Angram beer pull advice

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Witespune

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Hey guys!

So I just bought an Angram hand pull for my brews. What is the easiest way (and hopefully the most cost effective) to get it up and running?
Many thanks!!
 
Is it brand new?

Since I live in the US, I'm by no means an expert! However, I did have a "retired" pub hand pull shipped over to me. We don't typically have them here so I had no idea where to start. My understanding was that it had been sitting in a cellar unused for some time. I figured out how to take it all apart and when I got to the gaskets/seals, they were nasty and smelly. I tried cleaning and boiling and nothing worked. I found a place in the UK that would ship me a replacement seal kit. I swapped everything out, hooked it up to a polypin, and I was serving draught bitters at home!

I got a lot of help from the folks here on the forum back in the day but a polypin seemed to be the easiest way to go. I attached it to my kegerator and put the poly inside. It worked great for me. I've heard of folks using cornies but I never tried that. Best of luck with it!
 
I have a Pint365 which I use with cornies. I’ve only had it since April so I’m not an expert, but my set up is as follows:

I have a demand valve to stop the beer being pushed through when the pump is off.

I have a Kegland online regulator with the smallest gauge which I have set at 2PSI to keep the beer fresh and maintain a real ale style level of carbonation.

It’s a fairly basic set up, I believe @peebee is your man if you want more a more authentic/scientific set up.
 
@Witespune Have a look at this thread I started good info in here.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/beer-engine-strip-down-advice.691756/#post-9095533
also another here page 68 some food for thought.

https://aussiehomebrewer.com/thread...f-dedicated-thread.93045/page-68#post-1568572
and here

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/cask-ale-using-fermzilla-and-polypin.692847/#post-9114591
Many ways to skin a cat but the closer you get to cask conditioning and then spiling with it open to the air the more authentic your ale will be. It really is a completely different drink served the cask way.

I can notice the difference between the beer if transferred from keg to mini keg or bag, I do also have a demand valve that allows serving from a keg with some psi behind it but it isn't really the same.

Then the debate starts sparkler or southern pour?
 
I have a Kegland online regulator with the smallest gauge which I have set at 2PSI to keep the beer fresh and maintain a real ale style level of carbonation.
I started out the same way with my Pint365 but it got to be too much of a faff on and I could never get the pressure right. Now I just open the safety valve on the keg while I'm pouring a beer. Its much simpler and more closely replicates what happens with a cask in a pub.
 
...I believe @peebee is your man if you want more a more authentic/scientific set up.
Thank you very much. I'm not sure about "authentic", it's what I do to emulate authenticity because to be authentic will mean drinking naff beer most of the time. And I do remember "science", it was on my school timetables 45-or-so years ago.

And that passes for modesty in my book. I'm actually resoundingly brilliant with pin sharp intelle... (Someone shut him up! His "treatise" with a section on hand pumps is linked in his signature below).
 
@peebee
Insight as well as modesty about your brewing and drinking skills!!

I did find your discussion extremely thorough and wish I'd found it when I got my beer engine, many current regulators ( kegland mkIV for example ) are quite happy with beer gas so if you can get your CO2 cylinder filled with beer gas the regulator works fine. But I don't like the beers served with nitro " it's the same as a beer engine " , it is definitely the best way to drink a naff beer. Any ways that I can " make " some spiles for my small cask plan, they are impossible to get down here and wondered whether a dowel is too hard to be trimmed down, they are fairly soft wood the soft spiles.
 
@Witespune Have a look at this thread I started good info in here.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/beer-engine-strip-down-advice.691756/#post-9095533
also another here page 68 some food for thought.

https://aussiehomebrewer.com/thread...f-dedicated-thread.93045/page-68#post-1568572
and here

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/cask-ale-using-fermzilla-and-polypin.692847/#post-9114591
Many ways to skin a cat but the closer you get to cask conditioning and then spiling with it open to the air the more authentic your ale will be. It really is a completely different drink served the cask way.

I can notice the difference between the beer if transferred from keg to mini keg or bag, I do also have a demand valve that allows serving from a keg with some psi behind it but it isn't really the same.

Then the debate starts sparkler or southern pour?
Thank you!
 
@peebee
Insight as well as modesty about your brewing and drinking skills!!

I did find your discussion extremely thorough and wish I'd found it when I got my beer engine, many current regulators ( kegland mkIV for example ) are quite happy with beer gas so if you can get your CO2 cylinder filled with beer gas the regulator works fine. But I don't like the beers served with nitro " it's the same as a beer engine " , it is definitely the best way to drink a naff beer. Any ways that I can " make " some spiles for my small cask plan, they are impossible to get down here and wondered whether a dowel is too hard to be trimmed down, they are fairly soft wood the soft spiles.
I think the splles are made from basket cane, the type of cane they make furniture from, or weave with.
It's got lots of hollow tubes in it's structure.
 
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