Hambleton Bard S30 valve help

[Cptn_Needa]

Hi everyone

I decided to invest in a second barrel and picked up a King Keg from my local shop yesterday. I got it home only to find that the valve on top was the type with pin in it. I called the shop to explain and they said to pop in and they'd replace it with the S30 type.

Back in the car and down to the shop I went. When I got there the guy didn't really seem to know the difference between the two types but ended up seeing the difference and swapping it out for an S30 type valve.

I got it home to find that it was a Hambleton Bard stainless steel number which looks a little different in set up to the brass one that came off (it does look a bit swisher though).
This is the one
https://www.homebrewcentre.co.uk/s30-valve-stainless-steel

Anyway I have fitted it (rubber washer on the underside of the cap) but it doesn't seem to want to hold much pressure. Just the shortest of blasts from the C02 and I can hear it escaping.

Trouble is I can't work out if it's coming up though the brown rubber band pressure release or if the rubber washer is leaking. There is a steel colar that covers the pressure release so I can't get any washing up fluid over it to see if the bubbles are coming from there.

Does anyone have any suggestions or any experience with this make of valve?

Cheers :smile:

 

[Graz]

Yes, I bought those for my kegs as I wanted the option of pin valves and they do one where the piercing pin can be removed / refitted by popping out the small inner o-ring.

But anyway the problem I had was the supplied sealing washer on the inside of the keg, it was cr*p to say the least. To tighten the value up enough to stop leaks would then deform the washer so much that it would pop out from underneath the valve base. I never managed to get on to seal properly and ended up changing them for these http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Valve_Base_Washer_Black.html

As I was utterly fed up with them leaking I also added a smear of Fernox LSX to them when fitting and left it to dry for a day or two before using. http://www.screwfix.com/p/fernox-ls-x-leak-sealer-50ml/23614

Not sure it that was entirely necessary but they have been much better since.

Worth checking the pressure relief rubber to though, it may not be centered on the hole.

 

[Cptn_Needa]

Thanks Graz, really appreciate the response.

I had the same issue with the washer distorting and all but popping off the valve but thought I must have been over tightening it. Encouraging to know that it might be a simple fix.

I inspected the pressure release rubber and it seemed ok although it's much thinner and more elastic than the on from the brass valve on on my rotokeg. Hard to say for sure it's not leaking but it is definitely centred.

Will I need to re-prime or can I just purge the O2? It's been in the barrel since Saturday.

 

[Cptn_Needa]

Update:

I got a couple of sealing washers to replace the flimsy one supplied with the valve and they seem much more robust.

Fitted the new washer and still not holding pressure (can hear it leaking almost as soon as the CO2 starts entering).

So I took off the brown pressure release rubber and whacked some electrical tape round to create a solid seal and hey presto - no leak.

Didn't want to keep the tape on there as I thought the pressure might rise too high so I've put the rubber back on and put a thin slither of electrical tape lightly around the rubber. Also re-primed and purged the O2.

This doesn't feel like a solid solution to the issue as I think either the tape will be on two tight and pressure will get too high or (and this is more likely) the tape give under pressure and as it's not elastic there will be nothing to stop the CO2 escaping.

Back down to the brew shop for a new pressure rubber it is then

Thoughts and comments on what I've done are more than welcome.

 

[Dutto]

The Non-Return Rubber may be too long and allowing CO2 to escape that way.

Apparently the length of the spigot varies with make.

I had to trim about 2mm off a new one to get it to fit at the back of the small ridge that stops it blowing off when CO2 is introduced.

 

[VW911]

FYI - the sealing washer goes on the OUTSIDE of the cap!!!

 

[Graz]

FYI - the sealing washer goes on the OUTSIDE of the cap!!!

Not with the new stainless type that he's using (as well as me). With these the washer goes on the inside.

 

[Sandimas]

So I took off the brown pressure release rubber and whacked some electrical tape round to create a solid seal and hey presto - no leak.

Those pressure release valves are a PITA. The rubber seals don't last forever, so it may have degraded in the shop. I've even fitted new ones and they've leaked.

I've had so many problems with them now that I just block them off, I have a pressure gauge on my barrels now so I know if they're building up too much pressure.

 

[Dutto]

FYI - the sealing washer goes on the OUTSIDE of the cap!!!

On mine, the one on the outside is for pressure control and the one on the inside is a Non-Return Valve. :thumb:

 

[Fil]

repair or upgrade any washer with a larger than 10mm eye using the 'everlasting gasket' technique which is simply to wrap a card template with ptfe tape (LOTS OF IT).

In the case where you have the washer, use that instead of the template.

If the washers eye is too small to pass the tape roll through, you will need to transfer it to a 'bobbin',
- a burger king type straw will friction fit onto a PZ2 screwdriver bit in a drill driver and you can wind a tidy roll of ptfe onto it using the drill motor to drive it on while you maintain a degree of tension to ensure a neat roll. Then snip the straw wither side of your winding try to keep the width to the minimum while winding..

then wrap neatly and flatly round n round n round looping thu the eye, overlapping slightly after about 4 x round completely the tape will start to form a soft cushion across its longer surfaces.. GOOD!! thats what u want to see, and keep going at least 3 times more round the whole washer.

the cushioning is air trapped between the wraps even tho you maintained good tension while wrapping, when put in place and under the compression as that air squeezes out it pushes the ptfe into wherever needs sealing and the resulting compressed ptfe resembles the stiff solid ptfe triclamp seals.. in fact it was when i mislaid a 2" triclamp seal i googled and uncovererd this trick, Years later my #1 everlasting gasket is still in good nick and in place.

ive even used the technique as a quick fix for a corny post oring while ebay and the PO bought me a replacement..

 

[Cptn_Needa]

Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions. Really sorry for the slow reply, things have been manic in the household.
I think I've managed to get a good seal using the washer I ordered.

The PTFE solution sounds like a cracking good idea and will definitely try that out next time. Got rolls of the stuff left over from replacing the radiators a few years back.

Next on the list is to get a fridge set up with the external thermometer thingy. Gumtree here I come.