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Tankboi

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Jun 9, 2013
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Location
Huntingdon
5Kg MO
0.5Kg Crystal
.5Kg Medium DME 90min
30g Cascade 90min
30g Golding 60min
30g Golding 20min
40g Cascade 15min
1 Protofloc 15min

2 Packets Wilko Gervins Ale Yeast (Heard this is nottingham? anyone know which one for beer smith)
5 tsp Nutrient
.250Kg Dextrose

(The DME and Dextrose were late decisions to up the ABV a little, need to work on my efficiency)

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Heating the strike water.
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Mashing. Impressed with the cool box lost about 3-4 degrees in 90mins.
Ended with 1055 after top up to 22L this is when I decided to add the DME as I knew I was going to lose loads during boil.

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Nearly at the boil
Probably lost about 3-4L during boil and another 1L from cooling.
Overnight cool got me down to bang on 30c
Topped up to just over 20L
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the SG came out at 1035 nice light beer but I wasn't too happy so threw in what I had left of a pack of dextrose and stirred like hell.
SG 1050 (just under).

Gotta say using the boiler was a lot more fun and so much easier with the control box doing all the work haha.
Other than a minor panic with a postcard related accident all went fairly smoothly I did worry about the plastic of the boiler though but now I have the electrics and such Stainless wont be far off.
 
I heard that wilko ale yeast was Nottingham too, I hope its true.

It looks good. Just out of interest, why the 500g of DME?
 
Duncs said:
I heard that wilko ale yeast was Nottingham too, I hope its true.

It looks good. Just out of interest, why the 500g of DME?

Had it around and thought 'cant hurt' was an excuse to use stuff up and it pumped the gravity up which was what I wanted.
 
Don't want to piss on your chips but losing 3-4c over 90 mins isn't great. I don't lose 4c over a 12hr overnight mash during the summer. Over 90 mins I won't even lose 0.5c.

Might want to beef up the insulation especially in the lid.

K
 
kev said:
Don't want to piss on your chips but losing 3-4c over 90 mins isn't great. I don't lose 4c over a 12hr overnight mash during the summer. Over 90 mins I won't even lose 0.5c.

Might want to beef up the insulation especially in the lid.

K

Will do.. I see people covering there's in foam and towels all I had to hand was a jacket which I covered the top with, I expected to lose a lot more was expecting around 10 which is why i started with 72c grains brought that down to around 69ish just keeping above 60 kept me happy and i know what it can do for next time.
 
So you started mashing at 69c?

You need to sort your mash temps out as that affects the sugar conversion which affects fermentability of the wort which affects your final product.

67c for a malty brew and 64c for a dry brew.

K
 
Thanks for the tips.
I'll aim for it next time and get more insulation. One question I have been meaning to ask was how does mash temps effect end product now I know.

Any tips for insulating the tun a bit more?
 
Squirt expanding foam into the lid and use sleeping bags to wrap it up.

K
 
fuzzy said:
Tankboi said:
One question I have been meaning to ask was how does mash temps effect end product now I know.
Some info on mashing temperatures

http://byo.com/stories/item/1604-what-mash-temperatures-create-a-sweet-or-dry-beer

Also Standing the tun on an insulated mat, like a camping mat and covering in towels, blankets, sleeping bags etc etc will really help.

thanks for the link been very helpful. I looked at this brew as the test brew not used a tun before and the boiler is new so wanted to see what it would do. All these tips and links are proper helpful and I apreciate all of them.
 
No problem. It can be easy to get bogged down with all the technical stuff but after time it all comes together. Getting a brew that I am happy with drinking and sharing is my main aim. I found that with each brew I was able to learn what was happening and change my process or equipment as I needed to.

Main thing is to just enjoy it , every brew day is a school day.
 

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