BIAB KIT Advice request

[chuff76]

Hi all.

I did a fair few brews, then life got busy and I stopped. It's been 6 years.

I've still got all my stuff, and I wanted to pick it up again and need some advice on BIAB equipment.

I have a buffalo 40l electric kettle, used it a few times for BIAB. But never managed to get a consistent rolling boil from it so am thinking I should scrap that and get a kettle and burner.

I will just be making 5 gallon brews, so all I need to get started again is a kettle and burner, and whatever gubbins I need for that (gas... tubes etc)

Any advice on a gas powered BIAB setup highly appreciated

 

[simonind]

Not advice on gas but I use a 40L buffalo for BIAB, have you bypassed the thermal cut out and thermostat so it's always on when plugged in? It should produce a rolling boil with no issues then. I also use an outboard temperature controller to hold it at 66C for mashing, and plug it straight into the wall for the boil.

 

[Tanglefoot]

I BIAB no sparge on a camping stove with double burner.
Batch size is usually 18L with total water of 24L, reaching mash temp in approx 40mins.
I still use handheld digital thermometer, after mash I turn off gas, wrap pan in insulated yoga roll and blanket.
Apart from grain bags and paddle I don't need any other kit which is part of the appeal.
I've now got a bigger 70L pan and will be upgrading to this larger 7.5kw single burner from Malt miller which would be a good bet if you're looking to buy new.
https://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/product/7-5kw-gas-burner-and-stand/

 

[chuff76]

Thank you gentlemen.

@simonind I did get some bits of wire off ebay and might have even tried opening it with a screwdriver but that's as far as I got then gave up. Electricity is scary, especially combined with water. This was partly why I quit brewing tbh. My buffalo is virtually brand new but has lain dormant for all these years now.

@Tanglefoot Good tips and almost exactly the same stuff I've been looking at - In my shopping cart for Malt Miller as follows:
70L (14 US Gal) Stainless Steel Brew Kettle
7.5kw Gas Burner and Stand (same that you linked above)
Stainless Steel 21mm Hole Plug (To replace the thermometer / avoid snagging my bag)
+ a ton of incidentals, malt & hops. Almost £400 (don't tell the wife)
Regarding the burner - Is that everything we need? Just add propane ?

 

[Davvy]

Hello,
On this Forum and others there is quite a bit of details of how this type of boiler can be liable for not reaching a full boil....with a fair amount of advice to sort.....Some of it is far too involved for someone who does not deal with electrics routinely, but some of it is fairly simple.....If you want to have a go before parting with any extra money !!

Underneath the bottom cover reveals all the electrics to the element and other parts that regulate the electricity.....the easiest way to allow for the element to heat more is move the thermocouple away from the base of the pot, and then the element will simply carry on heating without cutting out so early....
The thermocouple is the silver pencil like item which is held in with a couple of screws to the base. you can move it further away from the base so it does not get so hot....

I did this with a Burco Cygnet boiler and it reaches a boil no problem. The only issue with tea urn's in my opinion is the boil is really too fierce.

Hope this gives you some ideas before going down another route.

 

[chuff76]

...the easiest way to allow for the element to heat more is move the thermocouple away from the base of the pot, and then the element will simply carry on heating without cutting out so early....
The thermocouple is the silver pencil like item which is held in with a couple of screws to the base. you can move it further away from the base so it does not get so hot....

Thanks
That actually sounds quite do-able. I might have another look at it, when I bought it I thought I was all set but had a couple of horrible brew days and rage quit.

 

[UKSkydiver]

I had a 40L Buffalo (CC193) and even though I changed what could be changed and byassed what could be bypassed, it still wasn't able to generate a boil, rolling or other wise.

So I got rid and now I have a Brewzilla. Would have been great though.

 

[Davvy]

Here is some further reading on the subject....

https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/buffalo-boiler-not-heating.73950/
and

https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/fixing-a-buffalo-boiler-cut-out.69017/
I should probably stress that if you are in any way doubtful of your abilities with electrics - stay well clear of it....let someone who has know-how work with it, without puting you in serious danger....it is 240v you are dealing with.

Saying that....it is only the case of moving the thermocouple and putting the cover back on and seeing how your boil improves. If it does nothing - it will prove to yourself that you can move on to your next setup, and you have closed the door on this one.

All the best,
David.

 

[The Baron]

The advise is good just to add to that if you do the mod please do a run with just water to see it boils ok rather than wait until you have a brew on to find out as if it does not work FRUSTRATION will be the word of the day

 

[Davvy]

Agree completely with The Baron ; water costs nothing ......(in Scotland !!).

 

[Tanglefoot]

Thank you gentlemen.



@Tanglefoot Good tips and almost exactly the same stuff I've been looking at - In my shopping cart for Malt Miller as follows:
70L (14 US Gal) Stainless Steel Brew Kettle
7.5kw Gas Burner and Stand (same that you linked above)
Stainless Steel 21mm Hole Plug (To replace the thermometer / avoid snagging my bag)
+ a ton of incidentals, malt & hops. Almost £400 (don't tell the wife)
Regarding the burner - Is that everything we need? Just add propane ?

I use butane but that burner will use either.

The only other piece of kit I use is a hop spider.
Also you'll want some sort of insulation for the pot for during the mash, such as a foil backed camping/yoga mat.
I put a heavy blanket on lid as well. It usually only drops a couple of degrees between turning off gas and end of mash.

Bear in mind if you're doing large batches in a 70L pan it will be heavy, ideally you'd use a strong bag with loops and a hoist.
Using my 38L pan I usually have just under 5kg of grain and that is just about manageable by hand.
I have'nt used my 70L pan yet but am planning a new work top at convenient height so I don't need to move it around,
with pulley above from rafter ( in shed ).

Of course great thing about a big pan is you have the option to do big or small volumes ( and no sparge )
so your plan to start out with 5 gallon brews is sound whilst you get everything dialled in.

Happy brewing !

 

[BlueBankBrewery]

In case it helps, I use a Buffalo 40l as a BIAB boiler. Originally, I couldn’t reach a rolling boil either. I did the mods moving the thermostat and bypassing the thermal cut out but in the end I found that only one (the smaller of the two) element was actually working. I came to this conclusion by performing a resistance check between the terminals of the element. After a bit of calculation with the resistance figure, I deduced that only the 800W element was intact. I did my research and was all ready to pull the trigger on an all in one. I was looking at the Klarstein models with the re circ pump as looked to fit the bill for me. I just couldn’t justify the money and stalled. As luck would have it, a fellow home brewer was getting rid of a bunch of home brew kit for free and one of the plastic electrim bins was part of the haul. I removed the electric element from the electrim bin and retrofitted it to the Buffalo. All I needed was a 40mm carbide hole saw and a bit of wd40 to help with the cutting. To summarise, if you can get hold of a kettle element and fancy retrofitting it, this will 100% solve your problem for a small investment. But, only if you want to stick with electric brewing. Also, if your in the midlands and do decide to scrap your 40l buffalo. I’ll happily take it off your hands .