Barreling / bottling

[Andy44]

Hi,
I have read on here about transferring the beer from the fermenting bucket once it has reached its final gravity to another bucket before barreling or bottling, what does this do to the beer and how long should it be kept in the 2nd bucket.

 

[The Baron]

Hi Andy its called a secondary FV. There are a few reasons that it is used

1. it was used to take the beer off the yeast to stop any odd tastes from the yeast if left on it too long but that does not seem to be the case nowadays as most brewers leave it in the FV for 14 days for to ferment and then the yeast to clean up any odd flavours that it has produced.

2. Some brewers transfer the beer to a 2nd FV to add the sugar when ready for bottling but again this can cause the extra risk of contamination from transferring to another FV and possible oxygenation of the beer but this again is down to each brewer and what process they do.
Me personally I would leave the beer in the 1st for 14 days or a little longer depending on the style as this gives the yeast time to fully ferment out and clean up any odd flavours produced then bottle straight from there unless you want to do step 2 for the adding of sugar. I personally add my sugar to each bottle but that is just my choice.

You will no doubt get answers on here to prime in a secondary FV but just read all the answers then do what suits your process best as there is no 1 answer fits all

 

[Andy44]

Hi Andy its called a secondary FV. There are a few reasons that it is used

1. it was used to take the beer off the yeast to stop any odd tastes from the yeast if left on it too long but that does not seem to be the case nowadays as most brewers leave it in the FV for 14 days for to ferment and then the yeast to clean up any odd flavours that it has produced.

2. Some brewers transfer the beer to a 2nd FV to add the sugar when ready for bottling but again this can cause the extra risk of contamination from transferring to another FV and possible oxygenation of the beer but this again is down to each brewer and what process they do.
Me personally I would leave the beer in the 1st for 14 days or a little longer depending on the style as this gives the yeast time to fully ferment out and clean up any odd flavours produced then bottle straight from there unless you want to do step 2 for the adding of sugar. I personally add my sugar to each bottle but that is just my choice.

You will no doubt get answers on here to prime in a secondary FV but just read all the answers then do what suits your process best as there is no 1 answer fits all

Hi The Baron, thanks great info, would you say once the bubbling has stopped to leave it in the FV for a few days. TIA

 

[damienair]

I have 2 fermentation buckets with taps in both. I make up a brew and leave it up in an airing cupboard at 20-22 degrees C. I leave the beer for 2 weeks in the first fermentation bucket and only disturb it to add hops for the last 3-4 days. Siphoning is a bit of a pain, so I bring the first FV down stairs to the kitchen the day before bottling and leave it to rest on top of a work surface. I mix 180g of brewing sugar with 400 ml of water in a small saucepan and bring this to a boil whilst stirring. I then let it cool whilst I sanitise the second bucket, bottling wand, bottles and a lenght of tubing, caps etc. I attach the lenght of tubing to the tap on the first FV and place it into the second bucket which is on the floor underneath. I pour the sugar solution into the second bucket and then I simply open the tap on the first bucket and transfer the beer across being careful at the end whilst tipping over the bucket to turn off the tap just before any of the sediment moves across. I then give the beer in the bottling bucket a very gentle stir just to make sure that the priming sugar is well mixed into the beer and I lift this bucket up onto a work surface, attach the bottling wand and bottle away. With this method you can fill any size bottle. I find it handy to do and you don't have to worry about disturbing the sediment at the bottom of the primary bucket when bottling and pre-priming the beer.

