Achieving 38C in a Kegerator!

[Seghes]

I have built and run a successful Kegerator system that works with an InkbirdSmart temp controller and a 40W tube heater. I’m ready to brew a rather wacky NEIPA that requires a fermenting temperature up to 38C, yes I had to look twice as well. (I’m still beginner-ish and maybe this is more normal than I think?)
Haven’t tested it but I’m sure my Kegerator set up won’t achieve that temp. I also have a Grainfather Fermenter Pro, which apparently can go to 12 degrees above ambient - so that would be c28 for me - well short.
So is my best route to double up the tube heater (cheap) to achieve 80W? Anyone done something similar or should I try something else?

 

[Buffers brewery]

Putting the 38C fermenting temperature to one side as I can’t comment on that one, regarding heating your kegerator it depends on the heat losses and where the kegerator is situated (unheated garage or a heated room). The choice of heater (40W or 80W) will determine how quickly it heats up primarily. Provided the kegerator is well insulated and the 40W heater can keep up with any heat losses, it will (eventually) get there and maintain it just might be a bit slow. Best thing to do is try it out. Good luck

 

[xozzx]

So you must be using a kviek yeast which are often good to about 40C. If you pitch at about 38-40C the fermentation will be vigorous and create a lot of heat, you will probably find your cooling is coming on rather than the heating. After about 3 days the fermentation will finish and the temp will start to slowly drop (unless you have the heater on). I would just let it drop over a few days to 20C, add your dry hops, hold for 3-4 days then cold crash.

 

[Leon103]

I have a 60w tube heater in my fridge and it can hit 38c

 

[RoomWithABrew]

I have fermented up to 38 c ( haven't gone higher as that was the temp I wanted).
My fermenter ( fermentasurus) is in a fridge freezer, I transfer out of kettle at 45 so that by the time it has filled and been oxygenated it drops to about the right temp.
Pitch the yeast ( kveik I assume ) scream at it and then I have a heatbelt as the heat source on the brewpiless temp controller.
I plug in the cooling in just in case it gets too hot during the active ferment and let it go. I do use some supplementary insulation bubble wrap around the fermenter just to stop dumping when the fridge is opened.
Once active ferment is over keeping the temp up I see more activity of the heat belt, I did first dry hopping towards the end of ferment identified with ispindel, then lowered temp to 12c for the second dry hops.
Be very careful about oxygen as oxidation will occur much quicker at those high temps, I have the hops on magnets suspended above the wort to slide in and out when needed.
Don't blink or you'll miss the last few points of your ferment if you want biotransformation of your dry hop.
Couple of pictures showing some of the insulation in place whilst purging kegs and a finished result.

 

[Hoagie]

If you get the conical jacket, you’ll get 20c above ambient. I’ve done it.

Although I wouldn’t worry too much about the temp, get it high and stable. If you get to 32c, it might just take an extra few hours to ferment out and won’t effect the flavour.

 

[RoomWithABrew]

It's not a race it's beer making, as @Hoagie says keep it warm. I have done them with just a sleeping bag over the fermentasaurus and then 2litre milk cartons filled with hot water changed every few hours.
I wish there was such a thing as a child size electric blanket as it would be perfect for this kind of thing.

 

[Seghes]

Thanks to you all for those super helpful contributions; @Buffers brewery @xozzx @Leon103 @Hoagie @RoomWithABrew
I’m now very encouraged about the way forward. (BTW, yes of course the yeast is WHC Framgarden, a kveik farmhouse yeast from Norway). Looking forward to the “grapefruit, pineapple and lemongrass masterpiece” taste as the brochure said!