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Fermentation does not have to be completely finished to bottle as long as your only a couple of points to high you could save a day or two and reduce the amount of priming sugar. Of course you have to be familiar with where your yeast stop first. Kviek always stops for me at 1.011 on my kit and recipe so i'd be ok with bottling at 1.013 ishalso you can find the abv tolerance of a yeast strain like mj bavarian is 8% so if you're happy to brew to that ceiling then when your about 7.5+ abv you know there's less risk of overcarbation as the yeast stop.With either of these methods a pet bottle to monitor carbination is wise. as well as strong bottles used to handling higher carbonation. I cracked a few ale bottles at the start but none since I refined my knowlege of the yeast and switching over to weissbier and belgian beer bottles. I've filled over 4000 bottles and I think I had 4 or 5 tops crack. I've had 1 gusher and the rest of the batch was fine so must have not nuked that bottle fully.
Fermentation does not have to be completely finished to bottle as long as your only a couple of points to high you could save a day or two and reduce the amount of priming sugar. Of course you have to be familiar with where your yeast stop first. Kviek always stops for me at 1.011 on my kit and recipe so i'd be ok with bottling at 1.013 ish
also you can find the abv tolerance of a yeast strain like mj bavarian is 8% so if you're happy to brew to that ceiling then when your about 7.5+ abv you know there's less risk of overcarbation as the yeast stop.
With either of these methods a pet bottle to monitor carbination is wise. as well as strong bottles used to handling higher carbonation. I cracked a few ale bottles at the start but none since I refined my knowlege of the yeast and switching over to weissbier and belgian beer bottles. I've filled over 4000 bottles and I think I had 4 or 5 tops crack. I've had 1 gusher and the rest of the batch was fine so must have not nuked that bottle fully.
