Fermzilla All Rounder Question

[Davegase]

You will see I was replying to the person in front. Jesus wept.

Yes I did see that you were replying to the person in front. namely (Brew_DD2)
And as you hadn't got an answer. I was trying to be helpful and point you in the direction of the only current UK supplier of keg king products. Which was brew2bottle.
And as I've said previously in the forum , I have been in contact with keg king in Australia, and they have told me that there will be an announcement soon about a new option for UK supplies of their products.
If you contact them directly they may clarify to you exactly what products will be available. But believe the fermentasaurus you were looking for is discontinued.
I hope you find what you're looking for in the end.

 

[Leon103]

I hope you find what you're looking for in the end.

Yes foxy is sending me the part I need to fix mine and @AngelHomebrew. Sorted me out with an all rounder.

 

[foxy]

You could always go down this route Leon saves mucking around with a bottle.
https://aussiehomebrewer.com/threads/modding-the-fermentasaurus.98202/

 

[fgoulding]

Whilst not the best video demo ever, I’m loving the handles on the Apollo.




The All Rounder handles always struck me as being an afterthought!

 

[nhenson22]

OP here.

Rather than make a new thread, just a quick question. I'm 9 days into fermentation. Tried to take a gravity reading from liquid post, but seems my dip tube/ball lock has immediately clogged with the dry hops floating around (note to self, get a filter on the end of the dip tube next time).

Instead, I have been monitoring the pressure, venting a little and then watching to see if pressure is still increasing. Is this a viable way to ensure fermentation is complete? Is it possible for the pressure to increase after fermentation is finished?
I am conscious that I don't want to leave the hops in there too long and get any grassy flavours as it was quite a big charge, but also dont want to cold crash if fermentation is still going slowly?

Thanks for any advice!

 

[Leon103]

OP here.

Rather than make a new thread, just a quick question. I'm 9 days into fermentation. Tried to take a gravity reading from liquid post, but seems my dip tube/ball lock has immediately clogged with the dry hops floating around (note to self, get a filter on the end of the dip tube next time).

Instead, I have been monitoring the pressure, venting a littler and then watching to see if pressure is still increasing. Is this a viable way to ensure fermentation is complete? Is it possible for the pressure to increase after fermentation is finished?
I am conscious that I don't want to leave the hops in there too long and get any grassy flavours as it was quite a bit charge, but also dont want to cold crash if fermentation is still going slowly?

Thanks for any advice!

Push some co2 down there to unblock it

 

[Davegase]

OP here.

Rather than make a new thread, just a quick question. I'm 9 days into fermentation. Tried to take a gravity reading from liquid post, but seems my dip tube/ball lock has immediately clogged with the dry hops floating around (note to self, get a filter on the end of the dip tube next time).

Instead, I have been monitoring the pressure, venting a littler and then watching to see if pressure is still increasing. Is this a viable way to ensure fermentation is complete? Is it possible for the pressure to increase after fermentation is finished?
I am conscious that I don't want to leave the hops in there too long and get any grassy flavours as it was quite a bit charge, but also dont want to cold crash if fermentation is still going slowly?

Thanks for any advice!

The pressure shouldn't increase once fermentation is complete unless you raise the temperature.
I think you can only really be certain fermentation finished if you can take a sample ! As Leon 103 says,
Try short bursts of CO2 to back through the liquid post, Then you may be able to get a sample.
Is your intention to finish fully carbonated? If the answer is yes and you're using a carbonation calculator like the dr hans calculator and a spunding valve, just wait for the activity to finish. If you've had a good fermentation should be pretty close after 9 days unless it's stalled.
Then If going into a keg, just cold crash !

 

[Bolsover Brewer]

Whilst not the best video demo ever, I’m loving the handles on the Apollo.

The All Rounder handles always struck me as being an afterthought!

You are right, terrible video, embarrassingly so.

OP here.

Rather than make a new thread, just a quick question. I'm 9 days into fermentation. Tried to take a gravity reading from liquid post, but seems my dip tube/ball lock has immediately clogged with the dry hops floating around (note to self, get a filter on the end of the dip tube next time).

Instead, I have been monitoring the pressure, venting a little and then watching to see if pressure is still increasing. Is this a viable way to ensure fermentation is complete? Is it possible for the pressure to increase after fermentation is finished?
I am conscious that I don't want to leave the hops in there too long and get any grassy flavours as it was quite a big charge, but also dont want to cold crash if fermentation is still going slowly?

Thanks for any advice!

Fermentation time is yeast strain dependent. According to Dr Chris White 3 to 10 days is rule of thumb, most will leave in the primary fermenter for 14 days. Temperature fluctuations will govern the venting, as it warms CO2 is released from the solution, cools and CO2 re-enters the solution.
To late now but you can dry hop as you go into cold crash.

 

[Brew_DD2]

Whilst not the best video demo ever, I’m loving the handles on the Apollo.




The All Rounder handles always struck me as being an afterthought!

