Confused newbie

[grumpy Tim]

Yes that is what is being said. I personally think it's a pain in the armpit method, but many do it this way.

Dosing bottles is quicker and easier and less washing up in my experience.

But different folks different strokes.

Or... Try it and then buy a zevro, you will appreciate it all the more

Thank you everyone who replied just wanted it explaining clearly as it's my first time

 

[Desmnd]

Ok first off. You need to watch the air gap. A 1/2 inch gap is about right. Adding sugar will cause a secondary fermentation. This means more alcohol and more gas. If the air gap is too small that means more pressure and you could end up with exploding bottles. And we have all experienced that. If the pressure is to high, as soon as you take the cap of the beer, the beer will gas up inside. This means bubbles rising and taking the sediment with it. Finings need to be done before bottling. The beer should be clear before bottling. Clear is not totally clear and you will get sediment at the bottom of the bottles. Keeping your beer cold during fermentation and secondary fermentation before bottling (for me) is difficult with the summer heat. And you will also have to learn the art of poring the beer into a glass without disturbing the sediment. I went down the route of having the bottles on an angle so the sediment was in the bottom corner of the bottle. If you do this next time, I would look into getting a keg. Cleaning out 40 bottles every time is hard work not to mention the time it takes to fill all the bottles versus one keg. Hope this helps. Don’t forget there are people on this forum who have been doing this for years and still learning. You never stop.



Twopoint talks of a Beer club. I have not seen one around here (Malton UK)

 

[grumpy Tim]

Ok first off. You need to watch the air gap. A 1/2 inch gap is about right. Adding sugar will cause a secondary fermentation. This means more alcohol and more gas. If the air gap is too small that means more pressure and you could end up with exploding bottles. And we have all experienced that. If the pressure is to high, as soon as you take the cap of the beer, the beer will gas up inside. This means bubbles rising and taking the sediment with it. Finings need to be done before bottling. The beer should be clear before bottling. Clear is not totally clear and you will get sediment at the bottom of the bottles. Keeping your beer cold during fermentation and secondary fermentation before bottling (for me) is difficult with the summer heat. And you will also have to learn the art of poring the beer into a glass without disturbing the sediment. If you do this next time, I would look into getting a keg. Cleaning out 40 bottles every time is hard work not to mention the time it takes to fill all the bottles versus one keg. Hope this helps. Don’t forget there are people on this forum who have been doing this for years and still learning. You never stop.



Twopoint talks of a Beer club. I have not seen one around here (Malton UK)

Thank you so many helpful friendly people on here

 

[MashBag]

Cleaning out 40 bottles every time is hard work...

Don't let them get dirty then
Wash as you drink, store with a quick spritz vodka and pop taper cork - when was the last time you found a bottle of mouldy gin?

 

[Desmnd]

I do clean but give a quick steralising of all my equiptment hands and arms.

As for air gap. In the bottles the gas will build up and the process will slow down. All you need is enough sugar to keep it lively and not go flat. Not to lively to explode or to lively to fiz up and bring the sediment up. When I did this, I only put a level tea spoon at best into the bottles. The beer is still lively anyway and this is cust a small top up.

 

[Brewshed]

I transfer the beer to an upended polypin with an airlock after a few days of fermentation and let it finish off fermenting in that so most trub has been removed. I can then bottle directly from that. I find the easiest way is to make up a solution of finings and sugar (for a 20 litre brew about 6g gelatine and 80g caster sugar in a final volume of 200ml) and I then add 5ml per bottle with a syringe after filling. This makes it really easy and accurate.

 

[MartinF]

I transfer the beer to an upended polypin with an airlock after a few days of fermentation and let it finish off fermenting in that so most trub has been removed. I can then bottle directly from that. I find the easiest way is to make up a solution of finings and sugar (for a 20 litre brew about 6g gelatine and 80g caster sugar in a final volume of 200ml) and I then add 5ml per bottle with a syringe after filling. This makes it really easy and accurate.

Just wondering what size bottles your 5ml/bottle relates to? Presumably 500ml?

 

[Brewshed]

Just wondering what size bottles your 5ml/bottle relates to? Presumably 500ml?

Yes 500ml. So it works out at about 2g sugar per bottle.

 

[tutshiveandspile]

When my fermenting beer has reached target fg . I transfer it to a 25 litre pressure barrel. With a cap fitted with an airlock. Leave for 3 days to settle. Pour the lot including any yeast settlement. Into my bottling bucket.
Add 1/2 teaspoon cane sugar per 500ml bottle. And cap. Keep warm for 5 days. Then move to outside brick shed to mature for 2 weeks
Been doing it this way for over 20 years now.

