Belgian Quad recipe help

[Lynx Brewery]

I normally plan my brewing schedule in advance and buy in bulk everything I need for the next 12 or so brews.

I’ve made a late decision though this time to add one to the schedule and brew a Quad to commemorate my 50th brew. I’m going to base it on the James Morton recipe from his “Brew“ book. It calls for 3kg of Belgian Pilsner malt and 3kg of Belgian pale malt. I’ve got a good stock of Dingemans Pilsen malt and plenty of Crisp Maris Otter.

I don’t have any Belgian pale though

and it’s not stocked by any of my local shops. I’m thinking of either using 6kg of my Pilsen malt or subbing the Belgian pale with 3kg of my Crisp MO.

Any suggestions?

 

[Hazelwood Brewery]

I’d say you’re fine with your Pilsner malt and MO. The yeast is the most important thing in a Belgian ale. Some might also argue the candi sugar.

 

[Sadfield]

Either will be fine. Tynt Meadow is a fine Trappist beer and that is brewed with English malt, hops and yeast strain.

 

[The Cat]

Either will be fine. Tynt Meadow is a fine Trappist beer and that is brewed with English malt, hops and yeast strain.

Oh my word I like that stuff. Might get some for Christmas.

 

[Oneflewover]

I agree that subbing the MO for the Belgian pale would be fine. I'm surprised that that isn't a bit more complexity to the grain bill though

 

[samale]

Add some special B

 

[Oneflewover]

Add some special B

And a soupcon of carafa 2

 

[BlackRegent]

I agree that subbing the MO for the Belgian pale would be fine. I'm surprised that that isn't a bit more complexity to the grain bill though

Online recipes for Belgian Quads seem to split into two camps - recipes where the malts are pale malts and nothing else and recipes where the malt bill is as long as your arm, trying to achieve complexity through various specialty malts. Stan Hieronymus in Brew like a Monk comments that traditional trappist dark strong ales use only pale malts and achieve their complexity through sugar additions, the yeast and ageing.

I spent a bit of time researching this when I brewed a dark strong last year and in the end I opted for a simple malt bill (only pilsner and pale). The resultant beer is coming up to a year old and seems to be hitting its straps with the caramel and rum and raison notes that you would expect from the style. I can't comment on what would have happened if I'd gone the complex malt route, but I can say through experience that pale malts can produce a rich and complex beer.

 

[Hazelwood Brewery]

Online recipes for Belgian Quads seem to split into two camps - recipes where the malts are pale malts and nothing else and recipes where the malt bill is as long as your arm, trying to achieve complexity through various specialty malts. Stan Hieronymus in Brew like a Monk comments that traditional trappist dark strong ales use only pale malts and achieve their complexity through sugar additions, the yeast and ageing.

I spent a bit of time researching this when I brewed a dark strong last year and in the end I opted for a simple malt bill (only pilsner and pale). The resultant beer is coming up to a year old and seems to be hitting its straps with the caramel and rum and raison notes that you would expect from the style. I can't comment on what would have happened if I'd gone the complex malt route, but I can say through experience that pale malts can produce a rich and complex beer.

I’m in this camp. A simple recipe is best in my view.

 

[Oneflewover]

I’m in this camp. A simple recipe is best in my view.

Oh I agree on the whole. However, if your Candi sugar / syrup isn't top notch it ain't going to be much of a quad.

 

[Lynx Brewery]

Thanks everyone for the really helpful advice.

I’ll use the Pilsner malt and MO. My Candi Sugar is from Dark Rock. It’s unbranded but I think it will be fine.

For my yeast, I’m planning to use Mangrove Jacks M31. I’ve only got 3 packets though. I’ve never made a starter before and just pitch directly into the wort. Is a starter the best way to achieve a successful fermentation? I’m aiming for 20 litres and an OG of about 1.090, as per the recipe.

 

[Oneflewover]

I always take a hit on efficiency in bigger beers, and don't typically get the 70% this recipe is based on. That might not be true of your process but either way 3 packs should be more than ok for 20l @1.090 in my guesstimation.

In fact I just plugged the numbers into the pitch rate calculator on this site and 3 packs is about spot on apparently

 

[Hazelwood Brewery]

You’d be fine with 2 packs. I used M41 and just one pack in mine - OG 1062, 20 litres. I also pitched the yeast dry from the packet.

Under pitching will encourage more yeast esters and give you a beer that tastes more Belgian. I think 3 packs might result in a beer that still tastes Belgian but is quite subtle.

 

[Sadfield]

I'd pitch three, if that's what the calculator recommends. Under pitching may promote esters, but it also runs the risk of more higher alcohols, sulphur and diacetyl, or having a stalled fermentation. There's better ways to promote ester formation, higher fermentation temperature being the easiest to achieve.

 

[Hazelwood Brewery]

I'd pitch three, if that's what the calculator recommends. Under pitching may promote esters, but it also runs the risk of more higher alcohols, sulphur and diacetyl, or having a stalled fermentation. There's better ways to promote ester formation, higher fermentation temperature being the easiest to achieve.

I also fermented high(ish at 26)

I still think two packs is plenty. Lower pitch rates are always recommended for beers that rely on yeast character. High pitch rates also increase the risks of fusels etc.

 

[Sadfield]

I also fermented high(ish at 26)

I still think two packs is plenty. Lower pitch rates are always recommended for beers that rely on yeast character.

By whom? not the manufacturers.

High pitch rates also increase the risks of fusels etc.

That's why I recommend pitching the correct amount.

 

[Horners]

Deleted

 

[Hazelwood Brewery]

By whom?

By renowned brewers, people like John Palmer.

…not the manufacturers.

No but I believe the manufacturer does recommend two packs.

 

[Hazelwood Brewery]

Thanks everyone for the really helpful advice.

I’ll use the Pilsner malt and MO. My Candi Sugar is from Dark Rock. It’s unbranded but I think it will be fine.

For my yeast, I’m planning to use Mangrove Jacks M31. I’ve only got 3 packets though. I’ve never made a starter before and just pitch directly into the wort. Is a starter the best way to achieve a successful fermentation? I’m aiming for 20 litres and an OG of about 1.090, as per the recipe.
View attachment 58066

As you see people have their own views about these things but you need to make some decisions so…

I think we’d all agree one pack is not enough, three packs isn’t so much it will do any harm. Your choice is two packs which might give you a little more character or three packs if you’re feeling a little spooked.

I don’t think a starter is needed but you will get better viability by rehydrating the yeast before you pitch it.

 

[samale]

As regards temperature, I Personally start low then gradually ramp up. The only yeast I have ever hit 26 degrees has been Saison yeast.
Typically I would start at 20 and gradually ramp up to 24. This was advice given to me when I started brewing Belgian style beers from more experienced members on the forum. As H said it can be down to personally choice and what works best for you.