Courage Directors

[user 18576]

Well I've just bought bucket & barrels to re-start brewing again after 30 years break. I bought a Courage Directors kit to start me off.
However on reading the instructions already I'm baffled, it says (briefly) -
ferment in the bucket until fermentation complete (OK so far),
but then it says syphon into a fermenting bin add the conditioning sugar for
3 days then bottle or keg as normal.

So, is syphoning into the second fermenting container necessary or can
I go straight from fermenting bucket to barrel?

Also, If I do follow the instructions and add conditioning sugar for the 3 days
in the fermenting bin do I need to add more conditioning sugar when I barrel
the brew?

Confused already,

Paul.

P.S. Is ordinary white table sugar OK for conditioning bitters or is
brown or other best?

Questions Questions, Many thanks in advance. (I need a drink).

 

[Clint]

Right...
The kit instructions can be both optimistic and vague..
Fermentation. ..make up the kit as follows..
Sterilise everything!
Heat tins in a bowl of hot water to soften the extract.
Pour into fv. Rinse tins out with boiled water out of the kettle is fine.
Top up fv to 23 litres. I use tap water as mine is OK. This time of year the incoming temp is cooler but look at your temp strip to aim for a pitching temp for your yeast. ..about 20 °c.
Using a sterilised spoon or paddle give it a good thrashing to aerate! Take hydrometer reading. Fit airlock.
Place fv in a warm-ish place with a constant temp if possible and leave for AT LEAST 2 WEEKS! DO NOT FIDDLE WITH IT!
After 2 weeks take hydrometer reading if it is where expected take another couple over the next 2 days. If it is stable you can bottle or keg.
For bottling you can put a carbonation drop or half teaspoon of normal sugar into each bottle and fill directly. Or you can batch prime by putting all the sugar into a separate bottling bucket with bottling wand and go from there...this is easier!
Place your filled bottles in a warm dark place for 2 weeks to carbonate. Then move somewhere cool to condition for at least a couple of weeks.

 

[Graz]

That doesn't sound right to me. The reason for adding more sugar at the end of fermentation is to carbonate the beer whether it be in a pressure barrel or bottles. If you left it in a fermenting bucket for three days you'd end up losing most of the CO2 that will carbonate the beer.

I've been brewing kits for so long I hardly ever look at the instructions. Assuming everything you're using is clean and sanitised this is how I do it:

About 15-20 minutes beforehand put tins / pouches in hot water to soften up the contents.

Put the kettle on to boil.

Empty the tins / pouches into the fermenter.

Rinse out all the remaining malt from the cans using hot water (I usually mix a bit of cold in the with water from the kettle). Try to keep the amount of boiling water to around 1 kettle full otherwise the wort may end up too hot to pitch the yeast.

With the malt plus hot water now in the fermenter give it all a good stir to dissolve the malt. You'll be able to feel when it's all gone.

Now top up the fermenter with cold water to the desired level (typically 5 gallons / 22.5L). When it's getting close to full check the temp, if above 20°C keep adding cold, if below add a bit more hot water. Pour the water in from height to aid oxygenation of the water.

Give it a good stir.

Optionally take a gravity reading.

Sprinkle on the yeast.

Fit the lid and crack the seal slightly to let the gas out when fermenting.

Now stick it somewhere that's going to be at a constant temperature hopefully around 20°C.

Leave for 2 weeks. (I like to make sure it's got underway after a day or two by cracking the lid open for a peak, it there's a big frothy head on it (krausen) then it's working.)

Take another gravity reading, if it's finished it should read 1.010 - 1.016 depending on the beer, but typically it will be done in 2 weeks anyway.

Add priming sugar to the barrel, I use brewing sugar but ordinary white granulated is fine (as is dried malt extract or anything else you fancy using e.g. demerara).

Carefully syphon the beer from the fermenter into the barrel leaving behind as much of the the yeast sediment as possible.

Put the lid on the barrel and put it back in the warm place to allow secondary fermentation to happen. I usually allow 2 weeks but in reality it's probably all over in 3-5 days.

You can now move the barrel somewhere cooler ideally leaving for at least another two weeks and then you can start drinking it :thumb:

 

[user 18576]

Thanks for the replies.
Good job I questioned the instructions and not just pressed on - nearly finished up with a batch of flat beer,
I'd have been crying into my (Tesco bought) bitter!

