1st ag timothy taylor

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danb

Landlord.
Joined
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im ready for the 1st ag this weekend which will be a timothy taylor landlord clone from gw book. i have been playing with brewmate software and put in the figures from the book.
when i put the recipe into brewmate i had to change the black malt to 55g from 30g as in the book to get the colour up to 20 EBC. should i go with the 30g or 55g?

im aiming for 23l in the fv
so using
4250g pale malt - is maris otter ok?
30g/55g black malt

hops
start of boil
golding 30g are these the same as east kent goldings? the supplier im going to has both.
styrian golding 30g

10 min
styrian golding 20g
1 x protofloc tablet

using nottingham ale yeast

going for 90min mash and 90min boil

im using the biab method, if i heat the starting water upto 71'c is this about right before draining some to a stock pot for sparging then doughing in.
heating up to 76'c for the last 10 mins of mash for lifting out the bag.
ill heat up the remaining liquer in the stock pot to 76'c for sparging in a fv to add some before the boil aswell as topping up during the boil as im using a 30l boiler.
at 10 min ill put in the immersion chiller to sterilise before use.

ive removed the thermal cut off from the boiler, is there any thing else need to do to the boiler before i get on with it.

does this sound about right and any advise would be much appreciated. im going to write out a checklist for brewday and take my time to try and get it right.
 
will be mashing at 66'c and i am sure i had read about when boiling with the buffalo boilers to get to a rolling boil set at 110'c then turn it back to 100'c but cant remember why.

and on brewmate when i click brew day i dont understand the losses to trub and chiller should this be set at 0?

is the total liquor of 32.6l correct

thanks
 
Hi Dan,

Stick to the 30g, GW's recipes are bang on (or at least the two I've done have been)...

Maris Otter is the way forward. :thumb:

Never been quite sure on the varieties of Golding but I'm sure EKG will be great.

Method looks fine too.

32l looks short to me, I usually start with 36 or 37 and always come up short... my boil off is horrendous though! :lol:
 
thanks mate on brewmate i set the evaporation to 10% and losses to trub at 1.6 i get total water required as 32.65
and ive got efficiency on 70% as i havent done it before not sure what it actually is.
 
danb said:
im ready for the 1st ag this weekend which will be a timothy taylor landlord clone from gw book. i have been playing with brewmate software and put in the figures from the book.
when i put the recipe into brewmate i had to change the black malt to 55g from 30g as in the book to get the colour up to 20 EBC. should i go with the 30g or 55g?

im aiming for 23l in the fv
so using
4250g pale malt - is maris otter ok?
30g/55g black malt

hops
start of boil
golding 30g are these the same as east kent goldings? the supplier im going to has both.
styrian golding 30g

10 min
styrian golding 20g
1 x protofloc tablet

using nottingham ale yeast

going for 90min mash and 90min boil

im using the biab method, if i heat the starting water upto 71'c is this about right before draining some to a stock pot for sparging then doughing in.
heating up to 76'c for the last 10 mins of mash for lifting out the bag.
ill heat up the remaining liquer in the stock pot to 76'c for sparging in a fv to add some before the boil aswell as topping up during the boil as im using a 30l boiler.
at 10 min ill put in the immersion chiller to sterilise before use.

ive removed the thermal cut off from the boiler, is there any thing else need to do to the boiler before i get on with it.

does this sound about right and any advise would be much appreciated. im going to write out a checklist for brewday and take my time to try and get it right.

hi mate, I would go for the 30g of black malt to start with, just follow the recipe, don't worry to much about ibu and ebu's etc, that can come later.
the goldings hops will be fine.
to start with heat your mash water to about 76 degrees I would say as you will lose temp when adding the grains and grain bag and you should hit around 66-68 degrees I would think. use 2.5L of mash water to a kilo of grain. once mashed take the grains out into a sieve and sparge with water around 80 degrees, untill you get your desired boil volume.

losses to trub and chiller just means how much liquid you will lose to absorption from hops, proteins, dead space (the amount of liquid that sits under your boiler tap before it starts coming out) etc and if you are planning on using a wort chiller you will lose a certain amount of liquid through evaporation, this will be different for everyone on their individual setup so don't worry about this just now, if your chilling in the bath then just ignore this. 32.6L in total pre boil sounds about right to end up with 23L post boil, you can always just do a 60 min boil to start with if you are losing too much through evaporation.
 
I agree, stick with GW amounts. I've never yet got the color numbers to match with his in the book, however when your brew is done if you hold it up to the light ( computer screen its almost spot on with brewmates color illustration, very surprising.
EKG hops are fine to use I've found
 
:hmm: No, the colour doesn't stack up at all...

Beersmith says 80g which is a quite a lot to hit 20EBC.

I would stick with it as per the recipe, I think loads of people have done this one and rave about it. It's not going to change the flavour much and if it's too light, well you'll just have to brew another one! :thumb:
 
i will be using a chiller to cool down and i thought for losses i could put so much water in to say the 10l mark then put in the chiller and see what reading is on the sight glass and just add a bit more to losses of trub.

when i calibrated the sight glass i had alreading filled the boiler and let it drain to leave in the dead space.

when you say 2.5l per kg i thought biab was mashing will the full volume or if the pots not big enough like mine using as much as possible then sparging the remaining amount to get upto volume.
 
Yup I'm another who has done this recipe from GW's book, stick witht the recipe, it is a good one :thumb:
 
bloody hell lol seems everything states different amounts and ways. i think for my first bew ill go with the total amount in the book and use the recipe as stated. although they dont have irish moss where im going tomorrow will protofloc make a difference?
and just record all amounts through out and record everything to post up and hopefully get help to see what needs changing and working out. cant wait :D
 
go with the book, and make notes. Your first few brews are always problematic with volumes until you get use to your own system. Just look on it as a bloody good excuse to get a couple more brews on the go.... :D ...
ts a good job its an easy drinking pint... :party:
 
one last thing before the new thread of brewday with pics.

if i say mash with 23l water then keep the 7l back for sparging after. does this sound ok? i dont know how much the grain increases the volume so thinking go with 23l mash instead of 25/26l :cheers:
 
danb said:
one last thing before the new thread of brewday with pics.

if i say mash with 23l water then keep the 7l back for sparging after. does this sound ok? i dont know how much the grain increases the volume so thinking go with 23l mash instead of 25/26l :cheers:

what size boiler do you have? aye just add the grain bag slowly, if its getting near the top let some more out. you'll be fine man, hope you have a good day! :cheers:
 
Good luck with your 1st, as others have said stick to the recipe it really is one of the best from the book, although I've never brewed it with that yeast. Any problems come back to the site. There is normally someone around to help.
 
fetched the bag this morning and looks good. need to make a small adjustment before brewday. all fits good but the top is a bit tight just needs opening up a bit.
 
danb said:
..... i think for my first bew ill go with the total amount in the book and use the recipe as stated. although they dont have irish moss where im going tomorrow will protofloc make a difference?

You can just use protofloc instead of irish moss, no problem :thumb:
 
Best of luck! The good thing about following a recipe exactly is it allows you to figure out your efficiencies and how much you lose in boil etc. You'll learn loads about your setup from the first brew, hope you enjoy it
 

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