Boiler query and recommendations for new equipment

[Nottsbeer]

Hi, I have a Ritchies boiler (quite old) upon which the thermostat failed quite a few years ago (probably around the time I stopped brewing - pics attached). Having gotten back into the habit, I'm looking at going from kits to try AG (I've been reading the excellent Clibit thread). I used to brew by boiling malt extract in the boiler with hops. I've been playing with the boiler and I can't get it to heat above about 85oC without the thermostat shutting off the element.

I'm contemplating bypassing the thermostat by getting a new cable straight into the element (you can see from the picture that the mails cord goes into the thermostat and then into the feed for the element - I can therefore bypass the thermostat with a new lead). I have an inkbird so I could incorporate that into my setup to add some temperature control. Does this sound like a good idea? I have cleaned the element to ensure there is no buildup of crud which may affect heating. I am presuming that a new element will not solve my issues (going from other threads I've seen).

My other option is to buy a new boiler - I've seen reference to the Fulhorn Mash Kettle - if I buy something new I'd like to get one that is energy efficient (as much as possible). Any recommendations are gratefully received. As I will be brewing in my shed (wife isn't keen on the smell), options of brewing in my kitchen are out, otherwise I'd have gone straight for a large pot!

Many thanks,
john

 

[Rodcx500z]

I have a fullhorn biab, it's just coming up to years old no probs so far i have done lots of brews with it, it has 2 settings 1600w and 900w 2500w in total a timer, in turns of energy used it cost's about a quid to do a brew on a 60 min boil including the mash once up to the boil i knock the 900w switch off i use that for maintaining temp on the mash, you have to buy the bag mine was 20 quid from klarstein, in terms of value for money it's a great bit of kit and will make great beer, i do 23L brews using the dunk spare method

 

[Rodcx500z]

Here’s some pics

 

[Galena]

I can confirm what @Rodcx500z said about the Fullhorn, its a great piece of kit for BIAB and definitely worth getting the Klarstein bag as it has a wire top to keep it open and it is a snug fit. The Klarstein has a false bottom as well which is really useful.
The 3 heat settings are ideal I use 900w for mainyaining mash temp, 1600w for rolling boild and 2500w for quick heating.

I do think it is worth getting a high quality probe thermometer to check the mash temp at the top and recirculating the mash to equalise temperature, I do this by hand with a jug. I also batch sparge and I can get 80% efficiency on a good day.

I do wish they made a slightly larger one, the Klarstein Maischfest has a 35 litre version but there are a few things that put me off, one being that there is no 900w setting.

 

[Nottsbeer]

Here’s some picsView attachment 45086View attachment 45087View attachment 45088View attachment 45086View attachment 45087View attachment 45088

Thanks for your reply. It looks good. I'm planning on doing 10-11l brews due to storage space, but like the idea of having something that will do a 23l brew when wanted

 

[Nottsbeer]

I can confirm what @Rodcx500z said about the Fullhorn, its a great piece of kit for BIAB and definitely worth getting the Klarstein bag as it has a wire top to keep it open and it is a snug fit. The Klarstein has a false bottom as well which is really useful.
The 3 heat settings are ideal I use 900w for mainyaining mash temp, 1600w for rolling boild and 2500w for quick heating.

I do think it is worth getting a high quality probe thermometer to check the mash temp at the top and recirculating the mash to equalise temperature, I do this by hand with a jug. I also batch sparge and I can get 80% efficiency on a good day.

I do wish they made a slightly larger one, the Klarstein Maischfest has a 35 litre version but there are a few things that put me off, one being that there is no 900w setting.
[/QUOTE
Thanks for that.

 

[Rodcx500z]

One thing i forgot to say it is sold as 30L but the max mark is only 27L but it's a great little kettle well woth the money i paid 174-99 for mine and have no regrets

 

[Wynne]

Hi, I have a Ritchies boiler (quite old) upon which the thermostat failed quite a few years ago (probably around the time I stopped brewing - pics attached). Having gotten back into the habit, I'm looking at going from kits to try AG (I've been reading the excellent Clibit thread). I used to brew by boiling malt extract in the boiler with hops. I've been playing with the boiler and I can't get it to heat above about 85oC without the thermostat shutting off the element.

I'm contemplating bypassing the thermostat by getting a new cable straight into the element (you can see from the picture that the mails cord goes into the thermostat and then into the feed for the element - I can therefore bypass the thermostat with a new lead). I have an inkbird so I could incorporate that into my setup to add some temperature control. Does this sound like a good idea? I have cleaned the element to ensure there is no buildup of crud which may affect heating. I am presuming that a new element will not solve my issues (going from other threads I've seen).

