Tim_Crowhurst
Landlord.
peteplus1 said:Did a gallon of elderberry last year which i hope turns out ok upon consumption this year.
It probably won't, and that's nothing to do with your wine-making because even the best-made elderberry wine will taste rough after only nine months as it takes a long time to mature. Some say leave it three years, some say leave it for seven. Either way, your patience will be rewarded!
peteplus1 said:1. The dandelion has slowed down its ferment (2 and a bit weeks in) and i'm wondering if it's time to rack it off the lees into another demijohn? Haven't taken a reading yet.
If it's still in the primary fermenter (usually a bucket with a lid) then it's usually a good idea to get it into a DJ with a bubble lock within five to ten days. If it's in a DJ already then it's not as critical. In fact I generally avoid racking unless absolutely necessary. See my reply to the campden Q below for why.
peteplus1 said:2. Been at a constant temperature, if time to rack, is now the time to keep it cooler and would the garage be unsuitable because of the fluctuating temperature between day and night?
You're now going into the secondary fermentation phase, which is where all the interesting flavours are created. Temperature is pretty important at this point, and for most yeasts the ideal range at this point is about 17-22C. Much higher and you'll get a higher production of fusel oils (which cause hangovers). Much lower and you risk a stuck ferment (although some yeasts will ferment as low as 8C).
peteplus1 said:3. Is it necessary to introduce a campden on each racking?
Campden tablets reduce the availability of oxygen during racking, which prevents/limits oxidation. During primary fermentation you need as much oxygen as possible in the must, but during secondary fermentation the reverse is true as oxidation will destroy the wine's flavour. Excess oxygen can also promote the growth of acetobacter bacteria, which turn the alcohol into vinegar.
peteplus1 said:4. Finally, for flower wines in general, i've been told if it's just a gallon that's being made, sugar needs to be no more than 1kg as it will be too sweet. Many recipies i've seen for hawthorn, elderflower and so on though seem to be much higher...
Pete
The amount of sugar used is the most important thing in determining the amount of alcohol in the finished wine. Approximately half the sugar is turned into alcohol, the rest becoming water, carbon dioxide and a number of other chemicals like glycerine, fusel oils, esters, etc. So 1kg/gallon works out at 11-12% ABV, typical for a table wine.
Different yeast strains have different tolerances for alcohol. Some will give up at 12%, others at 18%. So if you use a strain that has a low tolerance for alcohol, once the wine reaches that limit the yeast will die and any sugar left will remain unfermented. This is how fortified wines are made: fermentation is stopped by adding a spirit (usually brandy) to raise the ABV to a level too high for the yeast to survive.
A strain of yeast with a high tolerance for alcohol (e.g. Champagne, Sauternes) will behave in exactly the same way, but will use up more sugar and produce more alcohol. If it runs out of sugar before it reaches its limit, you'll end up with a dry wine.
If you want to halt fermentation before the yeast has both fermented to dryness and reached its limit for alcohol, there are three main ways I know of: by adding brandy to make a fortified wine; by adding potassium sorbate and a campden tablet (which will generally kill off any yeast when used together); and by refrigerating the wine for a couple of months (which will also kill off the yeast).