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Try Shipyard Low Tide. I also think that Adnams Ghost Ship is a near miss. But, what do you really need? If it's virtually no alcohol, then buy Ghost ship and stir in a good teaspoon of maltodextrin. Body increased, too much carbonation gone in one fell swoop! But, if you only want...

I really need to test this with commercial beers. I have in mind Brewdog's Hazy Jane, which is probably the most hop-oriented beer I know. I plan to keep some cans for a few months, six months, and then a year or two and see what changes do take place. Probably all been done before, I guess...

It also depends on which way you want it - up or down! Some yeasts are highly flocculant, and settle out quickly. Others are highly flocculant, and rise to the top. Flocculant really means sticking together. My favourite yeast used to be Brewlab East Midlands 1. A huge top-cropper, that...

I used to use it in hanging baskets, but these days it's just gone to pot

I would go for adjusting hops for bitterness early in the boil, and for flavour stick to very late additions, if not "whirlpool". I will take a lot of convincing that a hop addition in the last 5 mins of the boil is going to produce a noticeable difference in flavour compared to a post-boil...

You absolutely don't need to prime your kegs - but if you don't you'll need to carb them up with CO₂ from a cylinder. But you'll need to do that anyway, if you want the beer to be similarly carbed from the first to the last pint. How long it needs to condition depends upon you. If you force...

You might try some leaf hops with hot water in a cafetiere, to make a strong hop tea, then adding a dash of that to your beer on pouring. That way you could evaluate the effect of different varieties as "dry hops" with the same basic brew. I guess that it's not likely to be exactly the same as...

Err.... not wishing to be a Casandra here, but....... Two weeks ago I started a golden ale using Wyeast 1728 Scottish. I've used this before, and I like it for malty beers with no real phenolic yeast input to the flavour. Very clean indeed at the low temperatures I typically use. The pack...

Slightly off the wall thought.... If you like beer-engine style low-carbed ales, try leaving a couple of the bottles for another month or two. I think it's very likely they will carbonate slightly, even without priming, and quite probably give you well matured beer more like a pub pint than a...

Yes, hoppyscotty, everything you say is entirely logical. I suppose that the only reason I don't do that is because I wouldn't want to ferment in the "cube", so once he wort had cooled I'd have to transfer it from the cube to my fermenting bucket. For me, an unnecessary additional step.

I'd agree that it doesn't really matter. If you sparge, you get greater efficiency. If you don't you'll need more grain to hit your OG. But I also suspect that there would be some difference in the final beers. I've always sparged, using quite a large volume of water over a long time. My...

Agreed. Chances of a problem are very low indeed.

Terrym's summary on dry hopping is pretty much all you need to know. Cold crashing is a method of speeding up maturation of beer. It's usually done soon after fermentation is finished, and the beer is reduced in temperature in a fridge. This does two things. It stops any further fermentation...

Not something I've seen, but it seems to be a tin of malt extract. If so, it definitely is not a kit. This gives you 2 possibilities: 1. Use it to augment a one-can kit instead of sugar, as cheeseyfeet suggests. This should give you a maltier, tastier brew than the standard, bare kit - but...

Well, I would expect that your finished beer would be fully saturated with CO₂, for its temperature. But not super-saturated after 3 weeks, such that putting a hydrometer in would cause a release of CO₂ gas, unless you fermented under pressure and then subsequently reduced the pressure to normal...

Well, there are loads of opinions about this. My take is, at maximum, there are 3 phases: 1: Bittering. So leave high-alpha hops in for the whole of your boil, maybe 60mins. Not much hop flavour as such, bittering is pretty much all you get - but that's all you need at this stage. 2...

These days, I usually transfer from FV to a μpvc jerrycan/carboy, thoroughly flush with CO₂, and leave the beer there before kegging for a couple of weeks. As you imply, the main reason I do this is to reduce the amount of sediment in the keg (and of course, the idea is to free up the brew...

In the early 1970s, I worked in Saudi Arabia on a fisheries project in the Red Sea. During that time, Sir Peter Scott visited Saudi, to talk about setting up a Marine National Park in the Red Sea. We were detailed to take him snorkelling on the reef beside our coastal laboratory. So, I was...

I would definitely not drink that. It definitely looks to me like mould, and certain moulds can produce quite nasty toxins. Plus, for mould to grow, I think there must have been oxygen in the headspace, so the beer would almost certainly be very poor anyway.

Up until now, I've always left my wort to cool naturally in the kettle after boiling. Depending upon ambient temperature, and the volume of wort, this can take quite a while (typically 24-36hrs). To minimise the risk of infection, I normally pull a new bin-bag over the top of the kettle & pull...