metal micky
Active Member
I would like to control my mash temperature and would like some advice from as to which system to go for I have been looking at the new ATC-800+. would this be suitable for a 10 gall brew
mash tun - pids atc-800+
- Thread starter metal micky
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Vossy1
Landlord.
In what way do you mean control mm? If you're thinking of using a HERMS/RIMS best not use a ATC. They only have 'on and off' modes, and can't 'learn' the response of your system to changes being applied ie, heating.
EDIT, STC 1000's are also cheaper :thumb:
EDIT, STC 1000's are also cheaper :thumb:
Vossy1
Landlord.
DaveMack
Regular.
Vossy1 said:
First dibs on all your gear if you do :lol:
metal micky
Active Member
I really need it for controlling the temp during the mash, which one would you recommend, like to keep it simple for wiring etc, price not a problem within reason
![BREWING THERMOMETER STICKERS ACCURATELY MONITOR FERMENTING BEER & WINE LIQUID TEMPERATURES 5PCS HOME BREW SPIRITS WINE LCD ADHESIVE [US]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/311DDjo2X3L._SL500_.jpg)
Vossy1
Landlord.
:lol:
Personally, I like the Auber one linked, I have 2 of them. There are some 'deals' on e-bay at the mo, well worth a look.
I like the Auber ones as well, I have a few of those, and a couple of the Chinese ones . . .Auber wins hands down even though they are made in the same factory.
Might have to get myself another couple of Auber ones as I need to build a couple of thermometers for my POSCOS . . . And may rig it up to a blower, to try and get a mode stable temperature in the cooking chamber
Might have to get myself another couple of Auber ones as I need to build a couple of thermometers for my POSCOS . . . And may rig it up to a blower, to try and get a mode stable temperature in the cooking chamber
Hi guys,
I bought a PID offof ebay last year sometime for bargain price £16 and finally got round to building it up at the weekend, only to find that the input cannot be selected (only K-type thermocouple it came with) and set to whole number degrees C. So beware of the 'Rex C100' FKxx series which are restricted to 'K' types EDIT it can be, read later post. Looks like I'll have to order another one, I've now got 2 PT100s to plug into it. I may utilise the REX-C100 to control my HLT instead of the other simple temp controller I have to move from my kegerator on brew days.
I'm looking at some others on ebay at the moment but there aren't any 'Auber' ones.
This one is about £20
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150684608624? ... 1438.l2649
I bought a PID offof ebay last year sometime for bargain price £16 and finally got round to building it up at the weekend, only to find that the input cannot be selected (only K-type thermocouple it came with) and set to whole number degrees C. So beware of the 'Rex C100' FKxx series which are restricted to 'K' types EDIT it can be, read later post. Looks like I'll have to order another one, I've now got 2 PT100s to plug into it. I may utilise the REX-C100 to control my HLT instead of the other simple temp controller I have to move from my kegerator on brew days.
I'm looking at some others on ebay at the moment but there aren't any 'Auber' ones.
This one is about £20
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150684608624? ... 1438.l2649
Springer
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Its easy to make a mistake PJ I bought a PID without SSR output, 
never mind it controls my heated cupboard very well :)
What the difference between the Aubers and the Chinese ones A ? apart from the price and better instructions
I knew it was going to be hard when the first heading on my Chinese instructions read Genital information instead of General :lol:
S
never mind it controls my heated cupboard very well :) What the difference between the Aubers and the Chinese ones A ? apart from the price and better instructions
I knew it was going to be hard when the first heading on my Chinese instructions read Genital information instead of General
:lol: S
Vossy1
Landlord.
:lol:
Easy mistake to make pj. The K type should be pretty accurate, give it the ice bath and boiling test, see what the results are. IIRC mine was out at 100 deg c, but I can't remember by how much....(3 deg springs to mind :shock: ..but that's just a punt in the old grey matter)
Very little I would imagine. The like for like ones are probably made in the same factory in China then re-badged for customers world wide (at this price). Once you start looking at the more expensive controllers I would imagine the price reflects the build.
More on the REX C100. I emailed the company in australia (F M Franklin) from some instructions I downloaded. Basically, if you bought yours from ebay in Hong Kong, it's definitely not (edit, yes it is but tricky, read on) possible to change the input. He sent me some instructions with this explanation.
