Beer float issue

[Elliott 22]

After 2 weeks in my new king keg with top tap and sparkler tap, my new stout was ready.

However ....only gas and clear liquid co2
Having had to open the keg and let out all the pressure put my hand in and find out what had gone wrong.

After testing and checking after a 5 co2 capsules wasted checking diffent things, found the back of the attached point next to tube was cracked ‍

So reattached tube straight on back of tap and all sorted. My question is how many capsules should I add or do I need to reprime. Stout is coming out with a lovely head but as stout no carbonation in pint.

Any help greatly appreciated

 

[terrym]

Depend how quickly you want to drink your beer.
At risk of repeating your previous experience of adding several batches of priming sugar
https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/...beer-won’t-carbonate.79245/page-2#post-787419
that's what I would do.
If you want to drink your beer quickly you can gas up using bulbs. One at a time until you are happy with the pressure, noting that as you add a bulb of CO2 it will slowly get absorbed into the beer over a few hours until an equilibrium is reached. So you might have good top pressure immediately after adding the bulb but this may fall over time. You might need a few bulbs to do this , but don't exceed the SWP of the PB.
Your choice.

 

[Elliott 22]

Thanks terrym
Definitely don’t want to do all that again

Just bad luck this time, so you personally would reprime, I’m not in a hurry to drink it and batch primed with treacle which I have to say was a great idea and has added a lovely flavour.

Bottled 14 for keeping and aging and kegged the rest. Also am I right that for a beer to absorb carbonation it needs to be refrigerated?

I wasn’t going to refrigerate the stout due to serving temp being too low for a stout.

 

[Dull Boy]

Yes, if a beer is cold it will absorb CO2 back into the beer, which is why it is important to prime & bottle ferment at the primary (first) fermentation temp. If you prime cold bottled beer at the rate the style demands you run the risk of bottle bombs or gushers. Hope that makes sense.

 

[Bigcol49]

Yes, if a beer is cold it will absorb CO2 back into the beer, which is why it is important to prime & bottle ferment at the primary (first) fermentation temp. If you prime cold bottled beer at the rate the style demands you run the risk of bottle bombs or gushers. Hope that makes sense.

Hi!
Yes - it makes perfect sense.
Before cold crashing, record the temperature of the brew, and that's the temperature that you enter into the Priming Calculator.

 

[terrym]

I’m not in a hurry to drink it and batch primed with treacle which I have to say was a great idea and has added a lovely flavour.

Also am I right that for a beer to absorb carbonation it needs to be refrigerated?

1. If you are happy with the taste of the stout having added the treacle for priming, personally I would not add any more. You can overdo treacle imo. So I would just use ordinary sugar. Your choice.

2. Yes in part. However other things can come into play all surrounding the equilibrium between dissolved CO2 in the beer and CO2 in the gas space, so the 'bigger picture' is
i) By heating or cooling the enclosed space i.e. your PB - if you cool down, CO2 will slowly be absorbed into the liquid from the gas space to create a new equilibrium but the top pressure will fall; heat it up and gas will come out of solution and the top pressure will rise until things balance out again
ii) By adding extra CO2 into the gas space (say from a bulb), which temporarily creates an imbalance, and so things then slowly move towards towards a new equilibrium by CO2 moving into solution, which in turn results in a decrease from the initial pressure (like I said earlier)
iii) By removing liquid e.g. dispensing a pint, which means the equilibrium is disturbed and CO2 slowly comes out of solution to re-establish the equilibrium, but since the gas space has increased the pressure falls.
Hope this is understandable