now for all my Belgian beers, because that's how the Trappists do it. So far, with promising results.

Some of the great beers of the world are 'cloudy' - Duvel, Chimay White/Tripel, Westmalle Tripel etc - usually from the suspended yeasts. If your 'problem' is suspended yeasts, then it will definitely improve over time.

 

[Smokey.]

Add pectolase at last 10 mins.

Tell me you meant to say Protafloc....

Yeah, irish moss/protafloc. Don't know why I was thinking of pectolase? Maybe it's becasue i'm half way through a brewday :)

 

[Muddydisco]

I would try adding the protofloc for 15 mins and make sure your getting a good rolling boil when the protofloc is in, if your adding the cold chiller to the boil your knocking out some of the heat and lossing some boil this takes a while to heat back up and I think 10 mins is a bit short. Try cooler in 20 mins left and protofloc in 15mins left to go. See if that makes a difference. It's how I now do mine

 

[Smokey.]

The boil is on so i'll give your method a go towards the end. Thanks.

 

[Muddydisco]

Let us Know the results wont you :thumb:

 

[Smokey.]

Yeah, no probs. I'm not nothered about the haze, it would be nice just no to have one :

 

[phettebs]

Water chemistry can play a part in it too. I have city water that is EXTREMELY high in bicarbonate. I always had a haze in my beers no matter how much cold conditioning or fining I did. When I switched to using mostly distilled water, the haze went away. I've talked to other brewers with hard water who experienced the same thing.

 

[Aleman]

If you have too little] calcium in your water you will get a yeast haze as caclium is required for yeast flocculation.

Hazes are tricky