Conflicting Instructions

[Hopperty]

Coopers Golden Crown Lager

The online instructions suggest fermenting between 20 & 25°c
https://www.mrbeer.com/thomas-coope...ext=This mixture of unfermented beer,70°-76°F.

The instructions on the packet says 13 to 15ºC

Which do I follow ?

 

[RichardM]

Does it say what the yeast is? If it is lager yeast the 13 to 15, but if it is ale yeast (as many kits are apparently) then 20 to 22

 

[Hopperty]

Yeast packet just says "Thomas Coopers Yeast 7g"
and on the back of the packet it has the code 21719 GDL

It does say in the instruction to add the yeast when the wort is 21 to 24 then to ferment at 13 -15

 

[RichardM]

That doesn't sound like enough yeast, especially if it is lager yeast. I would expect an 11g packet. Does it look like this? Coopers Yeast for home brew ale beer brewing 7g sachet Diy Beer Fast Delivery | eBay
That sounds like an ale yeast to me. If I was in your position I would buy a sachet of lager yeast and use that, at the lower temperature range.

 

[Obadiah Boondoggle]

I often receive conflicting instructions from Mrs OB

I usually find it safer just to smile and say OK

 

[Hopperty]

That doesn't sound like enough yeast, especially if it is lager yeast. I would expect an 11g packet. Does it look like this? Coopers Yeast for home brew ale beer brewing 7g sachet Diy Beer Fast Delivery | eBay
That sounds like an ale yeast to me. If I was in your position I would buy a sachet of lager yeast and use that, at the lower temperature range.

This is the yeast packs, the opened one is the one I have pitched this evening into the lager, the other one is from a "Preaches Hefe Wheat Beer" kit that I have brewed very successfully a few times at 20-21c

I'm thinking this is just an ale yeast and guess I should brew at 20-21c ?

I did not find the instruction on the can until after the job was done, they are on the inside of the label - I just used the online instructions.
Here is what the can says

I have it sitting now at 19C, but really need to know should I go with 14 or 20 ?

If I get it wrong what would be the consequences ?
And how would I know it was going wrong ?

 

[foxy]

Go with the 20 C as mentioned above not enough yeast for a lager. It won't be wrong, just be a pseudo lager.

 

[Lawrence22]

You often pitch a yeast at a slightly higher temperature than you ferment it at. So this may be a genuine lager yeast. Probably best to mail the manufacturer of the kit though to be sure.

 

[Lawrence22]

14g even for a 1.038 O.G. is probably borderline for a lager but that wouldn't surprise me with some kits.

 

[Hopperty]

14g even for a 1.038 O.G. is probably borderline for a lager but that wouldn't surprise me with some kits.

where do you get 14g from ?

there was only one 7g packet with the kit

 

[Hopperty]

A quick response from Coopers confirms the 13-15 temp is correct and the sachet of yeast is the correct one for the job. So there we have it 7g for a lager.

It is all down to 15c now and it is still fermenting albeit very slowly - can't image this been done in 10 days.

 

[Pirate_Pete]

There is a list of what yeast comes with Coopers beer kits.
But that one isn't on the list. I think this Lager was added after the initial new flavours came out.
I might write to Coopers and ask exactly what yeast is with the kit.
DIY Beer Brew Cans - Yeast Details

Personally I tend to use two packets of yeast when I do a lager. Then I'll keep the yeast to use next time.
At 15 degrees I reckon it'll ferment out OK. You might have to lift the temperature a bit if it sticks.
Is it in a fridge? I tend to take a sample and leave it in my fridge with the hydrometer in place.
That way I can see how the ferment is going.

 

[Tanglefoot]

As comparison, Mangrove Jack's ( I used M84 bohemian lager ) recommend two packs for 23l fermented between 10 - 15 C.
7gms is a small amount to start with, compared to other packs of 10gms.
Under pitching can stress the yeast apparently, better to play it safe for sake of a few quid.

 

[Pirate_Pete]

As comparison, Mangrove Jack's ( I used M84 bohemian lager ) recommend two packs for 23l fermented between 10 - 15 C.
7gms is a small amount to start with, compared to other packs of 10gms.
Under pitching can stress the yeast apparently, better to play it safe for sake of a few quid.

Yes, I agree with the under pitching.
I made a Cooper European Lager and the recipe said two packets of yeast.
I bought 2 packets of Saflager yeast, but I could have just bought one and used the kit yeast. The kit yeast for that one is a lager yeast.
I think it's the Coopers European Lager thread on here that people talk about stuck fermentation.
That's why I always go with two packets on a Lager.
That said I think Hopperty will get away with 7grams of yeast with his Lager.
But he should keep an eye on it and raise the temp if it looks like stalling.
Having said that I would probably ferment that brew at 17 or 18 this time and put it down as a lesson learnt.
Next time make sure it's two packets.

 

[Sandimas]

It almost certainly won't be done in 10 days, I usually find lagers take at least a week longer then ales.

And being a lager yeast you'll probably need to leave it 8-12 weeks after bottling to fully mature.

 

[Clint]

Thread title sounds a bit like when you ask the other half what they want for Christmas and the answer is "nothing".
I did that one year...

 

[Hopperty]

Just an update - I turned the temperature down so as to keep it between 14.5 & 15c . What fermentation I initially had seemed to nearly grind to a halt. However, 4 days on and it now seems to be ticking away nicely. Nothing as vigorous as the wild first few days I get with my normal beers where I can get run-away temperatures and foam coming out of the air lock. But it is most certainly brewing away at its own pace.

I'm guessing the lower temperatures for lager will always mean slower fermentation ?

 

[Pirate_Pete]

Just an update - I turned the temperature down so as to keep it between 14.5 & 15c . What fermentation I initially had seemed to nearly grind to a halt. However, 4 days on and it now seems to be ticking away nicely. Nothing as vigorous as the wild first few days I get with my normal beers where I can get run-away temperatures and foa coming out of the air lock. But it is most certainly brewing away at its own pace.

I'm guessing the lower temperatures for lager will always mean slower fermentation ?

I haven't done a Lager in a while, but I don't recall too much noticeable activity.
The lager yeasts are bottom fermenters.
I think with one packet of yeast 15 degrees is about the lowest I'd go.

 

[Hopperty]

Quantity of yeast;
I thought this was only important to get he fermentation away quickly thus greatly reducing the chance of any other yeasts or infections getting in.

Surely once underway the yeast will just grow / breed exponentially to meet the sugars available for it to feed on. Would only 0.1g not be enough to ferment 50 gallon if the delayed start did not matter.?

 

[Pirate_Pete]

Quantity of yeast;
I thought this was only important to get he fermentation away quickly thus greatly reducing the chance of any other yeasts or infections getting in.

Surely once underway the yeast will just grow / breed exponentially to meet the sugars available for it to feed on. Would only 0.1g not be enough to ferment 50 gallon if the delayed start did not matter.?

I couldn't tell you why but I'm 99% sure it doesn't work like that.
There's a bloke on the Coopers forum who is very keen on this kind of stuff.
Even bought himself a microscope.
To be honest it's a bit beyond me what he does and I don't pretend to understand it.

I generally use a saflager yeast and then reuse the trub. One packet for ales. I don't tend to make them high ABV. so that's OK.
Two packets for lager
Stouts are usually toucans, so both kit yeast.
Seems to work for me.