Cornie to beer engine via bits

[damfoose]

Hi folks this is just so I get it right.
I can go from cornie using 3/8 beer line to beer chiller then from beer chiller to check-valve using 3/8 beer line then 3/8 to 3/16 reducer then 3/16 to 3/8 to beer engine using as short as possible bit of 3/8 but as my beer engine is a double pull type with 2 inputs one for the pull and one for the push im going to have to put a Y piect in place which is going to extend the 3/8 to about 5 inches or so. The beer is not going to be carbonated or at least it will have a little carbonation but not much.

Question is will this work OK ?

 

[trunky]

My set up will be 3/8 from corney to chiller, 3/8 from chiller to check valve then 10mm(ish) from check valve to engine - about 12 inches of it. Only reason for the 10mm is that is what the barbs on the engine and check valve dictate. I'd be suprised if you could wazz beer fast enought through the 3/16 tube for a beer engine

 

[BrewStew]

if it's gunna be flat (or close) there's no need to reduce your line widths ... i'm assuming your thoughts on this were to reduce foaming?

you might also want to consider getting a cask breather from paul at barley bottom. this goes between your gas reg and keg, and you can Tee off the cask breather and have that gas line hooked up to as many kegs as hand pulls

even though i can **just** about set my reg to 1PSI, it's a fiddly business... get it wrong or if the regulator plays up, the beer will be pushed through the engine and will drip/flow by itself.

 

[Aleman]

Keep it at 3/8 al the way If you go to 3/16 you will end up with foam . . . Commercially the runs are generally 1/2" . . . and even there, on a long run they will use a floJet before the CV to pump the beer to avoid fobbing in the lines (The true purpose of a check Valve )