Adding sugar

[Cwrw Bach]

At the start of the brew i added brewing sugar as instructed. Now im at the stage of adding more sugar before locating the barrell into a cold room and the kit instructions says add 85gms of sugar per 5 gallon barrell. My question is do i add 85gms of normal sugar or 85gms of brewing sugar again?

 

[pittsy]

Hi either but cane sugar is better cuz cheaper . You will need 2 weeks in warm before into cold so allow yeast to work on new sugar .

 

[Cwrw Bach]

Hi either but cane sugar is better cuz cheaper . You will need 2 weeks in warm before into cold so allow yeast to work on new sugar .

Thanks for the reply.
It says on the brew kit instructions to leave stand for 4-6 days in warm. Then syphon the brew into a pressure barrell, then Add 85gms sugar, stand in warm place for further two days, then move to cold room for 14 days.

 

[Sone]

Ignore the instructions :thumb:

 

[beerhunter]

4-6 days in the 1st FV? double that mate

 

[Cwrw Bach]

Ok then lads i will go with your advice on here. Im at the 6th day in first FV right now. So is it now i add the sugar? And do i stir it in or just add it and leave it alone?

 

[chinacat]

if i was you take a hydrometer reading if you have one , if not leave for at least 10 days two seperate days reading. if they are the same then goto second fv and add normal sugar 85 grams then leave in warm place 20-22c approx for two weeks then in cold place for two weeks then sample.
i leave secondary fermentation in bottles under bed for two weeks your using a barrel so may not go under bed so use same space as your 1st fermenter
hope that helps

 

[Cwrw Bach]

Ok chinacat, thanks for the advice. I am lookin on ebay for a hydrometer as we speak. I forgot to add its a Tom Caxton bitter brew kit. The thing i find hard the most is keeping it anythin over 19c. The standard room temperature in my house is around 18c in the warmest room. Possibly up to 19c with the heating on.

 

[dave0w]

give it 14 day in the FV even if the hydrometer says it done.

 

[ian808]

you can buy hydrometer in wilkinsons for £2.80 no need to go ebay

 

[Fil]

dont forget to get a trial jar with the hydrometer, a sterile turkey baster is a good way to fill the trial jar.

18C is a pretty good fermentation temp for a beer, its what i generally set my fermentation fridge to, too warm while quicker can also let off flavors develop.

 

[ian808]

Turkey baster, good idea never thought about using one but will get ASAP

 

[thomascrabs]

Hi, When I started out on my first brew I used some of the how to guides on this site. This one has a good blend of instructions and insight:

viewtopic.php?f=30&t=24822

Do find it strange that the companies making these kits are willing to sacrifice the quality of the end product in favour of quick brews.

I'm on my 4th kit brew now. Two words sum up what I've learned so far - sterilising and patience!

 

[calumscott]

Do find it strange that the companies making these kits are willing to sacrifice the quality of the end product in favour of quick brews.

But they're not, they're playing the numbers game and it's well researched. The money in kit brewing is not repeat business, it's first time business and from people they know aren't really going to bother. How do you get that business? Make it sound easy and quick.

The first set I found with a quick google was youngs harvest barleywine.

Ferment - 5-10 days
Carbonation - "about 7 days"
Ready when clear.

So basically they're saying that you'll have a Barleywine done and dusted, all going well inside 3 weeks. :sick:

But in reality, how many of those kits are they going to sell to people who think they're going to just make cheap beer if they tell the truth?

Ferment - At least 2 weeks, probably nearer 4 for a Barleywine
Carbonation - 2 weeks
Cold Conditioning - At least 4 weeks and probably nearer 8 for a Barleywine. Likely to be at it's best after 12 months...

How many? Exactly none.

The instructions are nothing about the beer, only about the marketing to the target market. Non-brewers. People who don't (and don't want to) understand how brewing *actually* produces good, drinkable, enjoyable even, beer.

I'm on my 4th kit brew now. Two words sum up what I've learned so far - sterilising and patience!

And there you have the first 14 rules of brewing:

1) Cleanliness
2) Patience
3) Patience
4) Patience
5) Patience
6) Patience
7) Patience
8) Patience
9) Patience
10) Patience
11) Patience
12) Patience
13) Patience
14) Patience

...

 

[mattyhall22]

Do find it strange that the companies making these kits are willing to sacrifice the quality of the end product in favour of quick brews.