 

[Andy44]

I have 2 fermentation buckets with taps in both. I make up a brew and leave it up in an airing cupboard at 20-22 degrees C. I leave the beer for 2 weeks in the first fermentation bucket and only disturb it to add hops for the last 3-4 days. Siphoning is a bit of a pain, so I bring the first FV down stairs to the kitchen the day before bottling and leave it to rest on top of a work surface. I mix 180g of brewing sugar with 400 ml of water in a small saucepan and bring this to a boil whilst stirring. I then let it cool whilst I sanitise the second bucket, bottling wand, bottles and a lenght of tubing, caps etc. I attach the lenght of tubing to the tap on the first FV and place it into the second bucket which is on the floor underneath. I pour the sugar solution into the second bucket and then I simply open the tap on the first bucket and transfer the beer across being careful at the end whilst tipping over the bucket to turn off the tap just before any of the sediment moves across. I then give the beer in the bottling bucket a very gentle stir just to make sure that the priming sugar is well mixed into the beer and I lift this bucket up onto a work surface, attach the bottling wand and bottle away. With this method you can fill any size bottle. I find it handy to do and you don't have to worry about disturbing the sediment at the bottom of the primary bucket when bottling and pre-priming the beer.

Hi Damienair, thanks that is great advise, its hard not to disturb the sediment when bottling on your own

 

[The Baron]

Hi Andy the proper answer is after fermentation has finished say 10 daysish you need to check that you have a steady FG reading on a hydrometer for at least 2 days which means it has definitely finished then put it gently(try not to stir the yeast up) in a cold place if possible for the yeast and any suspension to drop to the bottom of the FV for a few more days then bottle.

Now the most common way done once you have attained some experience is that after 7-10 days you will know if it has finished but do not always trust the airlock as bubbling can sometimes not happen even though it is still fermenting. Once you are sure it has finished put it in the coldest place you have - this is called cold crashing and some brewers have a fridge they use to control ferment temp and aiding cold crashing with a temperature controller. When you have cold crashed say a couple of days this will drop the majority of yeast and suspended matter to the bottom so as to bottle a clearer beer.
When you have cold crashed then gently move the FV to where you are going to bottle and make sure it is at a say worktop height to aid syphoning. Place the FV with a tea towel at the back on the worktop so as the FV is tipping slightly forward to help getting the most beer out without disturbing the yeast.
So to sum it up I would do 10 days ferment then 3 days cold crash then move to your bottling place and leave overnight if possible to settle back down after moving it.
Do not forget that the hydrometer readings should be done until you have enough experience to judge that fermentation has finished or if its a big beer as they may take longer to ferment out
A bottling stick and a clip to hold the syphon tube will make it a simpler process for 1 person so as there is minimal disturbing of the sediment and thats why you cold crash and put in your bottling position the day before both are on a couple of quid
Ps the first 10 days are 7 to ferment +3 for the yeast to clean up any off flavours

 

[Andy44]

Hi Andy the proper answer is after fermentation has finished say 10 daysish you need to check that you have a steady FG reading on a hydrometer for at least 2 days which means it has definitely finished then put it gently(try not to stir the yeast up) in a cold place if possible for the yeast and any suspension to drop to the bottom of the FV for a few more days then bottle.

Now the most common way done once you have attained some experience is that after 7-10 days you will know if it has finished but do not always trust the airlock as bubbling can sometimes not happen even though it is still fermenting. Once you are sure it has finished put it in the coldest place you have - this is called cold crashing and some brewers have a fridge they use to control ferment temp and aiding cold crashing with a temperature controller. When you have cold crashed say a couple of days this will drop the majority of yeast and suspended matter to the bottom so as to bottle a clearer beer.
When you have cold crashed then gently move the FV to where you are going to bottle and make sure it is at a say worktop height to aid syphoning. Place the FV with a tea towel at the back on the worktop so as the FV is tipping slightly forward to help getting the most beer out without disturbing the yeast.
So to sum it up I would do 10 days ferment then 3 days cold crash then move to your bottling place and leave overnight if possible to settle back down after moving it.
Do not forget that the hydrometer readings should be done until you have enough experience to judge that fermentation has finished or if its a big beer as they may take longer to ferment out
A bottling stick and a clip to hold the syphon tube will make it a simpler process for 1 person so as there is minimal disturbing of the sediment and thats why you cold crash and put in your bottling position the day before both are on a couple of quid
Ps the first 10 days are 7 to ferment +3 for the yeast to clean up any off flavours

Thank you

 

[moto748]

