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looks cracking , can you give us more details on the taste and flavours you're getting and your thoughts like needs more ... better if ... :)

Maybe yeast your smelling

Sulpher smells are common with lager yeast , don't bottle until It's gone otherwise it'll take longer to go from beer

People have different levels of perception , some will notice certain flavours other may not . If you like just about all foods and drink you may have a lower perception , if you are a bit fussy at times and really enjoy certain tastes while dislike others strongly then you may have a high...

Oh yeah never noticed , i would of thought you was more like a younger bloke on the right :lol: :tongue:

Any of them you Hawks ? I would get a swimmers nose clip , a mask is a pain to wear .

If your mate can get enough to make a solid base then use em ( to stop mice and rats ) or just fill in gaps with soil and whack it down . Otherwise 2 bags of cement and a ton of concreting sand should only cost around £50 or less plus a tenner for delivery and of course you've got to mix it ( 1...

Never squeeze bags as you are releasing tannins which will give astringency tastes , Let the bag drip by leaving it for a bit or moving it into another container (and collect wort later) .

chuck it all in :thumb:

Lol yeah i think it's the very same , I must admit i'm in Bigjims72 way of thinking . I think unions were very useful once but also sometimes go too far but whatever they do I'm selfemployed and have to work hard with or without a union . Having said that , R.I.P Bob Crow watched him many a time...

I would just give it time , lager yeast is the better choice and often used in ales to bottle condition so would be better than ale yeast .

good question , the last 1 I brewed I didn't add any extra but it may take some time to carbonate (3 to 4 weeks) .

When it gets to around 1018 transfer it to a clean fv ready for the lager stage . Be careful about splashing . Continue with fermenting at temp for a day or 2 then move temp up to 18c for a few days to get final gravity . When complete over a few days drop the temp to 2c if possible for 4 to 6...

If you want to cool it and can then 10c is the ideal temp for a hefe :thumb:

Even though you've used 2 packets it'll probably still be a slow starter and lager looks like little is going on when brewed most of the time ( i would expect 2 days before seeing a head). Good luck :thumb:

You got me there , was around 60 euro from german ebay but i've just remembered they no longer sell to uk :( but a few still sell em here ( but for more cash ) http://www.ebay.de/itm/Edelstahl-Thermo ... 0777570033

Hi , your pot for boiling sounds ideal and the volume is good too for a 23 litre batch as you end up with boiling around 30/33 litres . The boiler would be good for a HLT but not so much for a mash tun unless you use a grain bag , and It would be difficult to get correct temps with It I would...

gypsum is calcium sulphate (I think) . 125 ppm calcium may be what many would recommend , I think a little too much for a lighter ale . It's never an easy answer , all depends on lots of things and what you want out of it . When you look for the ideal water profile for brewing it can vary from...

I may of been wrong but i doubt it's knackered . There are a few on here that know their chemicals so hopefully will help better .

You don't need to sterilise the wort chiller , just give it a clean in the sink with fairly liquid etc and add at 15 mins left of boil . The boil will sterilise it and the wash will be enough to clean it . Shiny washed is better as it comes out shiny from boil and the brown crap ( oxidization...