Search results

Don't know if this helps but you can find a recipe for viking alpine ale which. Includes honey at Brewers Friend. Just Google viking honey ale. Cheers

Sorry guys that went into the wrong thread!

Thanks everyone for your help and advice. I've just tasted the first two brews bottled following your recommendations and both are fabulous! Both are golden ales and are perfectly golden in colour and are without the dark flavours which tainted some of my previous efforts. I started using a beer...

The video is really informative thanks. I've got a few ideas now and I'm definitely going to get a wand and stop shaking my bottles. Thanks everyone!

Ok thanks I've re-read your post about plastic bottles and I get it now! Bit slow on the uptake! I'll try these and also improvise a temporary lid for the fv whilst bottling.

That's really interesting thanks, I hadn't thought of that. My current technique uses a simple syphon tube and a muslin bag but the fv lid has to be open for the half hour or so that I'm bottling. Is that enough time? I've checked out the bottle wand but please can you describe the plastic...

Thanks for your help everyone, I'm sure now that the problem is oxidation and I have to assume that the oxygen is getting in via the airlock hole or around the rim during fermentation because that's the only variable left. Don't think it's the age of the kits because the two IPA s were limited...

The citra IPA brews were simple extract kits which didn't require any boiling. They fermented at the same temperature a week apart with the only difference being the fv, one of which didn't show any bubbles through the airlock. Could oxygen get in through an imperfectly sealed airlock hole...

The majority of my brews end up darker than I expect. It's pretty consistent now after more than 50 brews mostly from kits but often part grain brews. So the pale ales are dark gold, the golden ales are amber, and IPAs are even darker. They also have a caramel flavour. What can I be doing wrong...

Good question! I live in Scotland so cooling doesn't seem to be a problem! To be fair our initial issues were all to do with keeping the brews warm enough to keep going in an unheated workshop and heating was the issue. I don't check the temp in the workshop but I'm sure it never goes above 20...

Yes I've noticed on the controller that there are two settings. One for warming and one for cooling so you could use it with fans. Good luck!

Hope these give you the idea. Dimensions are 890x535x700high. With a bit of care you can get the whole box out of one sheet. We put duct tape around the top edges to stop them crumbling and I recently added a solid top so it can be used as a work surface when bottling. The thermostat can be set...

You might consider a solution which a mate and I thought up after a few pints. We built a box out of 50 mm Kingspan big enough for 2 fvs and taped some soil warming cable to the inside. We reinforced it with 1/2 inch dowel. It's controlled by a thermostat and mounted on a piece of plywood fitted...