The C100 series will NOT automatically recognize any change in probe type, however, there does exist the facility to change it within the inbuilt software but I must add a rider to this. In the last several months we have seen some controls that look almost identical to the genuine RKC C100 series but they are not identical! The major difference is in some components and also in the software. The cheap knockoffs don't have the ability to change, so I am hoping yours is a genuine unit.
First thing you need to do is print out the attached setting manual. This explains how to get into the engineering level of the instrument. You need to set parameter SL1 to equal 1100. You will also need to rest SLH, SLL and oH as the decimal point will also have shifted. You also need to be aware that if your unit has any alarm outputs fitted then the appropriate differential settings will also need attantion ( AH1 & AH2 )
You also need to be aware that the proportional band setting ( parameter P in the main menu ) will also have shifted.
The procedure is very simple and very basic and provided the unit is a genuine unit, the change should take no more than about a minute to achieve.
Not surprisingly, mine would not enter the engineering level. :geek:
Edit,
However, doing some digging on other forums Iâve found that the setting procedures are almost as described for another controller, the CD101, instructions for which are here
http://mightyohm.com/wiki/resources:cd101
To get to the settings area you need to specify the âLockâ value as 1000 NOT 0100 as stated, hold down SET and SHIFT for 5 seconds, once there âCodâ pops up, follow the instructions from the user manual and the input type and decimal point position can be chosen. :ugeek:
Final Edit: I've got the ba$tard working with the âPT100+â Probe. The setting for this (and PT100 probes) according to the chinese instructions is SL1 as 1000 NOT 1100. Eureka! Iâll have probes coming out of my ears when the others arrive.
The C100 series will NOT automatically recognize any change in probe type, however, there does exist the facility to change it within the inbuilt software but I must add a rider to this. In the last several months we have seen some controls that look almost identical to the genuine RKC C100 series but they are not identical! The major difference is in some components and also in the software. The cheap knockoffs don't have the ability to change, so I am hoping yours is a genuine unit.
First thing you need to do is print out the attached setting manual. This explains how to get into the engineering level of the instrument. You need to set parameter SL1 to equal 1100. You will also need to rest SLH, SLL and oH as the decimal point will also have shifted. You also need to be aware that if your unit has any alarm outputs fitted then the appropriate differential settings will also need attantion ( AH1 & AH2 )
You also need to be aware that the proportional band setting ( parameter P in the main menu ) will also have shifted.
The procedure is very simple and very basic and provided the unit is a genuine unit, the change should take no more than about a minute to achieve.
Not surprisingly, mine would not enter the engineering level. :geek:
Edit,
However, doing some digging on other forums Iâve found that the setting procedures are almost as described for another controller, the CD101, instructions for which are here
http://mightyohm.com/wiki/resources:cd101
To get to the settings area you need to specify the âLockâ value as 1000 NOT 0100 as stated, hold down SET and SHIFT for 5 seconds, once there âCodâ pops up, follow the instructions from the user manual and the input type and decimal point position can be chosen. :ugeek:
Final Edit: I've got the ba$tard working with the âPT100+â Probe. The setting for this (and PT100 probes) according to the chinese instructions is SL1 as 1000 NOT 1100. Eureka! Iâll have probes coming out of my ears when the others arrive.
adeybambam
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Is the ebay one you link to on your earlier post suitable? Looks it to me....
metal micky
Active Member
I have got most of the electrical stuff from Auber, but will a 25Amp SSR be ok for a 2.4Kw heater??
simonranson
Regular.
metal micky said:
That'll be no problem.
Simon
Swift Pint
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ahah!
Good stuff PJ, got one of those at home & thought I would be resigned to using it with a K-type.
Is it quite straight forward changing the SLH, SLL and oH, AH1 & AH2 and proportional band settings??
Good stuff PJ, got one of those at home & thought I would be resigned to using it with a K-type.
Is it quite straight forward changing the SLH, SLL and oH, AH1 & AH2 and proportional band settings??
metal micky
Active Member
re 25amp ssr - thanks simon
Loetz
Landlord.
pjbiker said:
ditto this for mine!
pjbiker said:
And ditto this too... I think. I don't have a good thermometer handy to compare the readings, but it looks pretty accurate with the 1000 setting. If I change the setting to 1100, I get a PV of 0.000 and SV of 0.000.
What does the proportional band setting do?
Mark1964
Landlord.
We bought 2 of the auber pids must say they are good and easy to wire up too