 

[Desmnd]

Never used a polypin. I saw it mentioned years agon in a book "Brewing beers like ythouse you buy"By Dave Line in the 80s.

 

[tutshiveandspile]

Another name for polypin is cubitainer.Sold in many sizes on the
interweb. Mostly superceded by the bag in a box container.

 

[LordDaveM]

Another newbie here, so a couple of weeks off but I didn't realise I needed a bottling bucket !

I did wonder how to bottle ? but was going to use a syphon and go fermentation bucket to 500ml bottles, is this bad ??

And adding sugar, I did read a suggestion of using sugar sticks (as provided in some Cafes / coffee shops) the poster suggested 1 stick is perfect for a 500ml bottle, a good or bad idea ?

Lastly, I'd assumed it's white granulated sugar but can brown sugar be used ? I'd guess and read in another post it'll affect the taste, personally I like brown sugar and my brew kit instructions doesn't specify ?

 

[klaus]

Another newbie here, so a couple of weeks off but I didn't realise I needed a bottling bucket !

I did wonder how to bottle ? but was going to use a syphon and go fermentation bucket to 500ml bottles, is this bad ??

And adding sugar, I did read a suggestion of using sugar sticks (as provided in some Cafes / coffee shops) the poster suggested 1 stick is perfect for a 500ml bottle, a good or bad idea ?

Lastly, I'd assumed it's white granulated sugar but can brown sugar be used ? I'd guess and read in another post it'll affect the taste, personally I like brown sugar and my brew kit instructions doesn't specify ?

I have never used a bottling bucket, you don't need one (unless perhaps you do batch priming). Just syphon off the fermenter and just be careful when reaching the bottom of the bucket.

 

[jeremy Hall]

Another newbie here, so a couple of weeks off but I didn't realise I needed a bottling bucket !

I did wonder how to bottle ? but was going to use a syphon and go fermentation bucket to 500ml bottles, is this bad ??

And adding sugar, I did read a suggestion of using sugar sticks (as provided in some Cafes / coffee shops) the poster suggested 1 stick is perfect for a 500ml bottle, a good or bad idea ?

Lastly, I'd assumed it's white granulated sugar but can brown sugar be used ? I'd guess and read in another post it'll affect the taste, personally I like brown sugar and my brew kit instructions doesn't specify ?

I've never used a bottling bucket, and I don't know what it is? Never used sugar sticks, but I don't see why not. I often use demerera sugar, or a mix of demerera and white. Never tried brown. I Syphon, although I'd prefer a tap and bottle spear thingy.

 

[Steven Thompson]

Another newbie here, so a couple of weeks off but I didn't realise I needed a bottling bucket !

I did wonder how to bottle ? but was going to use a syphon and go fermentation bucket to 500ml bottles, is this bad ??

And adding sugar, I did read a suggestion of using sugar sticks (as provided in some Cafes / coffee shops) the poster suggested 1 stick is perfect for a 500ml bottle, a good or bad idea ?

Lastly, I'd assumed it's white granulated sugar but can brown sugar be used ? I'd guess and read in another post it'll affect the taste, personally I like brown sugar and my brew kit instructions doesn't specify ?

Hi Dave,

You can see a vid of John Palmer using a bottling bucket - method 2 in the video. This is how I approach it.

I use this priming sugar calculator to work our how much sugar I will need. Beer Priming Sugar Calculator | Brewer's Friend

I would have not have thought there will be too much character from the sugar left over to leave a noticeable taste. If you like a brown sugar taste, try Pheonix hops which have a molasses/dark sugar syrup character. I've found them to work well with an ESB recipe with Goldings.

 

[MashBag]

I've never used a bottling bucket, and I don't know what it is? Never used sugar sticks, but I don't see why not. I often use demerera sugar, or a mix of demerera and white. Never tried brown. I Syphon, although I'd prefer a tap and bottle spear thingy.

"I've never used a bottling bucket, and I don't know what it is?"

Pointless

Syphon with a party tap, with a bit of gas hose in the outlet.

 

[The Baron]

Bottling buckets are just another risk of contamination and oxidising the beer IMO.
Not essential straight from the FV

 

[dad_of_jon]

Bottling buckets are just another risk of contamination and oxidising the beer IMO.
Not essential straight from the FV

This is what I do nowadays but you get more trub. I make a sugar solution 160g in 350/400ml water and inject 4-7 ml in per bottle. I find it quicker overall than having to clean an additional bucket at bottling time.

 

[Justin Dean]

Batch prime with sugar then bottle will give you more consistency across bottles and get rid of the per bottle injecting…