Paul.

 

[user 18576]

Quick update for Courage Directors,
Has been fermenting for 7 days now and the O.G. is down to 1020.
I have got the bucket standing on a Dreamland heating & warming pad (normally for aches & pains).
Seems to work quite well and it does have 3 heat settings, but position 1 seems to OK for keeping it at 20C,
Perhaps an hour at position 2 in a morning after a cold night when the CH has been off.

I have a Balliihoo barrel waiting for said brew.
Will TRY and keep the beer for xmas, Should be nicely matured by then.

Also I have a Festival IPA Razorback kit to get on the go as soon as the bucket is empty, also another barrel.

The wife says all can see these days is a backside up in the air as I'm frequently keeping a eye on the temp gauge
on the side of the bucket!!!

Paul

 

[Clint]

Tis very stressful brewing beer!

 

[user 18576]

Me again,
I have yet another question.
I have bought some 'brewing sugar' ready for when I barrel the beer.
The instructions suggest 85g of sugar for the 36 pint kit, (also read elsewhere 85 - 100g).
So do you use brewing sugar in the same quantities (by weight) as ordinary white sugar or is it more concentrated?
Feeling through the clear plastic bag it seems to have the consistency of white flour - I wasn't expecting that.

Once again thanks in advance for any advice and hints,

Paul.

 

[terrym]

Me again,
I have yet another question.
I have bought some 'brewing sugar' ready for when I barrel the beer.
The instructions suggest 85g of sugar for the 36 pint kit, (also read elsewhere 85 - 100g).
So do you use brewing sugar in the same quantities (by weight) as ordinary white sugar or is it more concentrated?
Feeling through the clear plastic bag it seems to have the consistency of white flour - I wasn't expecting that.

Once again thanks in advance for any advice and hints,

Paul.

If you use one of the priming calculators you need more dextrose (brewing sugar) by weight compared to table sugar. So 85g table sugar is about 95g dextrose or as near as makes no difference. Personally I only use table sugar for priming, it's cheap and it does the job.
https://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/

I see you have a Balliihoo PB. If its a new one I suggest you check it over for leaks before you use it.
More here
Guide to a Standard Home Brew Pressure Barrel
One of our members has struggled with leaks on his Balliihoo PB and in the end found a cracked cap, so you are well advised to check that too.

 

[foxbat]

So do you use brewing sugar in the same quantities (by weight) as ordinary white sugar or is it more concentrated?
Feeling through the clear plastic bag it seems to have the consistency of white flour - I wasn't expecting that.

Same as table sugar. 85g is enough, in my opinion, for 20.5 litres of ale. Ale should not be fizzy and 85g will get you an appropriate level of carbonation.

Did you get down past your 1.020 gravity? It's always ominous when someone says, 'hey, it's been a week and I'm at 1.020'.

 

[user 18576]

Same as table sugar. 85g is enough, in my opinion, for 20.5 litres of ale. Ale should not be fizzy and 85g will get you an appropriate level of carbonation.

Did you get down past your 1.020 gravity? It's always ominous when someone says, 'hey, it's been a week and I'm at 1.020'.

Ah thanks for that - same as table sugar!
Just this second checked - 1.017 Gravity. That's after 8 days,
I can still see some bubbles but it appears to be slowing down and starting to
clear a bit near the top.
Would you say that's good, bad or indifferent?

Paul

 

[user 18576]

If you use one of the priming calculators you need more dextrose (brewing sugar) by weight compared to table sugar. So 85g table sugar is about 95g dextrose or as near as makes no difference. Personally I only use table sugar for priming, it's cheap and it does the job.
https://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/

I see you have a Balliihoo PB. If its a new one I suggest you check it over for leaks before you use it.
More here
Guide to a Standard Home Brew Pressure Barrel
One of our members has struggled with leaks on his Balliihoo PB and in the end found a cracked cap, so you are well advised to check that too.

Thanks for the info about the barrel.
I will check the tap & valves tightness before sticking the beer in.
However, the barrels I recieved have been certified tested so I'm hoping
they will be OK.

