Search results

How do you find the malt pipe? I’ve been trying to work out if it’s worth it over BIAB! Is it easy to lift out when full?

My understanding (I have done a little research for an upcoming brew) is that American wheat should be fairly hop forward in the new world style fruity hops sort of like an American pale ale, with a hefty wheat addition and a fairly clean yeast.

Make sure you wash your bottles thoroughly before reuse. When I know I’ve used a diastaticus yeast I tend to bleach soak the bottle after drinking then oxi soak the bottle before bottling. Probably over kill but you don’t want future bottle bombs! I also find it’s a good way of making sure all...

Tap and bottling wand. Brew 2 bottle sell them together so you know they fit!

It would be great to know what malt you’re selling in the listings, maybe it’s just because I’m on mobile but it just comes up with “no19 floor marris otter” which I assume is crisp? The rest are just “rye” “pale” etc

I use GEB, I find when comparing prices to others that I would normally be paying more elsewhere even when the postage is taken into account. Crossmyloof for forgotten bits

Let us know how they go!!

For reference, W34/70 lists ideal fermentation temperature as 12-15c so if you have added priming sugar and then stored the bottles at 6c they are unlikely to have fermented the sugar!

Yep, that doesn't take into account carbing up! You can carb at 12c as I assume you fermented at 12c? But you're probably talking another 3 or 4 weeks to carb up at that temp. Personally I would stick them at 20c for 2 weeks and then return to your lagering temp.

After bottling did you leave them somewhere warm to carb up for a couple of weeks? I find that all my bottle conditioned beers need 2 weeks at 20C or maybe 10 days at 23C to get rid of the green apple taste I get from the priming sugar. I find that IPAs especially very hoppy ones I don’t...

I’d have thought jester would work well in an easy drinking English ale. It should give a small amount of fruitiness in my experience but more of a clean hop fruitiness than the heavy raisin character some English yeasts give which I think is what you are trying to avoid!

Reusing yeast. I’ve also never bought a new bottle. Have about 100 swing tops bought from Facebook for £10 and various commercial bottles (only the ones that the label will soak off!)

Yes that’s it. Just keep the bottles vaguely at room temperature. The warmer they are the quicker they will carb but don’t sweat to much if you’re house is not that warm, just give them extra time

Definitely. The first two weeks allow fermentation to complete. I’m not saying you can’t make this step shorter but that is something that you will get a feel for as you get more experience second two weeks with priming sugar in a warm place allows the beverage to carbonate.I use table sugar...

Rule of thumb is 2 weeks in primary, 2 weeks in secondary (pressure barrel) with sugar to prime, 2 weeks conditioning (preferably cool)

I’m in!!

That looks like a 8-10L batch? I’d Chuck half the mosaic in at flameout (no bittering additions) and the rest in 3 days before bottling.

I bitter with chinook often. I think it adds a little piney/resinous flavour but perhaps that’s just because I know it’s in there. Anyway point being I like it!

I fine all my beer with Gelatin and achieve crystal clear beers, especially when I use crisp clear choice malt. All my beers are bottled

I do 8L batches and one canister (8gram I think) is about half used