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Dro

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I have my first ever beer kit (went for the Four Finger Jack American Pale Ale) after a few successful wine kits and I need to buy bottles now. Can anyone recommend a type, for example which type of bottle top? Thanks. Andy. (DRO)
 

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Most people re-use shop bought beer bottles, preferably brown ones as light can degrade beer over time in clear or green bottles. If you're careful opening them you can even re-use the caps. Many use flip top bottles (Grolsch style) or brown PET plastic bottles.

The trouble is that in these weird times you will probably find it difficult to buy things like bottles and caps, so you may need to improvise. Sparkling water and pop bottles can be used as a temporary measure, provided you keep them somewhere dark. Some of the online traders are still operating, but there are delays in shipping.
 
Most people re-use shop bought beer bottles, preferably brown ones as light can degrade beer over time in clear or green bottles. If you're careful opening them you can even re-use the caps. Many use flip top bottles (Grolsch style) or brown PET plastic bottles.

The trouble is that in these weird times you will probably find it difficult to buy things like bottles and caps, so you may need to improvise. Sparkling water and pop bottles can be used as a temporary measure, provided you keep them somewhere dark. Some of the online traders are still operating, but there are delays in shipping.
Thanks for the advice. Never knew that about clear/green bottles and light.
 
If I had to buy bottles, I'd buy these. I've got 72 of them and they're brilliant and can be used over and over again,. You can also judge when they're carbonated by feeling how rigid they are. BUT you can't use a bench capper with them. It must be a lever capper. AND because of the universal pox, BrewUK are reckoning on a week's delivery delay.
https://www.brewuk.co.uk/crown-cap-pet-bottles-500ml-3502.html
 
I mostly use and re-use PET bottles, currently Tesco Tonic Water 1 litre size. When they get a bit bashed up I replace them. As they are clear I store them out of light which is really no great hardship. And the advantages of using PET are that you can squeeze the air out of the bottle at bottling time, which reduces any oxidation potential (you can't do that with glass) and you can tell how the carbing is progressing as the bottles harden up. Some people on here will say that using PET bottles increases the chance of beer oxidation since oxygen can migrate across the bottle wall during storage, but I reject that argument, and to back it up have never noticed any signs of oxidation even for beers that have beer stored in PET for as long as 12 months. So for me the only justification for using glass is that it looks 'nicer'.
 
I agree with that 100%. I've managed to ween the wife of bottles of red wine and onto beer, but haven't managed to get her off Perrier. So the longer we can keep these "indistructible" things from clogging up the oceans, the better in my opinion. But only the session beer goes into litre PETs. When she tells me I'm brewing too much and too often (which I am at the moment) I tell her it's for the environment.
 
If I had to buy bottles, I'd buy these. I've got 72 of them and they're brilliant and can be used over and over again,. You can also judge when they're carbonated by feeling how rigid they are. BUT you can't use a bench capper with them. It must be a lever capper. AND because of the universal pox, BrewUK are reckoning on a week's delivery delay.
https://www.brewuk.co.uk/crown-cap-pet-bottles-500ml-3502.html
Does it matter whether its crown cap or screw cap type PET bottles?
 
I have also stuck to two brands for all my bottles. One is wychwood hobgoblin type, - All their beers are in the same bottle but you do need a bench capper for them. The other is the Magners cider bottles I use only for cider, and keep the boxes they come in.
If you can get hold of flip top bottles then do, but personally I can't stand to drink the stuff.

So my advice is to find a beer you like, and drink a lot of it to save the bottles.
 
"So my advice is to find a beer you like, and drink a lot of it to save the bottles. "
That was my plan... lots of Adnams later, I have a decent bottle collection! I bought a pack of 12 from Brew2Bottle, but still havent opened them!
I continue to buy beer now and then, despite having plenty of my own... and still keep all the bottles. Ask around friends too - people usually have a few waiting for a trip to the bottle bank (not so easy at the moment tho!). I collected loads from workmates - in exchange for a couple of full ones when the brew was ready.
 
The one liter tonic water bottles are great. You can see how clear the beer is getting as it conditions. Also, you can tell how they're pressurizing by how firm the bottle is. The caps last many uses also. I keep a few around just for these reasons.

All the Best,
D. White
 
When it comes to carbonation, what is the preferred way to do that in bottles and how much? Thanks again.
 
I'm no expert but having fun on here. I syphon into another cleaned fermenting vessel (FV), measure the quantity, and use the priming calculator from the link at the top of the page saying calculators. This will give you the quantity of sugar to add for bottle carbonation.
Boil it in a little water to dissolve and sterilise it, then add to the beer. Stir gently. Sometimes I add it while it is transferring.
Then bottle from that.
I've learnt on here of the 2 weeks rule of thumb. 2 weeks in the FV, 2 weeks warm for carbonation, 2 weeks cool to clear but that is about the minimum times.
 
So no adding sugar to the bottled beer? Thanks for the detailed information. Appreciate it.
 
I guess I've been lucky over the years regarding bottles. Started kit brewing in 1968 (a year after legalisation) with 20 brown 2 pint Bulmers cider bottles. Aquired another 20 2 or 3 years later and have used the 40 for kit brewing continually ever since without ever breaking one.

A rare bottle to find now, but a good drink in each one!
 
So no adding sugar to the bottled beer? Thanks for the detailed information. Appreciate it.
The beer in your FV at the end of fermentation contains some CO2, but is essentially 'flat'. So at bottling time you add a little sugar for the residual yeast to consume to carbonate the beer.
A rule of thumb is to use one half tsp of sugar per 500ml bottle to achieve a moderate level of carbing, and about 3/4tsp for higher carbing. You then need to leave the bottles in the warm for two weeks for the yeast to do its job. Then store the beer for another two weeks for it to condition or mature. At which point it should be drinkable and carbonated, but might improve with age depending on what it is.
 
I prime with sugar cubes. Ones I use are Domino's Dots. They are equivalent to a half teaspoon of table sugar. These are also small enough to fit through most bottle neck openings.

One is perfect for a 500ml bottle. Drop it in, fill, cap. I put them in a bowl where I will be filling and drop the required number in the bottle just before filling.

These things are fast and easy.

I know some people that still just measure a half teaspoon of sugar per bottle and drop it in with a funnel.


All the Best,
D. White
 
The beer in your FV at the end of fermentation contains some CO2, but is essentially 'flat'. So at bottling time you add a little sugar for the residual yeast to consume to carbonate the beer.
A rule of thumb is to use one half tsp of sugar per 500ml bottle to achieve a moderate level of carbing, and about 3/4tsp for higher carbing. You then need to leave the bottles in the warm for two weeks for the yeast to do its job. Then store the beer for another two weeks for it to condition or mature. At which point it should be drinkable and carbonated, but might improve with age depending on what it is.
That is great advice and clears it up. Thanks.
 
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