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I’ve used the ice block method before. It works well once you’ve learnt to judge (calculate? Pfffft) how much ice to add to hit the right temp. I use ‘Lock and Lock’ tubs that have been Starsan’d. You could use ice cube bags but you wouldn’t be able to sanitise them (probably minimal risk, but...

Rinsed well to remove all sediment, dry upside down until completely dry. Capped with cling film or plastic clip-on caps and stored in lidded boxes in the shed. On bottling day, they get rinsed out again (if smelling stale, otherwise not), then sprayed with Starsan.

That’s not really a mash, is it? No diastatic value left in those malts so it’s basically a steep. I thought steeping oats was advised against as it could lead to clarity (not a problem in a stout) and stabilisation issues due to the starch floating about? If not, I stand (and then fall over)...

Ah, I see. You’d steep the hops in the wort before you dilute it to fermenting volume. That would work, but you’d need to have a way of taking the hops out again. Can’t strain if you’ve already poured into the FV, so use a mesh bag?

With a kit like this the wort never gets close to 80C. You could heat a small amount of the diluted wort to do a hop steep, but I don’t see why you wouldn’t just make a hop tea and put that into the wort.

It doesn’t. It converts the sugar in a chemical reaction. Invertase does a similar job in a different way.

Read this thread... https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/kit-tweaking-how-to-customise-and-improve-upon-a-basic-kit.69567/

Lob in some Target as well and you’ve got the hop bill for Fullers ESB. Mmmm, ESB...

Isn’tt 40 a bit warm for Hornindal? Thought it was 30-35 recommended. 40 is Voss territory,

I don’t see why you would boil bottled water. If it’s a newly opened bottle it should be fine to bung in as is. Tap water is also fine as long as it’s not sat in a hot water tank (I have a combo boiler).

The all-grain police will be on to me in a flash, so I’ll only say this once... If you’ve not hit your efficiency targets or have overdiluted you can always *whispers* add some malt extract.

Modelling clay.

Make a hop tea and see if it smells/tastes of the plastic. Hopefully they won’t have absorbed the aroma.

Can’t remember where I got it from, but BrewUK, Brewstore and MaltMiller all the same price. Admittedly I did get it as part of a larger order so P&P was free.

He isn’t much cheaper than elsewhere - I only paid £8 for my Kveik compared to his £7. Given his stock spoilage will be zero, it’s a shame he’s not a bit more generous with the pack size. :)

I only use VWP for cleaning when needed and use Starsan for sterilising. I make the Starsan solution up with Tesco Ashbeck water (my tap water is very hard). It seems to keep indefinitely. I occasionally test with a litmus paper but it’s always acidic enough (pH needs to be under 3). It might...

Can’t you get around this by putting some of the extract in as a late addition? Lower gravity boils get more IBUs from the hops. Brewers Friend let’s you set the boil volume separate to the fermenter volume so you can work out your hop bill to hit a desired IBU.

What temp did you mash at? You Beers yeasts generally can’t turn lactose into alcohol. This is why it leaves sweetness unlike other sugars, and also why it leaves the gravity higher.

Omega labs isolate says 75-82% I’ve had 78% and 79% so far from OGs of 1.049 and 1.062.

The appeal for me is bottom cropping. Top cropping my hornindal isn’t always 100% effective as you have to watch it like a hawk to catch peak krausen.