Brewing equiptment

[TAS123]

I'm going to make my first beer and was originally going to just go for a coopers starter kit but was thinking the other day; wonder if I could save a bit of money by buying bits separately?!

So my question is what is the basic equiptment that I'd need?

I've looked at FV in the coopers kits they use a 30L but on most sites they do the 23L and 33L. When you do find a 30L its twice the price. Why is this and could I get away with either of the others? I assume that if your making a 23L kit it won't fit in the 23L FV!

 

[Dieseljockey]

Some guys use the blue mango tubs..cheap if you can get one from a take away.. :thumb:

 

[bobsbeer]

It depends on how much beer you want to make at once. Most 40 pint kits make up to 23lt so you need one at least that size and a bit more to take account of the yeast krauzen. Wilkos is a good place to go and the bit are fairly cheap. If the 33lt is cheaper go with that one it doesn't matter a jot at the early stage. But most Fv's that state 23 lt are probably bigger. Nearer to 25-30 lt total capacity.

 

[Stihler]

You can use a 23 litter fermenter for a 23 litter batch but that leaves no headspace. Should you have a particularly vigorous fermentation this can result in a bit of a mess.

When I first started I was faced with just such an issue. My brew kettle also had about the same maximum capacity. What I did was brew less than the capacity of the fermenter to allow for strong fermentations. Then when I transferred the beer to the secondary fermenter I would boil (to santize and drive off dissolved oxygen) and cool sufficient water to top off the fermenter.

Here is a list of list of items needed to brew your first batch: http://www.mosquitobytes.com/Den/Beer/Hmbrewing/Beginner.html.

This equipment list assumes a 5 U.S. gallon (~19 liter) batch that is boiled.

A hydrometer is not on this list since it is not absolutely necessary to brew your first batch of beer.

As is the case with such things this is an extremely opinionated list of items that one "must have" to brew a batch of beer. Please take it with a grain of salt.

- Scott

 

[bobsbeer]

A hydrometer is not on this list since it is not absolutely necessary to brew your first batch of beer.

I disagree. They are the most useful bit of kit you can get apart from the FV, and are only a few quid. Worth their weight in gold. Get one.

 

[memit]

You should be able to find a good value starter set with a bit of searching. When I bought mine I immediately found a better one here (http://www.biggerjugs.co.uk/starter-bee ... -1042.html) where you could choose your own beer kit, but I haven't looked since.

 

[TAS123]

I have a hydrometer, airlocks and siphon already from my wine brewing so can reuse these :thumb:

The recipe I'm hoping to try is a Coopers Irish red ale. I hope this isn't going to be too hard!

 

[LeedsBrewer]

Heres a list of the basics you'll need if buying individualy from wilkinsons. (Some of which you already have)
viewtopic.php?p=315460#p315460
its a little cheaper than the coopers kit and has a few advantages like getting two fermenters, but then you also dont have a tap on the bottom so may decide to add that yourself at a later time. It also means you get to start on a kit you like instead of just the usual coopers lager.

 

[Stihler]

I disagree. They [hydrometers] are the most useful bit of kit you can get apart from the FV, and are only a few quid. Worth their weight in gold. Get one.

Hmmm...you got me thinking. Perhaps I may add a hydrometer to my list.

I was composing a response and in doing so I found myself at least partially agreeing with you.

Just watching the airlock bubble will tell you if fermentation has stopped.

However, taking an initial gravity reading is useful for determining whether or not your wort has achieved the predicted original gravity value. Of course, if you are just making a kit without your own additions this is not nearly as critical. Having an original gravity reading is a useful bit of information nonetheless.

I believe Bobsbeer has somewhat overstated their usefulness but I agree that a hydrometer should be a part of every brewer's stockpile of equipment.

I am still debating whether or not this piece of equipment is so critical that one needs it before their first batch of beer. I believe the answer is no. A hydrometer is not absolutely necessary for that first batch. However, not having an original gravity reading for that first beer is something I know I would regret. I am glad I had just such a reading for my first batch of beer.

I suspect not having it on my list was more of an oversight than anything else especially since I make no mention of it as an item one should at least eventually purchase. I'm pretty sure I will add a hydrometer to my beginners equipment list. As Bobsbeer mentioned hydrometers are not really all the expensive.

Thanks for changing my mind or rather getting me to change my own mind about hydrometers.

-Scott

P.S. TAS123, buy a hydrometer if you have not already done so!

 

[billy994]

i looked at a coopers starter kit, and to be honest they do sell well.....BUT if you read alot on here about basic kit (im sure there is athread abot it) to start and use the sponsers...and dare i say ebay for bottles, PET 500ml browns, then you can save yourself some money..as i write this im drinking a coopers stout, i highly recommend it...500g brewing sugar...500g of dark malt extract ...works out at less than £1 a pint....anyhow i think my outlay was about £65-70 with postage thats total, kit bottles and a first brew....hope it helps

 

[jonnymorris]

Just watching the airlock bubble will tell you if fermentation has stopped.

