AG #1 - BIAB Theakstons OP

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LeithR

Landlord.
Joined
Nov 28, 2012
Messages
1,136
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Location
Kemnay - Aberdeenshire
Brew day 14/02/2013
Well, having completed the manufacture of my immersion cooler and having received my grains and hops from Rob I planned to do a 19L brew of Theakstons OP from Graham Wheelers book "Brew your own British Real Ales".

From the off it was a voyage of discovery, I learned a number of lessons during the brew day. Used Safale S04 and made up a good going starter.

The first lesson learned came early, its important to understand the volume of your planned grain bill relative to your boiler. Having measured out 4.51Kg of pale malt I realized that the total volume in my 5G boiler was not going to leave much room for the grain bill and liquor. A quick re-think and re-calculation decided me on a 10L brew.

The grain bill
th_DSC00018_zpsdaab6862.jpg

The hops
DSC00019_zps966ca5ac.jpg


I brought the liquor up to the boil and added the grain bill to the mix
DSC00020_zps69016d61.jpg


The 90 minute boil worked well, another learning came about here, my boiler is rated at 1800W, it was enough to get my 14L of wart up to the boil but it was clearly labouring, for a larger boil it might not have coped up to 100 deg C. Also, another little learning here in that I have a lid for the boiler which excludes the need to allow - in my case 4L of liquor - for evaporation, the boiling liquid condenses on the lid and returns to the body. There was very little steam escaped into the garage which brought to mind some comments by others about steaming up their kitchens. The positive outcome to this was that I eventually recovered 12L of wart rather than the 10L I was aiming at, I was however concerned that the OG would be lower than the potential OG of 1058.

Cooling the wart went well but another learning, I used the Big Yin's excellent how to to make my immersion cooler. Its worth mentioning here another learning - that the dimensions of the cooler need to be considered in the light of the vessel in which the cooler is immersed. Mine should be shorter and wider to more effectively cool the wart. Ultimately got it down to 25Deg C and transferred it to the FV
DSC00025_zps4500e215.jpg


Ultimately I got an OG of 1050 @ 24Deg C corrected to 1051 @ 20Deg C. I was happy with that. It tasted pretty wonderful as well, looking forward to trying the finished product

Added a few cones of Styrian to dry hop the brew for aroma and pitched the starter.

I'll add another picture in a day or 2 once the fermentation has established.
15th Feb - day 2.

DSC00026_zps3d759b2c.jpg


All seems to be going well so will leave it for a week.

I had a great time doing this brew and learning about all grain BIAB, it was so different to doing a kit brew. I'll look at concocting a recipe and try another probably BIAB again the next week or so. Am still working on putting together an all grain brewery so I can sparge etc in the full blown brewing activity.

Now on the look out for a larger boiler.
 
good stuff! you will find your comfort zone eventually. i think if you tried to aim for 15L brews on the same system, you would be happy. go for lower ABV beers, less hops, and try to overshoot the OG so you can liquor back.

the lid for the boiler isn't a great idea, part of the advantage of the boil is that it boils off DMS, which translates to buttery/corny flavour in your beer. you'll have plenty of that, so don't be surprised! by all means it's not ruined, it might even be preferable to you - but you do need to boil with the lid off. you are much better to add the extra water you lost back into it at the end of the boil.

as for dry hopping, the flavour picks up better in fermented, clear beer, but it's fine the way you've done it :)

have you considered doing an extract brew first? they're really easy compared to all grain. maybe you could get your boil volume/boil off volumes and get a little practice in with everything else, then all you've gotta work out is the mashing part. it'll also mean you're not running out of beer as fast :thumb:
 
Sounds like it could be a winner, How big is your boiler in size?
There is a BIAB calc that helps you adjust your grain bill.

Out of intrest what was your grain bill and hops?

I did my first BIAB on monday and managed to get my garage all steamed up :whistle:
I did mine the the lid half on.

LeithR said:
Brew day 14/02/2013
Well, having completed the manufacture of my immersion cooler and having received my grains and hops from Rob I planned to do a 19L brew of Theakstons OP from Graham Wheelers book "Brew your own British Real Ales".

From the off it was a voyage of discovery, I learned a number of lessons during the brew day. Used Safale S04 and made up a good going starter.

The first lesson learned came early, its important to understand the volume of your planned grain bill relative to your boiler. Having measured out 4.51Kg of pale malt I realized that the total volume in my 5G boiler was not going to leave much room for the grain bill and liquor. A quick re-think and re-calculation decided me on a 10L brew.

The grain bill
th_DSC00018_zpsdaab6862.jpg

The hops
[imghttp://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag143/LeithR/leithr/DSC00019_zps966ca5ac.jpg[/img]

I brought the liquor up to the boil and added the grain bill to the mix


The 90 minute boil worked well, another learning came about here, my boiler is rated at 1800W, it was enough to get my 14L of wart up to the boil but it was clearly labouring, for a larger boil it might not have coped up to 100 deg C. Also, another little learning here in that I have a lid for the boiler which excludes the need to allow - in my case 4L of liquor - for evaporation, the boiling liquid condenses on the lid and returns to the body. There was very little steam escaped into the garage which brought to mind some comments by others about steaming up their kitchens. The positive outcome to this was that I eventually recovered 12L of wart rather than the 10L I was aiming at, I was however concerned that the OG would be lower than the potential OG of 1058.