On secondary FVs, I do what, I reckon, every one used to do forty years ago, but fewer do these days, and start in a plastic bucket, then transfer to demi-johns under fermentation locks after a few days. And I still think this method has a lot to commend it. You are leaving behind the floating krausen from the bucket, and the excess sediment from the bottom of the bucket. Typically I transfer 2 or 3 teaspoonful of the sediment from the bottom of the bucket into each demijohn after I've siphoned the beer into them. The fermentation locks give a good guide to the end of fermentation, and if your demijohns are clear glass, as most seem to be these days, you can see the beer start to clarify and a new layer of sediment form in the bottom.

 

[damienair]

Hi Damienair, thanks that is great advise, its hard not to disturb the sediment when bottling on your own

No problem. I only started in December myself and so far have done 9 brews. The first few were a learning on the job attempts which worked out well. But with each brew I tweaked my methods. I’m still doing it. But with each attempt I get a bit faster and it becomes a little easier. Definitely putting a second tap on my second Fermentation bucket was a huge upgrade. Trying to siphon on my own with a magic siphon was difficult, I’d have to get my kids or my wife involved. But the tap and tubing is fantastic and so much easier. No risk of disturbing the sediment and you can maximize the amount of beer transferred across. Then the bottling bucket also has a tap for bottling. Good luck. It’s good fun and every time you do it you will learn and improve your own method.

 

[Mattb1969]

I have 2 fermentation buckets with taps in both. I make up a brew and leave it up in an airing cupboard at 20-22 degrees C. I leave the beer for 2 weeks in the first fermentation bucket and only disturb it to add hops for the last 3-4 days. Siphoning is a bit of a pain, so I bring the first FV down stairs to the kitchen the day before bottling and leave it to rest on top of a work surface. I mix 180g of brewing sugar with 400 ml of water in a small saucepan and bring this to a boil whilst stirring. I then let it cool whilst I sanitise the second bucket, bottling wand, bottles and a lenght of tubing, caps etc. I attach the lenght of tubing to the tap on the first FV and place it into the second bucket which is on the floor underneath. I pour the sugar solution into the second bucket and then I simply open the tap on the first bucket and transfer the beer across being careful at the end whilst tipping over the bucket to turn off the tap just before any of the sediment moves across. I then give the beer in the bottling bucket a very gentle stir just to make sure that the priming sugar is well mixed into the beer and I lift this bucket up onto a work surface, attach the bottling wand and bottle away. With this method you can fill any size bottle. I find it handy to do and you don't have to worry about disturbing the sediment at the bottom of the primary bucket when bottling and pre-priming the beer.

This is what I plan to do for my first bottling this weekend. A quick question if you don’t mind. The instructions talk about ½ tsp per bottle or 135g for a barrel. I have 22L of liquid in my FV, so I add 22tsp sugar or 135g or somewhere in between?

 

[damienair]

This is what I plan to do for my first bottling this weekend. A quick question if you don’t mind. The instructions talk about ½ tsp per bottle or 135g for a barrel. I have 22L of liquid in my FV, so I add 22tsp sugar or 135g or somewhere in between?

So far I have done a blonde ale, simply lager, 2 wheat beers, 2 IPA’s, a cider and a white wine. For the beers I have used 180g of brewing sugar batch primed for 23 liters and the carbonation has been spot on. I’ve never used table sugar so whatever the conversion is for table sugar should be perfect.

 

[Andy44]

This is what I plan to do for my first bottling this weekend. A quick question if you don’t mind. The instructions talk about ½ tsp per bottle or 135g for a barrel. I have 22L of liquid in my FV, so I add 22tsp sugar or 135g or somewhere in between?

I have put just over a measured teaspoon in per litre bottle after some advice on here

 

[Andy44]

So far I have done a blonde ale, simply lager, 2 wheat beers, 2 IPA’s, a cider and a white wine. For the beers I have used 180g of brewing sugar batch primed for 23 liters and the carbonation has been spot on. I’ve never used table sugar so whatever the conversion is for table sugar should be perfect.

