First Tea Urn conversion.

[Richie_asg1]

Bought one last year and slowly accumulated the bits to convert it. Finally got around to putting it together.

It's only 19L, but as it is my first it is a learner and may trade up and do it all again.

The Urn itself had a basic thermostat on the right, black tap and a thermal cutout in the centre at the base. It was cheap at a fiver and the delivery was more than that. Cheap because the base element had crapped out and was a non-runner.

I've used two 1kw angled U elements through the base, along with stainless valve and the coupler turned out to be a perfect fit for the inside of a 12" bazooka filter mesh, so I can slip that off for cleaning.
I've used a stainless waterproof cable gland for the thermocouple and a C100 PID controller giving control to a 25A SSR mounted on the side.

All wiring is silicone high temperature 2.5mm rescued from an old cooker, and all connections are crimped using shakeproof ring terminals or 6.3mm tinned faston connectors. Heatshrink and cableties to keep it tidy.

 

[Rodcx500z]

That looks a tidy job, get a brew on

 

[Richie_asg1]

On test at the moment full of water overnight sitting on brown paper. See if it doesn't leak.

 

[Richie_asg1]

Leaked a few drips overnight from the thermocouple, and it was the weatherproof gland that was not sealing, so added some silicone sealer and reassembled.

Stainless bolts and dome nuts turned up so added them to the punched plate in the first pic to provide a false bottom and protect the elements.

Next stop - wort cooler and I am good to go.

 

[Richie_asg1]

Todays project - wort cooler. T joiners arrived in the post today.
10mm 25ft formed into a double coil working out at 7 coils inside and outside...which meant a bit of maths because one is a smaller diameter and therefore slightly shorter.
They are also left and right hand so the ends line up.

 

[Richie_asg1]

Full test out today with 12mm PVC hose connected up to the tap and the chiller doesn't leak, and gets very cold too.
Tried out the boiler and......no go.
The green light came on saying it was heating, but wasn't, so emptied it and found out I had wired the relay around the wrong way. Didn't notice it was polarised.
So back again and it now works on both elements.

Filled it up and initially said the water temperature was 5°C so thought it was wrong, so tried a digital thermometer - and it was bang on! Gees our water is cold.
Set it to 36°C and turned on both elements and it started heating ok. Got up to 36.....and kept on going?
Ended up at 43°C and maintained that by pulsing. So what is going on here???
It knows it is above the set temperature, so why hold it so high?

 

[Ronnie23]

Ended up at 43°C and maintained that by pulsing. So what is going on here???
It knows it is above the set temperature, so why hold it so high?

First thing that comes to mind is your integral setting on your controller. Is it set to zero?

 

[Richie_asg1]

Very likely as it is all a bit confusing to start with.
It is a REX C100 driving a SSR.

 

[Richie_asg1]

I changed the Integral setting from 240 to 10, and the Derivative from 60 to 20, and seemed to work perfectly then with only minimal overshoot of a degree. Held mash temp at 68°C perfectly for 40 minutes today. Very happy with it. Thanks for the pointer.

The wort cooler worked perfectly. Tap water was about 5°C and chilled 15L from boil to 20°C in 7 minutes.
Perfect length too as the top coil was on a level with the liquid.

Held mash temp with no problem, changed it to 102°C for the boil, but worked best with both elements on. With only 1kW element it kept 100°C but the boil was rolling with few bubbles but not vigorous. Ideal if you wanted to keep boiling water on hand tho. May be good enough?

Bazooka filter got clogged with hops with about 2L to go, so had to remove it and dump the lot out. That needs improvement.

Mounting area for the SSRelay got a bit hot but not excessive as it was also getting heat from above. I wouldn't want to put one in a plastic box, but ok in a larger panel style cabinet. It's alright in the kettle base but would benefit from some air circulation, a fan maybe.

 

[Richie_asg1]

Looking at fitting a pump to it. Bought the pump but I think I want it as a separate unit with a carry handle and feet. Not sure yet when connecting it to the barbed outlet whether the vacuum will collapse the connection hose. I may have to go hard line which would be a bit awkward with a separate pump.

Spotted one of these stainless uprights with a quick disconnect - suitable for recirculation?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-3000P...342863?hash=item21677fb2cf:g:bH4AAOSwyKld8yYe

With one of these at the top, then cut the end off and use a flexible piece of silicone pipe.

£ 7 - £8 each bit.

For reference the tea urn ID is 287mm

 

[druid1966]

wow...very nice work!