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Cornie keg to force carb is probably your best option given your time scale, some form of nutrients added and perhaps something like Nottingham yeast at a fairly high temp north of 21c should see it ferment out very quickly giving it a week or so to clear.

If the reading is. 990 then it should be done, if it's .998 then it has a bit to go, some gas could be releasing but at a bubble every 3 seconds it would be rare without some form of agitation. Double check the reading in a trial jar sample that is degassed with two hydrometers.

Lol there is no one like the Woolf for getting things cleaned up after something unexpectedly goes of.

You will need to make sure your connections and wiring is suitable for a 4.5kw heater, an element of that rating will draw upwards of 20amps, a 13 amp plug and socket will not cut it.

23l choc stout 1834.5l

Essex flanges where always expensive, you can get basic solder in brass type which are fine if it's copper that you want to use it on, with a steel or aluminium keg you would need to use some other means to attach other than solder and would need someone with welding gear and the know-how to do...

I've since tried this out and it does work well, the odd bag did let air back in but I found placing it inside a larger bag and sealing it cured the problem, at the time I did buy a spare pack of bags which had 2 different sizes.

It does no harm to rack into your bottling bucket a few hours before bottling, this will allow time for any crud that does transfer to settle out. You can be washing, sterilising the bottles during this time.

Taken from "Billy Austin" Who are you to say for sure...

Aye that's pretty much the same thing only that one doesn't have an outdoor remote transmitter with it, which would mean you having to go to the shed and look at it, unless you keep your beer out there :beer6:

Assuming a 3kw element being used for boiling for 1 hour your electric cost is only going to be in the region of 60p, 60p won't buy you that many extra hops and even with extra hops you will still need to boil for a min of 30 mins. I wouldn't be so worried about DMS unless mashing a pilsner...

It's a small hand held silvercrest one, it runs of mains adaptor or 6 aa batteries that come with it, I haven't used it yet but it looks ideal for sealing up hop pellets, I tend to buy 400-500g bags of pellets so I need to seal them up again for multiple uses. I doubt that these would be...

If anyone is looking for a small basic Vacumn machine that comes with bags Lidl have them for 13 quid, ideal for hop pellets etc.

I would use either geterbrewed or homebrewcompany UK or IE. For a brewing bucket all you need is any large foodsafe plastic bucket that has a lid, chipshops are a good source for these as they buy in large tubs of powdered sauces and mayo etc. A mixing paddle is any long handled spoon, a...

Cream Ale 24 litres Forum total 401.4

My last brew was a cream ale, 4.5kg of MO pale ale, .5kg flaked corn, .2kg flaked barley .1kg torrified wheat, calculator gave me an estimate of 1.050 - 1.012 (allowing for 2l of deadspace loss) Actual readings where 1.055 - 1.011 with an apparent attenuation of 79% and a brewhouse efficiency...

Different strength/types of beer will condition at different times, conditioning is the time taken for the beer to reach its peak taste/flavour, one rule of thumb is that the higher the ABV then the longer the conditioning time that should be allowed for. You could just keg and carb it the...

It will depend if you allow some conditioning to occur in the FV before you rack to the keg, but if the beer is in a drinkable state when you keg allow 3-5 days for force carbing.

If IRC the recommended gap is around 1.2-1.4mm, .9mm is on the fine side, fairly sure the exact size is up on the GF site. The recirc pipe shouldn't be pushing on the top plate with any force, just let it bend without kinking and lie on the top of the plate. There are several reasons I don't...

Is your grain crush at the optimal setting for the GF? When you fill the grain basket it's best to start with any coarse grains first, things like flaked barley act like a large filter, gradually work up to the finer grains last like rye, do stir well as you add but try to leave the bottom...