get brew off the trub or leave for 2 - 3 weeks?

[Just-Brew-it]

So I've done a few beer kits now mostly the woodfrdes wherry, and none have turned out that great to be honest, all have been a bit yeasty and maybe off flavoured but mostly yeasty. so what I done this brew differently is I bought a load of bottled spring water instead of using tap water. also I've bought a second fermentor to transfer the wort to let it settle after its brewed, I've done this because i remember reading someone said to get your beer off the trub as soon as its fermented as the trub can leach off flavours into the wort. now I have just read on a website about tips for brewing beer kits and he made the statement that you should leave it for 2 to 3 weeks atleast to let the yeast reabsorb off flavours (think he may have used the word tanin?) so who is right out of the 2?
thanks, rob

 

[aamcle]

2 weeks fermenting
2 weeks bottle conditioning/carbonating
2 months (or more) to mature.

If you rush it you won't get the best out of it.

Atb. Aamcle

 

[Edindie]

So I've done a few beer kits now mostly the woodfrdes wherry, and none have turned out that great to be honest, all have been a bit yeasty and maybe off flavoured but mostly yeasty. so what I done this brew differently is I bought a load of bottled spring water instead of using tap water. also I've bought a second fermentor to transfer the wort to let it settle after its brewed, I've done this because i remember reading someone said to get your beer off the trub as soon as its fermented as the trub can leach off flavours into the wort. now I have just read on a website about tips for brewing beer kits and he made the statement that you should leave it for 2 to 3 weeks atleast to let the yeast reabsorb off flavours (think he may have used the word tanin?) so who is right out of the 2?
thanks, rob

This is often discussed. Taking it off the trub reduces the risk of infection from the krausen ring, but exposes you to infection risk from the transfer. There is no right or wrong. I transfer to secondary but only because I get so much break material in the FV, I need to transfer after a few days or the auto siphon gets clogged with it all.

When I made kits I found that they were often tasteless or rubbish. I know I wasn't sanitising properly and I think that was probably the reason. Other reasons could be age of the malt extract / yeast or temp control.

I'd explain this to your lhbs and get him to give you his newest kit. Then at least you know it isn't the kit's fault.

 

[Edindie]

Just reread your post. If you chill the wort for 48h before transferring it to a second fv for priming /bottling then much of the yeast in suspension will fall out. Also make.sure you're not pouring then yeast from the bottle into your glass. Are your beers clear?

 

[aamcle]

There is a good "how to" on making the most of kits

http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=1911

Might be worth a read.

Aamcle

 

[Midlife]

I always do 2 FVs, near the end of the first FV I transfer to a demijohn with an airlock... the beer clears nicely.

 

[aamcle]

Midlife how much are you brewing per batch?

Atb. Aamcle

 

[Midlife]

I always aim at the 19 or 23l batch... Larger I'm not realy set up for. I've only just done my first AG after extract.

I bit extra effort on the 2nd FV but I find I get nice clear beers/lagers.

Cheers

D

 

[aamcle]

So you use 4 or 5 demijohns per batch as secondary?

Aamcle

 

[Midlife]

Sorry see what you mean... It's a 5 gal (plastic) demijohn with screw cap and airlock. As I say works well for me... from this I bottle for lager, and keg for ale.