Looks like a well thought-out piece of kit. Those handles give me the fear though.

 

[Davegase]

Looks like a well thought-out piece of kit. Those handles give me the fear though.

I'll be getting 1 when they are available here. But the handles concern me too , coming out at right angles is not ideal !!!

 

[foxy]

In the s/steel frame there is no need to use the handles, carry by the frame. I carry mine by the integrated handles they are strong, same ones as on the 60 litre. I have mine on the top of a reversed keg chime so have to carry by the handles.

 

[Bolsover Brewer]

In the s/steel frame there is no need to use the handles, carry by the frame. I carry mine by the integrated handles they are strong, same ones as on the 60 litre. I have mine on the top of a reversed keg chime so have to carry by the handles.

View attachment 65928

Thinking about this, not much needed to hold it in place, and makes for a low profile fermenter. What is the total height of the fermenter, I wont be using a spunding valve just the blue PRV so height to the top of a disconnect. Thanks.

 

[foxy]

Thinking about this, not much needed to hold it in place, and makes for a low profile fermenter. What is the total height of the fermenter, I wont be using a spunding valve just the blue PRV so height to the top of a disconnect. Thanks.

From the base to the top of the disconnect is 580 mm

 

[RoomWithABrew]

Neither would I, but if they're not producing them it's the only thing you can do.
Maybe Leon 103 should start a new thread to see if you can find some new old stock of fermentasaurus.
This thread did actually start out about the firmzilla all-rounder !

I know that www.thebrewhouse.co.nz has fermentasaurus pressure vessels for sale, some are " past there use by date " but they seem to work fine for me.
I've only bought one of my five fermentasaurus new, the rest have all been " second hand ". Not sure I can get one in my luggage when I come back on holiday in June.

 

[RoomWithABrew]

There will be a PET snub-nosed version of the Apollo plus the Apollo unitank with the new plunger dump valve.

I don't like the plunger dump valve. You have to release the pressure in the fermenter to allow you to pull the plunger up and collect more trub / yeast. Hopeless for the real benefits of pressure fermenting. Take the plunger off and have the advantage of a bigger drain hole but fit a butterfly valve.

 

[Eskdale]

I don't like the plunger dump valve. You have to release the pressure in the fermenter to allow you to pull the plunger up and collect more trub / yeast. Hopeless for the real benefits of pressure fermenting. Take the plunger off and have the advantage of a bigger drain hole but fit a butterfly valve.

I can see the advantages of the plunger. Firstly if you can't separate the trub in the kettle put everything in the fermenter, let it all settle remove the trub. If you are going to dry hop and want to save your yeast, release the pressure drop the yeast from the fermenter, dry hop then add pressure. Much the same as a craft brewery would do it except they wouldn't wait until fermentation is finished and wouldn't bother adding more pressure.
If you are going to Melbourne for your holiday, go to The Stomping Ground in Collingwood, take the brewery tour and say Emma says hello.

Emma

 

[Davegase]

I don't like the plunger dump valve. You have to release the pressure in the fermenter to allow you to pull the plunger up and collect more trub / yeast. Hopeless for the real benefits of pressure fermenting. Take the plunger off and have the advantage of a bigger drain hole but fit a butterfly valve. Otherwise the collection vessel will be pressurised.

I would have thought that the dump valve should be open until you want to collect, then depressurised, close dump valve and remove collection vessel. The same should apply for plunger or butterfly valve.

 

[RoomWithABrew]

@Eskdale
The trouble is if you release the pressure all of the yeast gets stirred up so there's not a big plug to drop into the collection bottle just uniform yeasty beer.
You can " do it like a craft brewery " with the butterfly valve and collection bottle, the yeast settles and fills the bottle. Close the butterfly, carefully remove the bottle ( slowly to release the pressure and avoid a beer shower) wash and sanitise bottle, fill it via the liquid out with beer and foam and reattach the bottle ( to reduce oxygen getting back in the fermenter). Then open the butterfly valve and it does get stirred up again and then more yeast will fall into the bottle.
Hop debris can also be removed this way keeping the beer under pressure all the time so no oxygen gets in.
I will get back to Melbourne at some stage, last trip was for the cancelled Covid grand prix, I think they cancelled because we pulled the plug on the Monday before the race!!

 

[GhostDoggyWoofWoof]

Ther are not universal - I tried the KK ones on my Allrounders and they leaked. Kegland warn that a PRV should never replace a spunding valve - it only requires a bit of krausen sticking the PRV shut and boom. That is probably what happened to the FZ ullustrated in post #15.

Yes, I have discovered this, my KK Gen 3 blew off the trub collector bottle. Fortunately the plunger valve saved the rest of my brew. Spunding valve ordered.

 

[RoomWithABrew]

@GhostDoggyWoofWoof
That sounds like a lucky escape.
The plunger on the Gen 3 is a nightmare design for pressure fermenting. Great for non pressure ferments as a conical, mine is reserved for wine and open ferments.