If you contact the Craft Brewing Association, they have a guide to setting up a club (well the way the Midland Craft Brewers Did it), Plus you have Northern Craft Brewers that cover your 'region'. I'm sure that you can ask around to get more knowledgeable people to come down and give a talk or...
Er . . no . . . the bitterness is a constant . . . unless you dilute the kit with more water
Sugar is a nitrogen and flavour (malt) dilutant, and thins the body as well.
Basically to answer the OP's question, the more malt you have in your beer the better quality the beer will bee . . .The...
The funny thing is that I actually feel a lot of remorse for the fact that a new member has left. Still I did apologise for having a rant at other posters in the same post that I actually answered his question first, yeah I should have quoted the other posts I was referring to, or done it in a...
Mr Lard aka Home Brew Builder, not quite at Bergland prices but better than Powell or Angel HB . . . plus it's not Berglands supplier, quality is superior. :thumb:
It doesn't drive me (efficiency), I do get better lautering from my own milling though, and a better crush although that is probably down to conditioning the malt before crushing.
I bought my own mill because I wanted to brew some of the Durden park beers which require the production of pale...
I've not used that strain, but as it is a German yeast strain, it should give the appropriate flavour profile, and it's the German Rule of 30 so should apply.
Some yeast strains give more clove, some more banana, some are neutral. I'd try it and see
If it's a lot of floating crud (Like you get with top cropping yeast like WLP029 Burton Ale or US05) then its both,
If it's just a little bit of stuff and the beer is clear . . . get on and bottle
I make my own wooden crates from 3" by 3/4" sawn timber . . . It used to be Pallets but I just couldn't be bothered knocking the pallets apart and it damaged the wood to do so. but It's cheap enough to buy carcasing, and knock up my own crates.
Which is no hardship, Organise the bottles in size order, and adjust when you get to the next size . . . 5 - 10 seconds . . . of course if you have 40 bottles all of different heights . . . . you need more bottles :D
I'm just about to bottle the remains of 4 cornies worth of beer into bottles...
Just wanted to ask, if you are selling stuff on the Bay of E, is it jolly bad form edit your listing to say
"STOP WATCHING THIS AND GET BIDDING YOU CHEAPSKATES!!"
I suspect the answer may be yes, but wanted to check :whistle: :whistle: :whistle:
:thumb: +1 to that
As I said in the thread another part of the forum to avoid, another topic to not get involved with, even if the advice given is wrong /*****
(Yeah that was me being tactless again)
As I keep reminding myself RDWHAHB
I bought mine a horse, and I work on the principle that as it costs close on 3 grand a year to keep the thing, I have 3 grand a year that I can spend on toys . . . . She agrees . . . Job Done.
So my advice is Buy Her a Horse!!
Brewery kegs are designed to be used with Chlorinated caustics in Keg washers, using caustic soda, at the strength you have said will not cause any issues. . . . Personally if it is really mankey then I would fill the keg completely, with a strong solution, and leave it to soak . . . Actually I...
Just remember that these ratings are the point at which the PRV 'valve' on the keg lifts. In this way the lower rated cornys are actually 'safer', although technically if you have a decent regulator it will have it's own PRV as well
Chris, I'm not being negative, but, priming a pressure barrel with 120g of sugar will not cause issues because as you say the PRV lifts at 10 psi . . .this actually protects against over carbonation as well as being a safety issue. I can see no real issue with 'only' having a 40 or 60 psi rating...