Cooling the wart went well but another learning, I used the Big Yin's excellent how to to make my immersion cooler. Its worth mentioning here another learning - that the dimensions of the cooler need to be considered in the light of the vessel in which the cooler is immersed. Mine should be shorter and wider to more effectively cool the wart.
DSC00025_zps4500e215.jpg.html



Ultimately I got an OG of 1050 @ 24Deg C corrected to 1051 @20Deg C. I was happy with that.

Added a few cones of Styrian to dry hop the brew for aroma and pitched the starter.

I'll add another picture in a day or 2 once the fermentation has established.
 
RobWalker said:
but you do need to boil with the lid off
Just what I was thinking. Have a read of John Palmer's How to Brew available in paperback and on-line. He talks about DMS and the need to boil it off etc.

Having said that, congrats on #1. You don't mention the mash at all... how did it go?
 
Many thanks all for your comments, particularly about boiling with the lid off. I'll do that next time.
The recipe I used was:

Pale malt - 2255g
Crystal malt 123g
Chocolate malt 188g
Start of boil hops
Challenger 12g
Fuggles 6g
Last 10 mins hops
Golding 6g
Dry hop at end of boil after cooling
just a few cones of Styrian/Golding

This is a reduction of Graham Wheelers recipe. Will have to investigate the BIAB calculator, I just calculated the amounts based on the 19L brew from the book.

Didn't consider an extract brew first but another thing I learned is to create a script for the brew day - I had a few headings jotted down on paper but as the brew developed I found myself chasing round the house looking for things that I had but had not gathered together for the occasion.

Next one will go a lot smoother, I'll take your advice @Rob and try a 15L brew, I have all the ingredients for a TT Landlord so that might be the one to go for.

Once again thanks for your constructive and encouraging comments, its what makes this a great forum.
 
Firstly well done and welcome from a fellow biab brewer.

How bigs your boiler? You can do 23l brewlengths in a 19l stockpot. Also why hops in bags? If you have a hop filter the hops trap most of the trub from he protein breaks.
 
hi Rich27500,
No hop filter, need to investigate that one, these little bags came from my wife's washing powder and they seemed just ideal for the job so tried them - the size of my boiler is 25L.

Do you dilute a shorter brew length back up to 23L? If so how?
 
Great stuff... I am on my 3rd AG brew and 4th brew overall. I did one extract but am never looking back. £45 worth of hops and ingredients from Murphy and Son in Nottingham should see me good for about 200 pints (once I have bought spraymalt and bottled booze to nick yeast from) not to mention the joy of finding out what does what.

Luke
 
hi, just a question looking at your picture and you talking of boiling the water with grains in ? i hope not , i'm sure you didn't but thought i'd mention it just in case
 
@pittsy,
Unfortunately I did boil with the grain bag in the wart. So maybe this one is going to be a bit of a failure, do you have any suggestions as to a rescue plan?, Its all been an experience and the feedback has been worth the effort. :pray:
 
Did you mash first and then boil? or just boiled the whole lot? If youve boiled the grains rather than mashing them then you wont have extracted sugars i dont think and you will have extracted all the tanins and nasties that you dont want, i wouldnt have thought it will ferment properly and it will most likely taste pretty bad. Bad luck mate
 
just some info , mashing /steeping etc i've read it says once you reach a certain temp lets say sacch rest of 68c even if you drop the temp later on to say protein rest it will not work , you can only go higher . what you could of done (by boiling grains ) is allow the grains to get a good sacch rest (say 68c/71c) then slowly raise the lot to boiling , this is decoction mashing sort of ) but just going straight to boiling without allowing a rest will most likely just release tannins from the grain , if so it will be pants , sort of bitter/sharp/sour sort of . However as you only did a small amount you may get away with it .
 
p.s it is best just to soak the grains in water at around 66/68c for around 30 mins then remove grains before boiling :thumb:
 
Hi Calum,
Thanks, I found it as I was reading the comments from others, its an excellent how to. I've printed it off and will use it as a guide for AG#2 in the next few days.

So - many thanks to all who responded with such excellent advice and support.
 
LeithR said:
Hi Calum,
Thanks, I found it as I was reading the comments from others, its an excellent how to. I've printed it off and will use it as a guide for AG#2 in the next few days.

So - many thanks to all who responded with such excellent advice and support.

When's the next one? Remember that if you brew on the weekend the chat is open and there is usually someone that can help you out quickly if you get stuck or lost. I'm planning one this coming weekend too so I'll be around at least one day... :thumb:
 
1800 watts is low for a 5 gallon boiler but you'll get a better result if you insulate the boiler. Wrap round the bit that has water in with some camping mat, radiator backing or similar and you'll get a faster heat up time and a more vigorous boil. Leave the bit at the bottom that has the electrics in it uninsulated to keep it cooler.
 
Many thanks for the information and the offer, its good to know there's folk around when you need them. I'm retired so can brew any time to suit and my pal who is also interested and wants to help works offshore so he is free during the week in his field break, we just have to fit in with his golfing commitments :roll:

My thinking at the moment is to repeat the OP recipe but correct the process and maybe increase the length to 15L.
 

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