I have found that after the carbonation starts to ease off in the barrel I inject a Co2 canister in and it doesn't seem to do any thing? Any advice is much appreciated

 

[Fred mercuree]

Hi Andy its called a secondary FV. There are a few reasons that it is used

1. it was used to take the beer off the yeast to stop any odd tastes from the yeast if left on it too long but that does not seem to be the case nowadays as most brewers leave it in the FV for 14 days for to ferment and then the yeast to clean up any odd flavours that it has produced.

2. Some brewers transfer the beer to a 2nd FV to add the sugar when ready for bottling but again this can cause the extra risk of contamination from transferring to another FV and possible oxygenation of the beer but this again is down to each brewer and what process they do.
Me personally I would leave the beer in the 1st for 14 days or a little longer depending on the style as this gives the yeast time to fully ferment out and clean up any odd flavours produced then bottle straight from there unless you want to do step 2 for the adding of sugar. I personally add my sugar to each bottle but that is just my choice.

You will no doubt get answers on here to prime in a secondary FV but just read all the answers then do what suits your process best as there is no 1 answer fits all

Good information for me because I'm a newbie and bought a basic brewing kit which only had one bucket, was contemplating buying another but could not see the point. Any tips on getting the beer into the bottles after the 14 days are up?

 

[JeffDragon7]

Good information for me because I'm a newbie and bought a basic brewing kit which only had one bucket, was contemplating buying another but could not see the point. Any tips on getting the beer into the bottles after the 14 days are up?

I syphon using one of those tubes with a bit on the bottom r=that helps stop the sediments getting into the bottles, I also use a bottling wand they are fantastic

 

[Poddyc]

https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/bottle-wand-very-slow.93165/post-1016949

 

[Andy44]

Good information for me because I'm a newbie and bought a basic brewing kit which only had one bucket, was contemplating buying another but could not see the point. Any tips on getting the beer into the bottles after the 14 days are up?

Has it got a tap on the bucket if so get a bottling wand makes life a lot easier. Good luck

 

[Fred mercuree]

Has it got a tap on the bucket if so get a bottling wand makes life a lot easier. Good luck

No tap on it but I think I can manage. Learn by mistake I suppose.

 

[Andy44]

I done the same, then I bought a tap from wilko so much easier

 

[Fred mercuree]

Hi Andy the proper answer is after fermentation has finished say 10 daysish you need to check that you have a steady FG reading on a hydrometer for at least 2 days which means it has definitely finished then put it gently(try not to stir the yeast up) in a cold place if possible for the yeast and any suspension to drop to the bottom of the FV for a few more days then bottle.

Now the most common way done once you have attained some experience is that after 7-10 days you will know if it has finished but do not always trust the airlock as bubbling can sometimes not happen even though it is still fermenting. Once you are sure it has finished put it in the coldest place you have - this is called cold crashing and some brewers have a fridge they use to control ferment temp and aiding cold crashing with a temperature controller. When you have cold crashed say a couple of days this will drop the majority of yeast and suspended matter to the bottom so as to bottle a clearer beer.
When you have cold crashed then gently move the FV to where you are going to bottle and make sure it is at a say worktop height to aid syphoning. Place the FV with a tea towel at the back on the worktop so as the FV is tipping slightly forward to help getting the most beer out without disturbing the yeast.
So to sum it up I would do 10 days ferment then 3 days cold crash then move to your bottling place and leave overnight if possible to settle back down after moving it.
Do not forget that the hydrometer readings should be done until you have enough experience to judge that fermentation has finished or if its a big beer as they may take longer to ferment out
A bottling stick and a clip to hold the syphon tube will make it a simpler process for 1 person so as there is minimal disturbing of the sediment and thats why you cold crash and put in your bottling position the day before both are on a couple of quid
Ps the first 10 days are 7 to ferment +3 for the yeast to clean up any off flavours

Excellent info Baron for Newbies clear concise and simple and not confusing needs to to the point. You nailed it brother.