Okay, thanks for the reply and photos.I use a helix or some patience and a dip tube
Do you also use a late chiller, since bazooka’s look like they will let a lot of funk through?I use a bazooka filter and get very little transfer. Most of the debris falls to the side of the filter.
that's a good idea, I had a company make some replacement screens with a hole for the braumeister I bet you they could do the cones as well. will post a link when I find it again.Id thought about a flattish mesh cone....with a long tube that could slide over the centre shaft of my Braumeister....imagine something similar to an upside down umbrella. Wouldn't need to be a tight fit to the BM diameter....5mm leeway would ensure that the vast majority of hop matter would get caught and allow for easy removal at the end of the boil (my wort chiller usually sits in a bucket of StarSan solution whilst waiting for its turn to be used in the brewing process so doesn't need to go in 15 minutes before boil end to sanitise.
This allows hops totally free reign to roll around where they want and they effectively get dragged out at the end like fish in a net.
The restricted flow through the plate chiller is not a problem, providing there is some flow. My concern is getter the plate chiller blocked with debris. But I appreciate your thoughts and suggestions.Bazooka won't work with a plate chiller Old_P, you won't be able to get the flow you need to get the right flow through the chiller for the right temperature out the other end, without the bazooka clogging up almost instantly using pellet hops, you'd be ok probably using whole hops though as they form a filter bed over the bazooka.
You need either something with a much larger surface area, or to use something like a spider. I went with the spider as they're cheaper. I DO use a plate chiller. These look amazing, expensive though: Brew Builder
There's these too, but to my mind that's a lot of money for a lauter helix.....
Sit chiller coil in bucket of sanitiser instead of putting it in brew for 15 mins, I like that as well !
You won't get ANY flow through it after a few seconds if you use pellet hops, as the bazooka will just clog completely. Been there, done that, had to keep scraping it off until I gave up and transferred using an auto-siphon.... Switched to using whole hops after. Use a larger mesh size on the bazooka to try to avoid clogging, and that hop matter will just go into your plate chiller instead. Normal bazooka filters just don't have a good enough surface area to be useful with pellet hops in my experience. They're fantastic with whole hops though for sure. Sorry if I wasn't clear enough and gave you the impression that I meant flow would be reduced, when I say clogged up, I mean utterly, you might get a drip out of the tap (if you didn't have a hose on it).The restricted flow through the plate chiller is not a problem, providing there is some flow. My concern is getter the plate chiller blocked with debris. But I appreciate your thoughts and suggestions.
Okay, got it. Then I’ll stick with my braided hose for now.Sorry if I wasn't clear enough and gave you the impression that I meant flow would be reduced, when I say clogged up, I mean utterly, you might get a drip out of the tap (if you didn't have a hose on it).
One of the things I've not seen mentioned here is that a hop spider filter flow and permeability to suspended particles will vary with temperature, partly due to change in fluid viscosity and mesh pore size with temperature.
I've been recirculating during cooling with the recirculation hose through the hop spider, as it cools I hit a temperature where the fluid level will rapidly rise in the spider (as caught out the first time) and I have to move the recirculation tube back into the wort, which I think is due to finer cold break proteins being filtered out that weren't caught in the lower filter screen which is a win in my view.
Anna
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