My other option is to buy a new boiler - I've seen reference to the Fulhorn Mash Kettle - if I buy something new I'd like to get one that is energy efficient (as much as possible). Any recommendations are gratefully received. As I will be brewing in my shed (wife isn't keen on the smell), options of brewing in my kitchen are out, otherwise I'd have gone straight for a large pot!

Many thanks,
john

I use a Burco Cygnet 30 litre which I find robust and reliable. It is about half the price of the Fullhorn but as its a catering urn, I needed to change the tap. it has a single, 2.5kW concealed element and no false bottom. There is a thermal cut-out which I by-passed so that it will maintain a rolling boil with wort. I’ve also assembled one of @foxbat’s power regulators to control the boil intensity.

https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/...a-cheap-digital-boiler-power-regulator.74112/
I am happy with the the Cygnet and enjoy “tinkering” but the Fullhorn seems more fully-featured and designed for home brew use, “you pays your money and you takes your choice”.

 

[Nottsbeer]

Hi Wynne, thanks for your reply. I've also looked at the catering option and they also look good. Thx for the link to foxbats how to guide....maybe just what I need to modify my current boiler. If this works I should be good to go .

 

[Bill_g]

Really just to endorse what's been said above. Seems to me no need to buy a newe boiler at this stage if you don't want to. Bypassing the thermostat & using a power controler is the way to go and is not an expensive option. All I'd add is to be careful with earthing continuity and make sure that your mains circuit to the shed has an earth leakage trip.

 

[micklupulo]

I have an Electrim bin which years ago used to frustrate me as it was impossible to maintain a rolling boil because the thermostat was over-sensitive and also used to worry me because the pins of the plug got hot. I have recently refurbed it with a new tap and acquired an old kettle lead to bypass the stat and for the first time achieved an hour's rolling boil though of course the stat comes into its own for mashing. I only ever now plug it straight into the mains with no extension lead which I recently realised I had been overloading. I only mention that to echo what has already been mentioned about the nature of the power supply to the shed

 

[Nottsbeer]

I have an Electrim bin which years ago used to frustrate me as it was impossible to maintain a rolling boil because the thermostat was over-sensitive and also used to worry me because the pins of the plug got hot. I have recently refurbed it with a new tap and acquired an old kettle lead to bypass the stat and for the first time achieved an hour's rolling boil though of course the stat comes into its own for mashing. I only ever now plug it straight into the mains with no extension lead which I recently realised I had been overloading. I only mention that to echo what has already been mentioned about the nature of the power supply to the shed

Thanks for your replies Bill and Mick - the supply to my shed is on a RCD protected ring from the fuse board so I'm happy with the electrics. Having read another thread recently on here about overloading sockets (I think the thread about using Tesco kettles to install two heating elements in a boiler) with various set-ups, I'm also aware of potential issues. I have a while before i'll be making any changes due to quite a bit of DIY at the moment but I'm keen to make my own regulator - though it's good to hear that your set-up Mick works well. Cheers.

 

[mrhardware]

This looks good
BIAB (Brew In A Bag) 40L Electric Kettle Kit - Modified Grainfather Sparge Water Heater

this comes with the bag, a ball valve conversion and bazooka filter.

 

[Galena]

This looks good
BIAB (Brew In A Bag) 40L Electric Kettle Kit - Modified Grainfather Sparge Water Heater

this comes with the bag, a ball valve conversion and bazooka filter.

What puts me off this, is concern at how accurately you can dial in the temperature, I would also want a false bottom for it as I like to chuck the hops in loose. Otherwise I agree a good 40 litre option for BIAB

 

[Wynne]

What puts me off this, is concern at how accurately you can dial in the temperature, I would also want a false bottom for it as I like to chuck the hops in loose. Otherwise I agree a good 40 litre option for BIAB

Does the Fullhorn come with a false bottom or did you add it? I use a helix in my Cygnet which seems to work for both whole and pellet hops. I tried using a mesh grain basket but hot break material and hop fragments clog the fine mesh.

 

[Galena]

Does the Fullhorn come with a false bottom or did you add it? I use a helix in my Cygnet which seems to work for both whole and pellet hops. I tried using a mesh grain basket but hot break material and hop fragments clog the fine mesh.

It came with it. I find it stops most of the hop pellets coming through. There are still a fair bit that it does miss though as it's not a tight fit, I have found a combination of a short whirlpool action ( a bit difficult with the immersion chiller in but it works in a fashion) and I also filter with an Aldi veg bag as I transfer to the FV, sometimes this blocks in which case I swap for another veg bag and this combination stops any hop material from reaching the FV