Fridge advice

[MashBag]

I have trapped wires in the door seal before. It works well.
40mm does seem large, but I use the outdoor fridge for a variety of things.
This will be an air vent, for drying. And in the heat of summer the port for running the two 12mm coolant hoses and a power cable, that supply the fermentation chiller coil.

I am using a swivel waste as the port and cover.



The door is of course the safest but then the door opening will be impeded somewhat.

Tbh I only just caught this pipe by less than 1mm.
Will make a good fermentation chamber, but I don't really need one? I do everything in the BM20 now.
I might even clean it up and put it in the freezer as a cold cabinet instead of the cooler box.

 

[Jason s]

Take a small drill piece say 6mm and just carefully drill through the skin of the fridge and no more. Then take the drill piece and push through so it touches the other side and mark the depth with a sharpie or tape just so you can eye it up against the thickness of the wall to be sure you hit the plastic and not a pipe. Once happy theres no pipe there take your hole cutter and carefully drill through the sheet metal skin just enough so you can remove it. Then with a stanley remove the insulation and check for pipes. Hope that makes sense. Good luck

 

[MrJay83]

I have trapped wires in the door seal before. It works well.
40mm does seem large, but I use the outdoor fridge for a variety of things.
This will be an air vent, for drying. And in the heat of summer the port for running the two 12mm coolant hoses and a power cable, that supply the fermentation chiller coil.

I am using a swivel waste as the port and cover.

View attachment 84972

The door is of course the safest but then the door opening will be impeded somewhat.

Tbh I only just caught this pipe by less than 1mm.
Will make a good fermentation chamber, but I don't really need one? I do everything in the BM20 now.
I might even clean it up and put it in the freezer as a cold cabinet instead of the cooler box.

I like the idea but is that not a massive cold-bridge? I'm guessing that's not plastic.

 

[MashBag]

Take a small drill piece say 6mm and just carefully drill through the skin of the fridge and no more. Then take the drill piece and push through so it touches the other side and mark the depth with a sharpie or tape just so you can eye it up against the thickness of the wall to be sure you hit the plastic and not a pipe. Once happy theres no pipe there take your hole cutter and carefully drill through the sheet metal skin just enough so you can remove it. Then with a stanley remove the insulation and check for pipes. Hope that makes sense. Good luck

Nice one. Thank you.
It sounds like you have done this before

 

[MashBag]

I like the idea but is that not a massive cold-bridge? I'm guessing that's not plastic.

That's a good point.no sure it's massive but definitely a good point.

I was intending to reuse the insulation as a bung. But I get your point. Wonder if I can find somthing in plastic.

Thanks

 

[MrJay83]

Should be able to find something plastic. Failing that a plastic bath drain and old fashioned rubber plug would do the job.

 

[Sorcerers Apprentice]

That's not correct. The coolant flows through pipes in the sides of the fridge, this makes it get warmer. This heat is then dispersed via the grid at the back.
This is an over simplification but if your fridge looks like the one in the second photo it doesn't mean there are no refridgerant pipes in the sides for you to drill in to.

You're right, some fridges have a loop from the condenser circuit on the back of the fridge, running through the side panels, and around the door frame to heat the door seal. This makes the fridge easier to open . It's usually on more expensive models, but.its easy to check for, as the door frame will be quite warm to touch.

 

[MashBag]

Bugger. Might have to be metal. Can't find anything useful in plastic.

 

[MrJay83]

This and a couple of rubber stoppers? Could pack with insulation when not in use and shave the ends to get more turn on the thread if needed.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-t28m-straight-connector-white-40mm-x-40mm/71314?ref=SFAppShare

 

[Sorcerers Apprentice]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Black-Comp...ocphy=1007850&hvtargid=pla-465990120471&psc=1Something like this , and seal it in with some Tec 7?

 

[MashBag]

Ooo didn't think of desk port. 60mm is getting a bit big (even for me ) but there must be smaller.

I did think about a pipe & rubber bungs. Not sure.

Could do a threaded tank connector and then a screw on lid. Was trying to get to a smart lolling flush (ish) something.

 

[YeastFace]

Depending how thick the opening is, might you get away with a cable gland?

 

[Mash Monster]

Why not contact the fridge manufacturer and speak to technical they with be able to tell you where the pipes run.
Just a thought

 

[AlBrew]

This might work. Don't think you'll be able to get the lock nut on the back but it could be apoxy'd on?

 

[MashBag]

Really don't want a cable gland, was hoping for a port big enough to get a kettle plug through. (35-40mm).

That way I can easily get power and two chiller lines through.


The hole is easy. The closure when not in use is the tricky bit.


Magnetic?