But they're not, they're playing the numbers game and it's well researched. The money in kit brewing is not repeat business, it's first time business and from people they know aren't really going to bother. How do you get that business? Make it sound easy and quick.

The first set I found with a quick google was youngs harvest barleywine.

Ferment - 5-10 days
Carbonation - "about 7 days"
Ready when clear.

So basically they're saying that you'll have a Barleywine done and dusted, all going well inside 3 weeks. :sick:

But in reality, how many of those kits are they going to sell to people who think they're going to just make cheap beer if they tell the truth?

Ferment - At least 2 weeks, probably nearer 4 for a Barleywine
Carbonation - 2 weeks
Cold Conditioning - At least 4 weeks and probably nearer 8 for a Barleywine. Likely to be at it's best after 12 months...

How many? Exactly none.

The instructions are nothing about the beer, only about the marketing to the target market. Non-brewers. People who don't (and don't want to) understand how brewing *actually* produces good, drinkable, enjoyable even, beer.

I'm on my 4th kit brew now. Two words sum up what I've learned so far - sterilising and patience!

And there you have the first 14 rules of brewing:

1) Cleanliness
2) Patience
3) Patience
4) Patience
5) Patience
6) Patience
7) Patience
8) Patience
9) Patience
10) Patience
11) Patience
12) Patience
13) Patience
14) Patience

...

You forgot rule 15) Patience :thumb:

 

[OnlyFerment]

As a new brewer too I have to second the advice given to ignore the instructions and go with the longer times listed here. Definitely don't add the sugar to the FV and stir as this will get all the settled yeast back into suspension and into the barrel - you want the beer to be in the barrel and the bulk of the yeast left behind in the FV. I would also say get down to Wilkos for a hydrometer, trial jar etc. And get another kit (Perhaps a Woodfords Wherry as everyone seems to do this as a first(ish) and it is a bargain at £15) whilst you are down there as they have a sale on and the prices are generally pretty good.

Hi, When I started out on my first brew I used some of the how to guides on this site. This one has a good blend of instructions and insight:

viewtopic.php?f=30&t=24822

Do find it strange that the companies making these kits are willing to sacrifice the quality of the end product in favour of quick brews.

I'm on my 4th kit brew now. Two words sum up what I've learned so far - sterilising and patience!

It's not really that strange selling a quick brew as most people want everything now not at some indeterminate point in the future. I would say putting 21 days on the box probably puts enough people off, never mind if it said at least 6 weeks but might be 4 months or more before it is at its best. HB stops sounding so money saving if you were told the truth on timescales up front and you start doing the maths on how many pressure barrels and kits brewed blind you need to see you through that first few months 'beer gap' - and I'm pretty sure that would put even more people off. It sounds a lot better when all you need is a bucket, kit and a 'few bottles'.

That said with patience hopefully you will end up with a decent supply of good beer (and then wines and ciders too). Good luck, and don't let my cynicism of the kit makers put you off.

Dave

 

[calumscott]

Exactly right, Dave.

And that's the thing, the people that are left after the initial disappointment of the cheap starter kits move very quickly to brewing in cycle and brewing premium two can kits and making good beer and ignoring the marketing hype.

In fact a significant number of those move on to extract or all grain brewing fairly quickly (assuming they have the space and time) as they realise the limitations of kits and modifications to kits.

 

[NickW]

In fact a significant number of those move on to extract or all grain brewing fairly quickly (assuming they have the space and time) as they realise the limitations of kits and modifications to kits.

I can attest to this. I did two kits and after tasting the results wasn't overly impressed. I thought "stuff this, may as well go all grain". Bought basic startup gear second hand off this forum for £65 and I've been making good and great beer ever since. Things can only get better.

The other benefit is, all grain brews seem to be ready a LOT quicker than kits, unsure of the reasons behind this, but I find it to be true.

 

[Pjam]

I did two kits and after tasting the results wasn't overly impressed. I thought "stuff this

I think I can make really lovely beer from kits, mind they need to be the 2 tins kits and you must give them plenty of time, both in FV and in the bottle.........

But then I don't know how much better I might have with AG :?

 

[calumscott]

I did two kits and after tasting the results wasn't overly impressed. I thought "stuff this

I think I can make really lovely beer from kits, mind they need to be the 2 tins kits and you must give them plenty of time, both in FV and in the bottle.........

But then I don't know how much better I might have with AG :?

What I've found is that my AG is always at least as good as my very best kits, my best AG much, much better...

YMMV.