Airlock activity is far from a good measure of fermentation finishing. The only accurate and reliable method is using a hydrometer.

 

[Stihler]

Airlock activity is far from a good measure of fermentation finishing. The only accurate and reliable method is using a hydrometer.

More reliable perhaps but withdrawing wort to test with a hydrometer also adds an additional (and I believe unnecessay) risk contamination. Because of this I only check the initial gravity.

Assuming a properly sealed fermenter the lack of airlock bubbles is generally sufficient to tell if fermentation is over.

I'm not going to argue the point. I've been brewing for over 20 years and watching the airlock has never failed me.

Let's just agree to disagree.

- Scott

 

[jonnymorris]

Ever had a stuck brew? If you rely on your airlock and bottle at 1020 you could be in some trouble if/when it starts fermenting again.

 

[Stihler]

Ever had a stuck brew? If you rely on your airlock and bottle at 1020 you could be in some trouble if/when it starts fermenting again.

I can see where that could be a problem. However, in the 21 years of brewing that problem has never arisen. This could be in part because I only use the airlock as a guide when I am ready to bottle/keg which is after my standard seven days in the primary fermenter followed by seven days in the secondary. If there is still activity after the latter seven day period then I wait until it subsides or simply give it another week.

I brew exclusively ales. Were I to brew a lager I might be inclined to risk contamination by taking an occasional hydrometer reading simply because lagers ferment so slowly and I have no real experience with them other than what I have read.

- Scott

 

[bobsbeer]

I believe Bobsbeer has somewhat overstated their usefulness but I agree that a hydrometer should be a part of every brewer's stockpile of equipment.

Errr I don't think so. You can watch bubbles in your airlock till the cows come home, but it won't tell you if your brew has finished fermenting. Only a hydrometer can do that. Is your brew 3% or 8%? Only by taking SG readings will you be able to tell. Have you sparged to the limit? Only a hydrometer will give you an answer. If you kit brew. What is your initial sugar ratio? Only a hydrometer can tell you. Has it finished fermenting? Only a hydrometer will tell you. So for less than £5 you get a wealth of information to inform you about your brew. And as long as you look after it, it will last you a lifetime. If that isn't the best homebrew accessory purchase apart from the FV please give me another example.

 

[rpt]

I've only done a couple of brews but I think a hydrometer is essential. Without one I would never have known that my first brew had stuck (the airlock had stopped) or when it was finally ready to bottle. It gave me confidence that I had properly mixed my second brew.

I don't think an airlock is necessary though. I used one for my first brew but for my second I now have a fermentation fridge - I am having to use a smaller FV without an airlock as the bigger one won't fit.

 

[robsan77]

I never use an airlock. Air escapes from between the rim and lid. I keep an eye on krausen activity then use a sterile turkey baster to remove a sample for the hydrometer. Usually its down where it should be then i check again after 10 days and if the same I bottle or keg or whatever.

 

[Stihler]

I believe folks are kind of missing the point here.

My initial comment (which I've retracted) is that a hydrometer is not essential for making your first beer.

I stand by my claim the the a hydrometer is not worth it's weight in gold and is only second to the fermentation vessel in usefulness.

I would say a brew kettle or a funnel are far more important for that first brew than a hydrometer. You can brew beer without having a hydrometer to start with but not having a kettle or funnel could be tricky. Of course, a funnel is not essential if one uses a bucket for a fermenter. I'm thinking more in terms of using a carboy. What can, I say, that's what I use.

Taking an initial gravity is a good measure of utilization and if you hit or mark. I still will not waste my time and risk contamination taking non-essential hydrometer readings during the course of fermentation. Before the technological age people had been brewing from centuries without the benefit of hydrometers. If you give the beer a stable temperature (within the appropriate range) and enough time it will ferment out with or without your watching over it with your shiney new hydrometer.

Again I will agree to disagree. I believe a hydrometer is a tool very brewer should have. I also believe that one would regret not having at least an original gravity reading for your inaugural brew. Taking additional hydrometer reading are great if you are into that sort of thing. I would rather not risk contamination just let thing progress along. As Charlie would say, "Relax. Not worry. Have a homebrew."

I'm not sure why I am letting your comments get to me. I guess I am a bit surprised that folks just can't let this go. Kind of like me continuing to respond, huh? :mrgreen: I guess it is because I believe I am correct. And, of course, other folks believe they are correct. But in truth we are both correct. True the only way to be 100% certain fermentation has ceased is to take a hydrometer reading. However, you can be 95% sure fermentation is complete if you give a standard ale a week in the primary and a week in the secondary at a stable and appropriate temperature. One can take as many readings as you like but that will not necessarily make the beer any better. Risking contamination to take a wort sample, in my opinion, is not worth it. If you disagree that's okay.

- Scott

 

[TAS123]

Thanks for all the replies guys...

just a shame my first post has turned into what it has!

 

[rpt]

A hydrometer is not essential for brewing beer. However, considering its very low price, it is an extremely good idea to have one.