Foray to AG Brewing - Equipment Needed?

[morepunk]

Hi all,

I'm looking to make the transition from extract to all grain, and I'm after some advice about equipment.

I'll be sticking with a 23L brew length, and hope to operate a 3-tier, 2-vessel system whereby the wort will be dispensed back into the boiler following the mash. I don't mind paying a little more for equipment that will last longer or be a lot less work to setup.

My current boiler (converted 5gal bucket courtesy of a late family member) is a little worn, with the control panel coming away, and so I'm looking for a new boiler. With little/no DIY skills, I'm not sure about converting another bucket unless it's really easy. So a few boiler questions:
1. Is it possible/safe for a novice to convert a bucket into a boiler, and if so is there a guide anywhere?
2. If converting a bucket isn't recommended, are there any particular boilers that are well-suited to home brewing (i.e. temperature control for bringing liquor up to strike temperature and for sparge, and offering a good rolling boil for boiling wort)
3. What size boiler would be recommended for a 23 litre brew length?
4. Is a hop strainer required, given that I tend to use hop bags rather than a strainer currently?

I'll also need to invest in a mash tun. Again, this seems like the kind of thing that may involve some DIY, so any links to "How To" guides would be greatly appreciated here! I also have a few mash tun and sparging questions:
5. What is the consensus with regards to false bottoms vs. drilled copper piping. Does one reduce the chances of a stuck sparge over another?
6. With question 5 in mind, what is the best vessel to use as a mash tun? I know a lot of people use converted coolboxes, but I'm guessing it's harder to find a false bottom for coolboxes than it is with conventional mash tuns.
7. Also with question 5 in mind, where would one procure a false bottom should it be the preferred option?
8. What size mash tun would be recommended for a 23 litre brew length?
9. Im hoping to fly sparge, and so what equipment is recommended for this purpose? There seems to be a lot of options here (foil with holes, colander, sparge arm of various sorts, Eskibrew's sparge heads) - Again, I'm willing to spend a little extra here if necessary to ensure a decent sparge.

Finally, in terms of miscellaneous equipment:
10. What size immersion chiller is recommended, and from where are they best purchased?
11. Are there any other items of equipment I might need that I perhaps haven't thought of?

I know this is a lot of questions - sorry about that. Just want to make sure I get it right first time around! I've had a look through a variety of resources and there's a lot of different information out there, which is why I'm posing the questions to you guys!

Thanks for your help,

morepunk

 

[rpt]

I'd be wary of converting plastic buckets as they can get soft at high temperatures, although many have done so. I'd also advise against playing with electrics unless you know what you are doing. Mains electricity can kill.

Have you considered BIAB? I use a 40L Buffalo boiler for 23L brews (see my howto in my sig). If you have a separate mash tun then you can probably get away with a smaller boiler but the head room is useful.

 

[morepunk]

Thanks for the advice rpt. Given that I don't know too much about electrics, I think I'll stay away from that one!

I have considered BIAB, but really want to get into more conventional methods, so advice about sizings assuming a mash tun will be used would be gratefully received.

 

[rpt]

I have considered BIAB, but really want to get into more conventional methods

Why? BIAB makes great beer.

 

[morepunk]

Just personal preference to be honest. I don't doubt the quality of BIAB, just want to give a 3-tiered system a go!

 

[Fil]

Fitting an element can be as simple as pushing thru a hole and tightening up to seal, as many options come neat with socket prongs ready for a kettle lead to just plug in. but the ultra budget option of stripping a £5 kettle isnt advisable if your not confident.

Many folks brew quality beers with minimal biab kit as mentioned, tho brewing the way u want to is why we all mod our kit in slightly different ways.

the cost of a plastic vessel isnt that much cheaper than something in SS, the costs do rise however when tooling up for working and cutting the holes.. however depending on your location a friendly brewkit builder may be generous n led u the bits???

HDPE softens with heat, so if using that dont calibrate sightglasses or dipsticks till u have boiled up in it and let the plastic sit in its new shape..

PP is a better plastic and the copper kettle sells 67l buckets suitable for hlt/boil kettle duty..

For an almost off the shelf boiler/hlt a 40l buffalo is a very good choice, i believe some modification to either upgrade or bypass the thermal cut out may be needed, but its something easy n well documented..
without the mod the element may cut out during a 90 min boil? - its a suck it n see situation afaik. Also consider a tap replacement to enable a syphon to drain as much as possible from the thing and alow hop filter attachment if desired...

i wouldnt consider a chiller an optional extra, i did a couple of no chill experiments.. but a basic coil of soft copper tube is easy to form and can be as simple of complex as u desire..

A good thermometer is worth having..

But fancy sparge heads and the like are best bought after you have brewed and found a real need for em. ive got a box of bits i thought i would use and havent

best way to judge what kit would improve or facilitate a brewday is to have a brewday.. it will make things a lot clearer..

happy brewing

 

[rpt]

I've had no problems with my Buffalo cutting out during twelve 90 minute boils. I also use a no-chill cube which works well.

 

[morepunk]

Thanks both for the advice. From reading the forums, 40 litre Buffalo boilers seem to crop up a lot, and minimal DIY is making it the most appealing option.

Forgive my ignorance, but what's a no chill cube?

 

[rpt]

A no-chill cube is an HDPE jerry can. Instead of chilling the wort you fill the cube with boiling hot wort and seal the lid. You can then just let it cool. I usually pitch the yeast within a day or two, but some have left it for months.