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I use plastic JG fittings on mine with no issue. I think it would only be a problem if constantly taking them on and off again. Mine haven't had need to take them off in the 2 years since I put them on.

I suspect that would work. I have never had to modify the thermostat on either my keezer, kegerator or fermentation fridge. As long as the heated jacket fits in, I imagine it would be fine (I'm not sure how big they are or how they work).

Can I join second in the queue please? Depending where in Surrey you are, I may be able to collect.

AFAIK you need the demand valve (the round white one). Buying cheep may be a false economy here.

Like I said, that was based off the original question being about the types of kegs that let air (and thus oxygen) in. If being consumed in a session, then for most styles, oxygen ingress is not an issue.

https://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/product/gas-free-ball-lock-line-cleaning-kit/ This is the one.

If you're "keg conditioning", which I assume you are due to asking about the minikegs from breweries, then that suggests you're not worried about oxygen ingress, thus I would get the line cleaning (kegland) kit from MM and add it to the top of a bottle someone has already linked to. At work atm...

Line length and diameter definitely play a part, but as @MickDundee said, that pressure is too high provided you are serving at lager temperature. What temperature are you serving at?

To be honest, that was my initial thought before I went in to the "if I were doing it myself" mode, where I decided I would have the 3/16 fed out of the drain hole and lag all the way to the tower. The reason I prefer that approach is: No drilling or making holes in fridge No risk of damaging...

I would give something like this a go. I suspect you'll be using 3/16 line from fridge to tower, which will be quite flexible. https://www.diy.com/departments/climaflex-polyethylene-foam-pipe-lagging-l-1m-dia-15mm/5413257001143_BQ.prd

These are good suggestions!

All good mate, I didn't take it that way thumb. Yeah, it's a hefty lump of cash, for sure! I'd say if you like nitro beers generally, you'll get as much value out of it as you did your CO2 set-up.

I think I misunderstood, thinking £300 was for a regulator and gas only. Although I know the wall mounted regulator is in the thread title, I just wondered if it was a dealbreaker as you linked a bottle mounted reg in a subsequent post. Given your circumstances (requirement for wall mounted...

By "fermenter isn't close", is it in the same room? I have a JG splitter with a fairly long (~3m) length of 3/16 and a grey disconnect that I use for that sort of thing. When not in use, it can easily be coiled up and hung on a hook out the way. Having just seen Buffer's post, I might be...

That's a great idea!

I have a mixed gas set-up which is great. I wouldn't be paying £300 for it though, that's for sure! Forgive me if I missed it, but what's wrong with the regulator you posted here? With a cylinder of mixed gas, you'll spend no more than £70 all in (potentially more like £150 if you have to...

I went down the nitro and don't be put off. If you've done CO2 before, the only difference is the regulator. The one you linked from Brew Keg Tap is adequate and states in the description that it accepts 3/8 gas line as it has 3/8 pushfit, and acknowledges that it is different from the one pictured.

I lent a friend one of my Angram CQ and he bought a demand valve from RLBS - it was faulty like yours appears to be. They exchanged it for a working one with no issues. One of my second-hand beer engines leaked from the bottom of the cylinder, so I got a spare part to fix it. The engines...

I'm interested. I shall DM you

Incidentally I got a very negative reaction when messaging some other brewers that I planned to use pumpkin, despite it being from a recipe in a highly-regarded book :( I don't see how it is different to using rice in a rice lager for example, in so much that they are both alternatives to...