Paul

 

[foxbat]

Ah thanks for that - same as table sugar!
Just this second checked - 1.017 Gravity. That's after 8 days,
I can still see some bubbles but it appears to be slowing down and starting to
clear a bit near the top.
Would you say that's good, bad or indifferent?

It's fine, though a little slow to finish which does seem common to kits. The bulk of the fermentation is done and you'll probably see a drop of a further 2-ish points over the next week as the yeast finishes off and drops dormant then you can bottle or keg.

 

[user 18576]

It's fine, though a little slow to finish which does seem common to kits. The bulk of the fermentation is done and you'll probably see a drop of a further 2-ish points over the next week as the yeast finishes off and drops dormant then you can bottle or keg.

Thanks again for that.

Am I right in understanding then that you don't have to be in any great rush
to bottle or keg after fermentation has finished - as long as it's kept with the lid
on it can just sit there dormant for a few days or more without going off.

Is that right?

Paul

 

[RichK]

In the short time I've been making beer kits, one thing I've learned is that patience is rewarded. A few extra days sat before packaging won't be a problem & is more likely to be beneficial

 

[terrym]

Thanks again for that.

Am I right in understanding then that you don't have to be in any great rush
to bottle or keg after fermentation has finished - as long as it's kept with the lid
on it can just sit there dormant for a few days or more without going off.

Is that right?

Paul

In my view that's correct.
Most of my beers stay at least 16 days in the FV. That gives them plenty of time to ferment out, yeast to clean up and yeast to drop sufficient for packaging clear or nearly clear beer.

 

[user 18576]

Many thanks to all of you who have answered my questions so far, you all have been most helpful.

But I now have yet another question.
The FV has an airlock fitted, It has been fermenting now for 11 days, and when I last checked 2/3 days ago it was down to 1.017
(from 1.048 prior to pitching the yeast).
Often observing the FV the air lock has never bubbled - although the lid has domed up a bit and if I start to press it the water
in the airlock starts to move, the lid is clipped on tight and is kept on a heating pad at about 19-20c
On surfing throu' this site reading other people's experiences I notice airlocks have been quite busy venting gas during primary.
Howcome then mine has not?

All answers most appreciated

Paul

 

[sdt7618]

Paul, I would just leave it alone, personally and like Clint, terry etc have said time is your friend here. Give it a good two weeks, then check if it's still 1.017 give the fv a gentle swirl then leave for a few days. 1.017 is a little high to to considering kegging.

Patience will pay you dividends with kits and any other brew type you get into

 

[user 18576]

Paul, I would just leave it alone, personally and like Clint, terry etc have said time is your friend here. Give it a good two weeks, then check if it's still 1.017 give the fv a gentle swirl then leave for a few days. 1.017 is a little high to to considering kegging.

Patience will pay you dividends with kits and any other brew type you get into

Ah no, I wasn't considering kegging yet till about the 2 weeks is up.
I was just wondering why I've seen no airlock activity.
(But I know you can't watch it all the time).
Although does appear to be fermenting OK.
Perhaps 18-20c is a little on the low side?

 

[sdt7618]

18-20 is just fine mate, the airlock will have slowed down or stopped, just what happens. Wouldn't worry Bout it. I now try and not even look after the first 24 hrs otherwise you could go insane watching it. Hung mine in th brew fridge check 24 hrs later to see that she has started and then close the door and look again in a fortnight

 

[terrym]

Ah no, I wasn't considering kegging yet till about the 2 weeks is up.
I was just wondering why I've seen no airlock activity.
(But I know you can't watch it all the time).
Although does appear to be fermenting OK.
Perhaps 18-20c is a little on the low side?

If you believe its still fermenting, i.e remains of the krausen on top, its not yet clearing, and the SG is higher than you would expect, but there are no bubbles coming through the airlock, it is highly likely you have a tiny leak between the FV and it's lid. It might look sealed but it isn't. It's quite a common thing to happen. So you either put up with it, or if you are desperate to see bubbles, take the lid off put four strips of cling film over the rim of the FV to completely cover the rim, replace the lid and that should seal it. You should then see bubbles, alleluia. Personally I'd just leave it. It's finished when it's finished. And 18-20*C is fine.