Fuller's ESB Clone

[Robbo100]

Hi All,

I have now popped my AG1 cherry (http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=34108), and there is no turning back. I have enough empty bottles to get AG2 going as soon as my FV is empty (and AG3 for that matter). I had considered getting a second FV on the go at the same time, but realised that quite like being married :rofl: .

Anyway, I am really keen on making something like a Fuller's ESB Clone. I want to build up some knowledge of making AGs of beers similar to ones that I like, so that I can then start experimenting when I understand how the different ingredients build the different beer flavours.

I have found the following recipie at this website: http://www.byo.com/component/resource/article/2398-fuller-s-the-pride-of-london, and I wanted some advice regarding the Muttons Pale Ale Malt. Basically, I can't find that sort of malt at any online shops I have looked at, and wanted to know what I should use (can I just use Marris Otter?).

Also, does anyone else have any other recipies which might be better (more accurate, easier, use less hops varieties) than the one below?

Finally, when it says to "add the Goldings hops to the secondary fermenter", what does that mean (i.e. "secondary fermenter")? Does it just mean to throw those hops into the FV when I add the yeast?

Thanks all.

Fuller’s ESB clone
(5 gallons/ 19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.060 FG = 1.014
IBU = 35 SRM = 15
ABV = 5.9%

This recipe is for the bottled version of ESB. The cask version in the UK is 5.5% ABV.

Ingredients
11 lbs. 3 oz. (5.1 kg) Muntons pale ale malt
1 lb. 2 oz. (0.51 kg) crystal malt (75 °L)
5.25 AAU Target hops (60 min)
(0.53 oz./15 g of 10% alpha acids)
2.6 AAU Challenger hops (60 min)
(0.34 oz./10 g of 7.5% alpha acids)
0.83 AAU Northdown hops (15 min)
(0.1 oz./2.7 g of 8.5% alpha acids)
1.66 AAU Goldings hops (15 min)
(0.33 oz./9.4 g of 5% alpha acids)
0.33 oz. (9.4 g) Goldings hops
(dry hop)
Wyeast 1968 (London ESB) or White Labs WLP002 (English Ale) yeast

Step by Step
Mash grains at 153 °F (67 °C) in 16.5 quarts (15.5 L) of water. Mash for 60 minutes. Collect 6.5 gallons (25 L) of wort. Boil for 60 minutes, adding hops at the times indicated. Cool and ferment at 69 °F (21 °C). Add Goldings dry hops to secondary fermenter.

 

[PD]

Maris Otter is Pale Malt, and its considered by many to be the No.1 so yes you can easily use it in place of Muntons.
Crisp Pale malt is gaining in reputation and is somewhat cheaper, when bought in bulk.
I'd also suggest a copy of Graham Wheelers book Brew Your Own British Real Ale for some very good recipes.
You can have 2 Fv's and a happy marriage...I've got 3.....

 

[Robbo100]

You haven't met my wife!

 

[Good Ed]

recipe looks good, adding hops to secondary is dry hopping

you might want to consider this http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/v...98&p=199974&hilit=pride+of+manchester#p199974 I'm sure GA would give you any advice

 

[graysalchemy]

Muntons is just a brand as is crisps. Marris otter is a variety of barley used for malting, there are others but Marris otter is probably the most widely used.

 

[PD]

pm sent GA re your brew

 

[Robbo100]

recipe looks good, adding hops to secondary is dry hopping

But what exactly is the "secondary"?

I thought the secondary fermentation was done in the bottles!?

 

[PD]

a secondary fv is used, usually for dry hopping ( although not necessary ) The brew is racked off its trub after 8-10 days into a clean fv and hops are suspended in the brew for a further few days

 

[Robbo100]

a secondary fv is used, usually for dry hopping ( although not necessary ) The brew is racked off its trub after 8-10 days into a clean fv and hops are suspended in the brew for a further few days

Ahhh, thanks. Will the hops then sink to the bottom of the secondary FV so that I don't suck them into the bottles when I syphon rack the beer, or will I need to filter it in some way?

Just to check then:

1) Into FV for 8-10 days.
2) Syphon into secondary FV (gently without adding any air to avoid risk of infection) and throw the hops on top, then leave for say 3 days. Question - might it be better ot add the hops to the secondary FV before putting the wort in, so that it mixes better?
3) Move somewhere cool for 2 days.
4) Rack as normal into bottles with priming sugar (or batch prime).

Does this sound like the right sort of process?

Thanks (and sorry for being a little bit dull witted).

Robbo100

EDIT: Would throwing the hops in to the primary FV after 10 days without moving to a secondary FV give the same results, or is it important to get rig of the trub at this stage?

 

[PD]

doing it in the primary is ok no problem lots of folks dont bother with a second fv.

When adding the hops, put them into a small muslin bag called a hop sock ( my local lhbs sells them for £1.50 for 3 ) add a sterilised weight also ( I use a brass half inch bsp socket. and hang it in the vessel with a piece of string ( also sterilised.)

 

[Robbo100]

I am glad I asked that question.

Great answer, thanks.

 

[paulgough]

I am also attempting an ESB clone.

I have just racked to a secondary FV with dry hops.

Like you, I'm curious about how long to leave it. I've heard different theories.

It's sitting in my cupboard under the stairs at about 16c.

How long should it be left before bottling?

 

[graysalchemy]

Probably a week is what I would do , also let's the beer clear.

 

[paulgough]

Thanks. Was thinking about 10 days but a week seems good.

 

[Robbo100]

Thanks GA.

 

[Robbo100]

Just a thought - is there any risk that the dry hops themselves might introduce any nasty bacteria into the beer, or are they sterilised when they are vacuum packed?